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Ripping a 2x4 down to roughly a 2x3??

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Forum topic by siouxdawgs0409 posted 1534 days ago 5929 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1721 days


1534 days ago

Will this work? It seems that I have tried this before and it seems me saw does not like it. I am curious if it is my technique or if it is the wood or perhaps the blade?

My blade is sharp and the saw is tuned straight. But when I start to cut it seems the blade becomes “dull” and the board wants to ride over the top of the blade. My blade a Diablo 40 tooth. I have noticed that it does this same thing with wood bought from home depot. The blade works excellent with wood purchased from a reputable lumber supply of hardwoods. Would a rip blade help to cut the 2×4?

I am just looking to creat a flat edge to mount a piece to the top of it. So I want to rip about a 1/2 off.


22 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112011 posts in 2204 days


#1 posted 1534 days ago

If your blade is sharp and clean and you have a splitter it should work fine. If you don’t have a splitter you can use some wood wedges to keep the wood from pinching the blade.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15684 posts in 2845 days


#2 posted 1534 days ago

I think Jim has identified the problem. It sounds like the cut piece is closing up on the blade. I don’t rip anything without a splitter of some sort installed.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1637 days


#3 posted 1534 days ago

If the blade is sharp, this shouldn’t be a problem. Is this thicker than the wood you usually cut? If your saw is smaller and the blade is slightly dull, you might be encountering trouble even though ripping 1” hardwood goes ok.

Is the bottom of the 2×4 able to lay flat on the saw table? It might be rocking to one side if it’s not flat.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View rance's profile

rance

4129 posts in 1787 days


#4 posted 1534 days ago

The most valuable use of a splitter is when ripping 2×4’s or 2×6’s IMO. They’ve tried to bind on the blade more than anything I’ve run through a saw. They are just more unstable than anything.

That being said, I’d also raise your blade a bit. Of course there is a safety compromise with more blade showing above the board so take note of that.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View siouxdawgs0409's profile

siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1721 days


#5 posted 1534 days ago

I do have a splitter. Not thicker than what I have cut before. Might be the flat against the table. as we all know 2×4 are not the flatest and truest of lumber. My sae should be capable, it is ts3650.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3371 posts in 1598 days


#6 posted 1534 days ago

The workbench book by Chris Schwartz (spelling?) pointed out he buys 2×12 x 16’ boards and rips them into 2×3 or 2×4 or 2×6 or whatever he needs because they are always better grade of lumber with almost no knots. I went to Lowes and Home Depot and checked this out. He was exactly correct. I was going to buy much more expensive yellow poplar to glue up my bench legs from, but now I am thinking I might use ripped 2×12 SYP.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Nomad62's profile

Nomad62

706 posts in 1585 days


#7 posted 1534 days ago

2×4’s and the like are super-fast kiln dried, and are rarely flat and straight. I have found that cutting them along the length is best done after a good jointing job along the bottom and the fence side. I do it with my Shop Smith, so I wouldn’t think an ultra saw would be necessary.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View MrsN's profile

MrsN

939 posts in 2153 days


#8 posted 1534 days ago

as others have said, 2×4’s are rarely straight or true anywhere on the board. They also tend to have a lot of internal stress, the cut will try to close up on the blade in almost every cut you make. I once cut about 1/2 inch off a 2×4 and the little piece twisted into a corkscrew.
Look for the straightest board you can find, and you may even consider planing or sanding the board so it has a true surface.

-- ----- www.KNWoodworking.com ----- --

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 1897 days


#9 posted 1534 days ago

I usually rip all construction grade lumber on my Bosch job saw. I won’t use my TS with a WWII on it as the pitch and roll of doug fir (most 2X4’s are made of this) causes the blade to get clogged and to heat. It is funny to say as this wood is not the densest or hardest that I cut…..but it seems to be the messiest and contains a LOT of pitch. I would recommend a Dewalt 20 tooth or a Diablo rip blade 20t….those are what I use on my job saw…and it gets the job done everytime.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View rockom's profile

rockom

134 posts in 2498 days


#10 posted 1534 days ago

Rip both sides….

I’m about read to start a project using dimensional lumber. The plans recommend ripping 1/8” of one edge, and then run that cut edge against the fence when ripping to your final width. This way you have a full flat edge against the fence when you’re removing more than 1/8” off the other side.

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL -<

View kennyd's profile

kennyd

99 posts in 1627 days


#11 posted 1534 days ago

If the saw blade is lifting the work piece up clamp a feather board to your fence to hold it down. In addition, I’ve found that using a standard kerf blade, not a thin kerf blade helps a lot to reduce binding when cutting 2x materials.

Good luck and be careful!

-- Kenny... The man who needs a tool he doesn't have is already paying for it.

View tommyd's profile

tommyd

77 posts in 1759 days


#12 posted 1534 days ago

I have ripped several with no problems .just go slow and make sure you are using a splitter and even than it might be binding on the splitter if so but a wood wedge on back side of splitter into the ripped portion of the 2×4 to keep it from binding.

-- Life is too short for negative drama & petty things. So laugh insanely, love truly and forgive quickly!  http://tomswoodshop.etsy.com

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1850 posts in 2188 days


#13 posted 1533 days ago

I start at the store by selecting 2×4’s that are quarter cut (vertical rings) with no twist or bowing.

Then I surface plane them down to 1.25 inches thick which removes most of the rounded corners. After that I rip 1/8 inch off one side, followed by 1/8 inch off the other ending up with a 1.25×3.25 board. By ripping only what is actually only the thickness of the blade you don’t have any problems with binding. (I also use a feather board to keep the stock tight against the fence.)

If there is a need for other widths, for example 2 inches, I’d start with a 2×6 or 2×12 as has already been mentioned – also preselecting to only get boards that are quarter sawn.

-- Joe

View poopiekat's profile

poopiekat

3585 posts in 2361 days


#14 posted 1533 days ago

Why turn a $2.40 board into a $1.75 board?

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1695 days


#15 posted 1533 days ago

How high do you set your blade for these cuts? I’ve noticed that I sometimes get “climbing” unless I’m using a rip blade (23 teeth), and set the blade height so the gullets clear the board.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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