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Forum topic by ki7hy posted 08-28-2016 12:17 AM 476 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


08-28-2016 12:17 AM

Hey all, I just picked up my first chuck. I noticed the power grip jaws would be awesome for what I want to do but then I read the fine print and was said they aren’t compatible with the G3. So I have the 50mm jaws, the 25mm jaws, the 25mm pin jaws, worn screw, and small cole….these all came in a package at woodcraft for $150 today.

My lathe can handle up to 14” outside diameter but these jaws can only do 12” which is fine but it would be cool to get finished size of 12” not starting size, also it would be great to be able to do deeper bowls as well. I believe the 50mm jaws can only handle 4” which I would imagine is the starting dearth so it would be pretty shallow in the end. The 50mm jaws seem so small compared to what I see in the videos but a lot of the videos are hard to determine exact size, everything seems to look bigger.

So help a noobie out please and fill me in on this chuck some more. Trying to learn and I can’t seem to find definitive answers to things specific for this size chuck.

Thanks in advance.


12 replies so far

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

4997 posts in 3127 days


#1 posted 08-28-2016 01:43 AM

You can do a 12” diameter bowl with 50mm jaws (I have done it several times) ... just take it easy and use your tailstock for support as much as possible.

According to Nova’s website. NOVA PowerGrip Jaw Set ”... is compatible across all NOVA Chucks and accessories.”

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


#2 posted 08-28-2016 01:51 AM

Thanks Gerry. Do you start with a 12” diameter or something larger down to 12? Also the Amazon listing says it’s not compatible which is why I am confused I guess.

I’m a rookie. I appreciate all the help I can get.

View LeeMills's profile

LeeMills

271 posts in 765 days


#3 posted 08-28-2016 01:54 AM

Good news… That was a nice price for the set.
Bad news…. The 25mm and the pin jaws are the exact same as regards a spigot and tenon.
Good news… the Pin Jaws are one of my go-to for rough turning. Works like a pin chuck.
Bad News… (IMHO) I have the mini cole jaws and after about 4 years have never even unwrapped them.
Good news… you may be able to sell your cole jaws and 25mm jaws for enough to buy the 100mm jaws.
If you want to do deep hollow forms then the Powergips ( and SN2) will be needed. For smaller the 35mm spigot jaws are nice. Yep, they do have 45mm spigot jaws but they are measured for the interior, only 1mm difference in your 50mm bowl jaws which are measured from the outside.
Not sure how deep you want your bowls and suggest a peak in your cupboard. Not may bowls are over 4” deep except for larger mixing/dough bowls.
I have four G3’s and use them more than my SN’s and SN2’s.

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

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LeeMills

271 posts in 765 days


#4 posted 08-28-2016 02:11 AM



According to Nova s website. NOVA PowerGrip Jaw Set ”... is compatible across all NOVA Chucks and accessories.”
- TheDane

A bit of a misnomer… the jaws will fit all chucks but not all chuck are suitable for all jaws.
With the G3 you can use jaws up to 100mm. Just not the 100mm Powergrips and the 130mm.
The power grips will even fit the Precision Mini due to screw location.
Here is a chart of recommended jaws. The G3 is 3+ lbs and the SN2 is 5+ lbs so the difference is in the ability of the chuck to handle the stress not whether the jaws will mount on the chuck or not.
I did get a warning about “expired certificate” from this link…. guess they haven’t updated it.
https://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Jaw_Sets/downloads/Min-Max%20Ranges%20Jaw%20Table%20(mm)Sep06.pdf

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

View ki7hy's profile

ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


#5 posted 08-28-2016 02:41 AM

Lee, that is dead on the advice I was looking for. I searched the teknatool site but didn’t come across that. That is exactly what I was looking for. Downloaded and saved.

I’m definitely not looking to get yet another chuck yet but was thinking fruit bowls and such that would maybe be a bit deeper like 6”. If I can’t do it that’s ok. Just couldn’t find the numbers anywhere to see what I can and can’t do. I’m too much of a rookie to understand things fully yet even after watching a bunch of videos. Still learning and excited to continue.

Thanks Lee.

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3127 days


#6 posted 08-28-2016 02:50 AM

I stand corrected on using Power Grip Jaws on the G3. Mea culpa.

BTW … you don’t need a chuck to turn bowls (even very large bowls). You can do it with faceplates and glue blocks. Check out Lyle Jamieson on YouTube … https://www.youtube.com/user/JamiesonLyle

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


#7 posted 08-28-2016 05:14 AM

I’ll check that out Gerry. I appreciate any feedback I get. Thank you for your input as well.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1885 posts in 1599 days


#8 posted 08-28-2016 01:50 PM

I don’t own a NOVA G3 chuck but would have no problem turning a 12” dia bowl with 50 mm jaws. Think your instruction say not too exceed 4” thickness, whether using a recess or tennon correct me if wrong.

Do own a 2 two Oneway Talon chucks one with stander #2 jaw set and the other with #1 spigot jaw set. Have been turning bowls greater than 12” and thicker than 4” with #2 jaw set that came with the cuck for years.

While there are few major or minor differences between a Nova G3 and my Talons. You do need a different procedure for cutting a recess or tenon for mounting bowls to the chuck but basic turning procedure about the same.

Like Jerry said tailstock support is required for part of the turning process whether using jaws or chuck screw.

For rough turning definitely need tail stock support whether using jaws or screw. I start tuning the outside of the bowl first because allow me to get shape and turn a tenon or recess depening upon design and whether turning wet or dry wood. I do remove the tailstock support for turning a recess but also slow lathe speed down too.

If dealing with soft wood like Poplar or very wet wood will bring back tailstock support once reverse bowl in the chuck. Will turn away as much wood as I can until tailstock & live center gets in my way before removing tailstock support.

I have never felt the need to go to a bigger jaw set even though doing little bit more hollowing these days.

If having a bigger jaw set will give you more confindense go for it. They won’t change turning procedures!

-- Bill

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3127 days


#9 posted 08-28-2016 03:11 PM

One more caution … Cole Jaws are for finishing the bottom of bowls at lower speeds (some recommend under 800rpm, others under 600rpm). Using them at speeds higher than that can result in your workpiece going airborne.

I have a set of Cole Jaws … can’t remember when the last time was that I used them. All of that aluminum spinning around has always looked pretty dangerous to me.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


#10 posted 08-28-2016 04:42 PM

Thanks wildwood, I was actually thinking the same. My lathe will go up to 14” diameter and was hoping to go the whole distance. As for turning support with the tail stock, I planned to use it on both sides of the bowl as you describe until I need to pull it away to finish under it. Lots of guys on the YouTube dont but they usually have bigger lathes and more substantial chicks. So I’ll definitely do that.

Gerry, I actually opened the cole jaws and felt them and thought “hmmmmmm”, then threw them in a drawer. Might try them someday but I need to learn bowl turning first.

Learning a lot in this thread, thank you guys.

View LeeMills's profile

LeeMills

271 posts in 765 days


#11 posted 08-30-2016 03:09 PM

If you are just starting out with a chuck I suggest three videos (abt 12-15 minutes each) by Stuart Batty.
Most/many cases or orbiting an item can be traced to improper mounting. Look for the three on Jaws and Chucks,
Recesses, and Tenons.
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail

JMHO but if you are turning bowls for pragmatic use I follow Mike Mahoney’s guidelines of the base should be about 1/3 the diameter. Using the 50mm jaws I would go with a recess rather than a tenon. At that size a proper recess will have 3X the amount of wood to break off given one inch around the recess.
For your pin jaws just drill a 1” diameter hole at least one inch deep, inset, and expand. You do not need a flat surface like you would need with a faceplate or the worm screw. Of course use the tailstock for as long as you can and with green wood you may need to tighten the pin chuck occasionally.

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

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ki7hy

493 posts in 203 days


#12 posted 08-30-2016 04:46 PM

Thanks Lee, those are great videos at the link. I plan to actually watch the majority of those regardless. I might learn a little extra.

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