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Drawer *slightly* too wide for frame -- Fix?

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Forum topic by Jakl posted 09-06-2016 12:45 PM 1511 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jakl

7 posts in 800 days


09-06-2016 12:45 PM

Building a changing table for my daughter that is on the way and got mostly done with the project. I measured the interior width incorrectly and each of my drawers are about 3/32 too wide for the opening. I am planning on using full-length soft close drawer slides on this piece so I need 1/2” on each side for the slides to fit.

The sides of the drawers are 1×8 dimensional pine.

I have a 6” jointer but there is a roll pin that is for the guard cover that prevents me from putting this whole piece through.

I had considered the following:
Tall router bit on my router table and adjust the fence to take 1/32 off at a time. Problem is the slides are 1.5” tall and the tallest bit I have is a pattern bit and even with the bearings removed it is only 1.25”.

or

Clamp the drawer (its roughly 18×37”) in my cross cut sled (just barely fits) and take off a little at a time on the table saw.

Are there any other options I am not considering? I do not own a shoulder plane, but not sure that would be well suited to a 1.5” wide cut path anyway.

Here is a picture of the rough layout of how the project looks. Its not constructed EXACTLY like this but for the considerations on drawer mounting the picture accurately portrays how it will go.


10 replies so far

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1414 posts in 1902 days


#1 posted 09-06-2016 12:56 PM

Set your table saw fence at .045”, raise the blade to 1 1/2”+, and run it through both sides. Done. Reinstall the slides, and you’re in business again….........Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7739 posts in 2179 days


#2 posted 09-06-2016 01:08 PM

If all you need is clearance for the slides, how bout use a router and cut a channel on each side of the drawer for the slides to sit in? Rout the area I show in red on both sides.
.
.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2789 posts in 2469 days


#3 posted 09-06-2016 01:09 PM

What that man said – you only need to remove material where the slides go, not the entire side of the box.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7739 posts in 2179 days


#4 posted 09-06-2016 01:09 PM

Oh and WELCOME to LJs !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

6593 posts in 1311 days


#5 posted 09-06-2016 01:11 PM

Yep, Joe hit the nail on the head. Just route a 3/32” deep rabbet for the drawer slides.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5783 posts in 2986 days


#6 posted 09-06-2016 04:42 PM

Am I missing something here? Hand plane?

Depending on the drawer joinery, you can get some pretty nasty tearout making this cut on a jointer.
The traditional way to tune drawer fit is with a hand plane. I am a power tool guy through and through, but this is one task I thoroughly enjoy picking up a low angle block plane. If you don’t have one, invest in one now. You will reach for it on countless occasions.

Certainly the tablesaw (sacrificial fence) or router could get the job done too.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

6593 posts in 1311 days


#7 posted 09-06-2016 06:01 PM

I generally agree with Willie on tuning fit with a block plane. But, 3/32 might be a bit more material than I’d want to remove with one. Would certainly do the job though.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Still_Cuttin_Twice's profile

Still_Cuttin_Twice

1 post in 169 days


#8 posted 05-30-2018 05:04 PM

I know this is old, but I found myself here looking for a solution to the same problem and figured I’d add my two cents.

@JoeinGA’s solution worked for me with one exception… I had to take out a little extra wood above and below the drawer slide so that the sides of the cabinet would clear the part of the slide that was mounted in the cabinet (as it is slightly wider than the male end).

Thanks all!

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

242 posts in 1907 days


#9 posted 05-31-2018 01:45 PM



If all you need is clearance for the slides, how bout use a router and cut a channel on each side of the drawer for the slides to sit in? Rout the area I show in red on both sides.
.
.

- JoeinGa

I’m a bit ashamed to admit that I’ve done this many more times than I should have had to. But I blame it on the fact that I’m a cheap bastard and buy the cheapest plywood possible for shop furniture. I can usually get it pretty straight, but sometimes the bow is just too much and the drawer sticks.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View Steve's profile

Steve

663 posts in 755 days


#10 posted 06-04-2018 12:54 PM


If all you need is clearance for the slides, how bout use a router and cut a channel on each side of the drawer for the slides to sit in? Rout the area I show in red on both sides.
.
.

- JoeinGa

I m a bit ashamed to admit that I ve done this many more times than I should have had to. But I blame it on the fact that I m a cheap bastard and buy the cheapest plywood possible for shop furniture. I can usually get it pretty straight, but sometimes the bow is just too much and the drawer sticks.

- Tony1212

I wouldn’t be too ashamed to admit to cutting out a groove for the slides. It’s oftentimes a way to squeeze just a little bit more storage out of each drawer.

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