steel scrapers

You can buy them! They are usually called cabinet scrapers and can be purchased many places. For instance, here is a set from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1081

However, you should be aware that they are tricky to sharpen properly to get a “hook” on the scraper. You generally need a file, burnisher, and some sort of sharpening stones to do the sharpening job.

-- Roger - Havertown, Pennsylvania

i just bought the same set as in rjacks link at woodcraft i paid about 2 bucks more than rockler

People use to make scrapers out of worn out hand saw blades. Just file the edges straight with a bastard file, then get rid of the file marks with a sharpening stone until it is smooth, then put a tiny bit of oil on it and use a harder steel rod or a side of a chisel to burnish a hook on it. Roger is right, it is tricky to put a hook on it, so I got the Veritas Burnisher Jig that sets the angle for me. I hand sharpen my chisels, but I really need help setting the hook on a scraper.
The Jig allows me to make one side with an aggressive hook to remove glue and raised grains and a less aggressive hook on the other side to use between coats of finish.

-- Thuan

KB I have a set of cabinet scrapers and I love them! I learned how to use them before I learned to use a hand plane. I actually prefer to use the scrapers. As rjack said it is hard to get a hook doing it free hand. Below are some links to products that will help you.

I own a set of Lee Valley scrapers. I also have the Lee Valley jointer/edger and the Variable Angle Burnisher. These two tools have made it a no brainer for me when sharpening my scrapers. I also have the Scraper Holder and the Scraper Case. By the way, they sell a set containing all of the above, except the case, with a 20% discount.

-- Owen Johnson - aka IowaWoodcrafter

I finally got great results out of my scrapers – for fine work…

Even though I was honing up to 6000 (waterstones) on the sides and edges of my scrapers, I was burnishing with a HSS round stock turning gouge that seemed pretty hard and smooth to me…(I’ve been too cheap to by a “real” burnisher).

Well, it had been tearing the softer steel that I had honed fine, and resulted in a scrappy burnished hook. It worked great, but was about as rough as if I had burnished following the file.

I’ve since corrected this by buying and using a burnishing rod, which is polished and should be maintained polished. A little camelia oil and the polished burnisher on my newly honed scrapers and wowzers…gossamer shavings, around .001”

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Scrapers will become indispensable to you once you get the hang of sharpening.

We use cheap paint scrapers for glue so we don’t waste our good cabinet scrapers edge. That roll on the edge will get clogged real quick with glue. Even totally dry glue. It’s that almost invisible roll that does the job.

The cheap scrapers are not as sharpe and don’t rely on the rolled edge, so, not as agressive. Be careful using cabinet scrapers. You’ll be amazed at how much material they’ll remove.

When you see the shavings come off and the silky smooth surface they leave behind, you’ll wonder why you didn’t get some along time ago. After having used scrapers, I pretty much prefer scraped to sandpaper surfaces.

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist

Scrapers are almost like a “best kept secret” type thing. They are almost lost in the world of power tools. It is really a shame, they are cheap and easy to use. Plus it is almost impossible to screw-up anything with one. Worst-case is that it gets dull and quits working….still no mistakes. A few quick lessons and sharpening tips and you are ready to go. Practice and continued use will make both easier. I have several, different sizes, shapes and thicknesses. I use a thicker, stiffer one for glue-line scraping. Thinner models bend easier, I use them for more precise work, such as flushing hardwood edges on plywood surfaces, like shelves.
As you use one more and more, you will find that having more than one is beneficial. With longer sessions it will get hot in your hands, just switch to another.

Lee Jesberger left us with a good tip; use a magnetic business card on the scraper to eliminate “Hot Thumbs”.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

i’ve been using them for a couple of years, it really helps figured wood. when i bought them i got everything that was suggested to put the bur on right. Then i watchd Tage Frid do it with a a mill file, sharpening stone and the back of a chisel instead of a burnisher. You don’t have to refile evertime you sharpen, just burnish. And for a burnisher you only need steel that is harder than the scraper. And they are like anything else, you get what you pay for. my first scraper was a cheaper one and won’t hold a bur. my one is alot better and stays sharper longer.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

Here’s a little Scraper Video I made for you.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.blakeweber.us

Are there any video podcasts or segments anywhere that show the process of sharpening these bad boys?

-- Living on the square...

The Wood Whisperer created a free online video about scraper sharpening:

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-14-barely-scraping-by/

I encourage you to watch all of his videos!

-- Roger - Havertown, Pennsylvania

Here’s another good one:

by Brian Boggs

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

I’ve used a valve from a large truck. The valve stem is super hard and polished from years of up and down use.

I picked mine up walking through a junk yard, but you might be able to pick one up from a truck repair shop for free. The large valve portion gives you a great hand hold.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †