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Need to find knot filler

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Forum topic by JJsig posted 08-31-2016 11:26 AM 391 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JJsig

5 posts in 99 days


08-31-2016 11:26 AM

Topic tags/keywords: red wood tung oil knot filler

So I am on my first big project (a 9×4 red wood table) and I got ahead of my self and tung oiled the surface before filling the knots. I know I can put a color in them with epoxy but I kinda want to keep them clear but the tung oil is making it a white color, I got a hold of smooth on today and they told me to try their epoxacast 690 but they are not sure if it would work. I have a lot of scrape piece I am going to experiment with before doing it on the table. I thought about maybe putting paint thinner in the knots and trying to get some of the tung oil out and letting it dry out really well, or trying to make a mold with Vaseline or wax paper to Make a plug for them. I guess the question is has anyone used this product or know of something that would work. Any advice would be very much appreciated


11 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2145 posts in 1638 days


#1 posted 08-31-2016 03:56 PM

Epoxy will work very well. You can try to match the color with pigment in the epoxy or leave it clear.
Seal the bottom side very well. Epoxy will find the smallest hole and leak out..

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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JJsig

5 posts in 99 days


#2 posted 08-31-2016 04:53 PM

Ok, which one should I try to used I tried gorilla, loc tite and jb weld and they all tuned white or are we talking about the 690 for this adventure? Just wondering like I said this is my first big project and I got a lot to learn for more.

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Quikenuff

30 posts in 334 days


#3 posted 08-31-2016 06:10 PM

I’m a fan of West Systems epoxy. Recently ran out and bought TotalBoat because the concept is the same but a little cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Epoxy-Gallon-Slow-Hardener/dp/B00HR8515C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472666317&sr=8-1&keywords=totalboat

A quart lasted me years or knot and crack filling. I use the slow cure.

If it were me, I’d let the Tung oil cure for a week or two then fill with epoxy. if the cracks and knots are still fairly tight there is little risk of the knot falling out even if the epoxy doesn’t “adhere” to the insides of the cracks/knots.

As Bruce mentioned, blue tape on the underside will suffice for a barrier against leak through.

Plane, scrape, sand off the excess epoxy after cured, but don’t wait to long, or it will get really hard and be difficult to plane. reapply finish and you are done.

Quik

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1667 posts in 2089 days


#4 posted 08-31-2016 06:24 PM

Have you considered some inlay shapes to cover the top side? Stars or hearts or bowties whatever. Come up with a patterns route or chisel out a recess and inlay. You would at least have some unspoiled wood to work with.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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JayT

4783 posts in 1676 days


#5 posted 08-31-2016 06:29 PM


Ok, which one should I try to used I tried gorilla, loc tite and jb weld and they all tuned white or are we talking about the 690 for this adventure?

- JJsig

Something like West Systems, as mentioned above, would probably be best, but I would never go through that much to justify the purchase. I’ve had very good luck with Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy from the hardware store. It cures pretty clear and is easy to tint, if you want to go that route. Make sure to get the longer cure time, not the 5 minute stuff.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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JJsig

5 posts in 99 days


#6 posted 08-31-2016 07:11 PM

Yeah I saw and read about west system but didn’t want to spend that much if it had the same issues, but I will let it cure for a while and try Devon and maybe even west woods if the Devon turns white. As for the inlays I can get a hold of some old 50 cent pieces and I was going to do that but the fiancĂ©e said no and let’s face it, it’s her table

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MT_Stringer

2853 posts in 2696 days


#7 posted 09-01-2016 01:36 AM

I’ve used the 5 minute epoxy sold at the big box stores. It says “Clear” and it dries clear. I don’t understand the white color you are talking about.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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JJsig

5 posts in 99 days


#8 posted 09-01-2016 02:02 AM

I was told it’s because I put the tung oil first and that’s why it is turning white, but I did use it on one spot and it is clear and looks nice, so yeah I’m not sure either. Using small amounts stirring it gently for the air bubbles and letting it cure completely before adding more, don’t think I’m doing anything wrong it’s just coming out white when it cures

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4169 posts in 3207 days


#9 posted 09-01-2016 02:43 PM

Agree – the 5 minute is not the way to go.

Go to a hobby store… or just Hobby Lobby – and they will have 15 and 30 minute epoxy.

and i hav used it to fix pieces finished with Waterlox – which is Tung oil base.. never seen this

If you have the stuff where one part/tube is Blue… that will never work

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2145 posts in 1638 days


#10 posted 09-01-2016 04:36 PM

For filling knots cracks etc. you need to use the pour on finsh type epoxies. These generally take 12 to 24 hours to cure and slow into all the crevices and cracks. The 5, 15 and 30 minute epoxies are formulated to hold and adhere. Envirotex is one type you can get at your local hobby shop, System 3 is another that would work well. Epoxy fishing rod thread finish works well also. The 15 and 30 minute epoxies will work but generally are thick and don’t flow as well so you don’t get the fill you need before they start to set up.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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JJsig

5 posts in 99 days


#11 posted 09-01-2016 04:46 PM

Ok I will try that thank you everyone for the help

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