Saw Alignment Help Needed!

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Forum topic by SawTamer posted 06-05-2010 08:09 AM 1192 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 3153 days

06-05-2010 08:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

I must admit two things here… first I’m only about 2yrs experienced and one serious project as woodworker. I am mechanical engineer, so I’m very detail oriented and I understand machinery pretty well. However, my Grizzly 1022 is giving me fits! I have read every artical, blog, website, pdf, etc that I can get my hands on and for the life of me I cant get my saw blade aligned to the miter slot. I tried to order a pair of the PALS alignement brackets, but since they didn’t respond to my online order, I decided to just fabricate a set myself. They worked great! But, no matter how I go about it, I get .012 to .015 misalignment in the blad to miter slot. I am using a dial indicator. I am using a single point on the blade and using the exact same point at both ends. I have already checked arbor runout (.0005) and the arbor shaft with no issues. I have even tried checking this using several different points on the blade and it’s consistently off. I checked to make sure there’s only one trunion bolt fully tightened and the others are more than finger tight. If I set the dial indicator to zero at the infeed, then move it to the back of the saw and check, I’m out by .012 or so. So, I use the adjustment brackets I fabricated and I can bring it perfect into alignment. Then I rotate the blad back and re-measure the infeed side and it’s out by .012 to.015 again. I am at a complete loss here.

If you have any ideas, I’m open to anything at this point… maybe even a torch! ;-) I appreciate it!

8 replies so far

View tomd's profile


2186 posts in 4011 days

#1 posted 06-05-2010 08:16 AM

Have you tried another blade ? Personally, .012 is good enough for me, I’m cutting wood that will be edged and sanded, the wood will probably move more than that.

-- Tom D

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3638 days

#2 posted 06-05-2010 08:39 AM

Trying a different blade is a good idea. If you don’t have another blade (known to be good) you can turn your blade 180-degrees on the arbor and see if that makes a difference in the reading. If it does, the blade is bent.
After all that you have gone through, I would be calling Grizzly for some ideas. They may know something about their saw that could be of help to you.

-- Tom Hintz,

View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3801 days

#3 posted 06-05-2010 03:32 PM

I’d suspect one or more of the following:

The entire trunnion assembly is moving as opposed to just the end being adjusted. Solution – tighten the front trunnion bolts more.

Trunnion washers are deforming into the slots creating a “memory” effect. Solution – replace with hardened washers.

Measurement technique is not repeatable.

PS – I sent you a PM on how I solved my saw’s alignment issues.

-- Joe

View a1Jim's profile (online now)


117417 posts in 3817 days

#4 posted 06-05-2010 04:49 PM

It seems everyone has covered all I can think off.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View poppatom's profile


116 posts in 3168 days

#5 posted 06-05-2010 11:21 PM

I have a Grizzly cabinet saw and they way I aline it was to loosen three of the four bolts that hold the table to the stand, depending on which way it needs to be moved then bump it with a rubber mallet towards the direction it need to go.
The saw portion and the table move independently of each other.

-- Tom L. Williams ~ The difference between a man and a boy is the price of his toys.

View SawTamer's profile


2 posts in 3153 days

#6 posted 06-25-2010 07:52 AM

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions and tips. I apologize for the lag time in my response, but I’ve been out of the country for a bit. So, as it turns out, this was a measurement setup problem. I didn’t realize it at the time, but the blade was not quite at 90deg to the table. To compound this issue, I also found that the table was out of whack front to back by a few thousand as well. Once I squared the blade, I was able to adjust the table level and get the entire setup consistently to within .001 front to back of the saw blade. This is more than accurate enough for me. Thanks again to everyone for the help.

Key Take Away: Make sure the blade is at 90 degree’s to the table before making the blade to miter slot alignment check.

View docholladay's profile


1287 posts in 3299 days

#7 posted 06-25-2010 09:02 AM

Here is one other thought. In your discription, you menion a bolt that is “fully” tightened when you are trying to adjust. It seems to me that while you want that bolt tight enough to eliminate any slop, you don’t want it completely tight. Having it completely tight would cause the trunion to actually flex instead of pivot when trying to adjust and resulting in the casting being in tension. If this is happening, no amount of adjusting would ever get it correctly aligned, plus the tension is always going to cause it to try to settle back toward releasing that tension which of course is right back where you started from which is out of alignment.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View SawTamer's profile


2 posts in 3153 days

#8 posted 06-25-2010 06:04 PM

Great catch Doc. I hadn’t thought about that one. I will make sure that’s not the case.

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