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Forum topic by doninvegas posted 06-10-2010 08:58 PM 969 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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doninvegas

334 posts in 2372 days


06-10-2010 08:58 PM

Hello LJ’s.
I’ve been following this site for a long time and finally bit the bullet and joined up. So, I’d thought I’d ask you all something I have been wondering about. I got some really nice Oregon broad leaf maple and I’m going to makes some jewelry boxes. I got the wood 4/4 rough. After milling it 4 square it’s now down to between 5 and 7/8” thick. The boxes are going to be made out of 1/2” stock so the question is do I plane in down to 1/2 or re-saw it to 7/16 and plane it to 1/2”?
Thanks all,
Don

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."


9 replies so far

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CharlesNeil

1610 posts in 3335 days


#1 posted 06-10-2010 09:06 PM

big leaf maple , I would let it sit where its at and acclimate, for a couple of weeks, then plane it to final size just before you use it, maple of any sort like’s to move alot, if you re saw it, what you will save is not much and you will probably be glad you didnt, re sawing opens up a diverse moisture issue, meaning it will try to cup to the freshly sawn side, because its wetter on the inside than the outside, even if its kiln dried, allowing it to acclimate at the thicker size will allow it to further dry now that its opened up, so when you are ready to use it, if it moves any as it acclimates, you will be sure to have enough to get your material and be able to further process it flat if need be.

let it dry a while

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3041 days


#2 posted 06-10-2010 09:42 PM

What charles said

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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doninvegas

334 posts in 2372 days


#3 posted 06-10-2010 09:51 PM

Thanks, Charles. I was kinda leaning that way. It is kiln tried to 8% but here in Vegas this time of year it’s not unheard of to go as low as 2% humidity. I’m finishing up a refinish job so it will be a couple of weeks until I use the maple. I also have some salted Alder. Should I do the same with it?

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

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CharlesNeil

1610 posts in 3335 days


#4 posted 06-10-2010 10:55 PM

yep, this is the basis for stabilizing all woods… its a basic..

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doninvegas

334 posts in 2372 days


#5 posted 06-11-2010 01:54 AM

That’s something you can talk about on your new show for new woodworkers.
Thanks.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1310 posts in 2450 days


#6 posted 06-11-2010 04:42 AM

This is making me feel a bit better about feeling FRIGHTFULLY guilty when I plane down my 4/4 (all the lumber I get is rough 4/4) to 1/2. Because boy, do I feel guilty about it.

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5314 posts in 3177 days


#7 posted 06-27-2010 04:37 AM

I want to see you “re-saw it to 7/16 and plane it to 1/2” ;-) Then I want to buy the plane that can add a 16th!

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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doninvegas

334 posts in 2372 days


#8 posted 06-27-2010 06:19 PM

Gee, I thought everyone had a planer that added wood. I got mine on sale at HF…LOL

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View HallTree's profile

HallTree

5663 posts in 3232 days


#9 posted 06-27-2010 08:28 PM

Putting the question of the size aside, I am thinking: if a board is planed on both sides and then, at the same time, resawed would it then dry out the same on both sides?

-- "Hold on to instruction, do not let it go; guard it well, for it is your life" Solomon

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