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side drawer slide shims

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Forum topic by PaulHWood posted 08-30-2016 02:43 PM 351 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PaulHWood

337 posts in 1719 days


08-30-2016 02:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: drawer slides shim

What is a good shim material for side drawer slides. Apparently I have manufactured 4 of my 24 drawers in a sop storage case a little out of tolerance and need to shim under the slide.

I was thinking veneer edging as I want it to be full length of the slide. Any other ideas.

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice


11 replies so far

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1775 days


#1 posted 08-30-2016 05:08 PM

It would help to know what kind of slide and how much you think you have to shim it.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View jayseedub's profile

jayseedub

72 posts in 1431 days


#2 posted 08-30-2016 05:17 PM

Bandsawn shim
Cardboard from soda 12-pack
Aluminum can
Handplane shavings
Polycarbonate sheeting
Flat-head screws along the length, adjustable in/out to amount needed (creative, huh!?)

View PaulHWood's profile

PaulHWood

337 posts in 1719 days


#3 posted 08-30-2016 05:22 PM

KV TT100 Economy 100 lb Full Extension Drawer Slide by Tru Trac (Woodworkers Hardware)

a piece of corrugated cardboard worked so we are talking 1/16” or so. Drawers work, but when fully extended, they lack contact on one side so you could potential twist them. alignment is good and when shimmed with the cardboard (not ideal) solved the problem.

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1817 days


#4 posted 08-30-2016 06:52 PM

Run some 1/16” strips off on the table saw.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Cooler's profile

Cooler

277 posts in 309 days


#5 posted 08-30-2016 07:45 PM

Go to Starbucks and ask them to save a few of the spent gift cards. They don’t absorb water and are easy to drill and cut. And they are free—well you will probably end up buying a cup of coffee—so not exactly free.

-- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process.

View joek30296's profile

joek30296

47 posts in 2333 days


#6 posted 08-30-2016 08:05 PM

Plastic laminate (formica) is about 1/16”. I have used it in the past for exactly the same reason you need to.
It won’t compress and it’s waterproof.
Just my 2 cents

-- "There are two theories to arguing with a woman....neither of them work"

View PaulHWood's profile

PaulHWood

337 posts in 1719 days


#7 posted 08-31-2016 04:22 PM

thanks, good ideas all.

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

View PaulHWood's profile

PaulHWood

337 posts in 1719 days


#8 posted 08-31-2016 04:23 PM

Flat-head screws along the length, adjustable in/out to amount needed (creative, huh!?)

yes actually very creative

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

View Cooler's profile

Cooler

277 posts in 309 days


#9 posted 08-31-2016 04:32 PM

If you only need a few thousandths of an inch then iron-on white edge banding would work. You can cut it with a scissors and iron it on until the screws are in place. If you need more thickness you can apply to both sides of the box. I don’t know about stacking the plastic stuff, but the birch or red oak stuff that they sell at the big box stores can be stacked.

I usually make my drawers at the high side of the dimensions. So I am sometimes a bit tight but never a little loose.

If it is too snug, I simply run the drawer through on my table saw with the blade set to the hardware height. I can set the blade to take as little as 1/64” of an inch.

If the piece is way oversize, which has not happened yet, I would take a little off both sides. I use a rip blade and it makes a very clean cut. I use solid wood for my drawer boxes and this would not work for plywood boxes.

-- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#10 posted 08-31-2016 04:33 PM

I’ve used most of the stuff listed above, but mostly it’s the veneer edging that solves the problem for me.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View jbay's profile

jbay

817 posts in 365 days


#11 posted 08-31-2016 04:38 PM

Creative, but I would rather have a flat pc of laminate backing the whole width of the guide instead of a screw head sticking out.
I actually take laminate and make a cut for the screw so that I can place the shim wherever a screw is and the guide will suck flat to the wall without tweaking the guide member.

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

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