Old Table Saw, Hanging Motor Mount Crooked?

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Forum topic by Cerestes posted 06-05-2010 06:25 AM 8327 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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7 posts in 2632 days

06-05-2010 06:25 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw belt

Evening All,

A neighbor recent passed a very old table saw on to me. It is a pretty small cast iron unit, secured to a home built cabinet & table. An old 3/4hp belt driven motor that hangs off the back of the table. The weight of the motor keeps the belt tight, and the saw seems to run fine.

What seems odd, is the eye bolts that hold the motor in place are both bent, with bolt one furthest from the belt significantly more so than the other. It seems like the saw would run better if the belt ran perpendicular to the shafts on the motor and the saw. As it is, the bent bolts make the belt angle a bit.

I’m entirely new to this, so it very well could be someone did this on purpose.
Any idea if they’re just bent with age, or intentionally? Can/should I replace the bolts?

Another random question – the motor has 3 different diameter slots that the belt can run.
Any suggestions as to which speed to default to? And when to change to one of the other ‘settings’?

I’m new to this too, but here’s hoping these end up as pictures:

Motor - Front

Motor - Side

16 replies so far

View Cerestes's profile


7 posts in 2632 days

#1 posted 06-05-2010 06:27 AM

The pictures came out a bit off, the sides of each get cut off when viewing on the forum.
But if you right click and ‘view image’, it shows the whole picture.

View a1Jim's profile


115171 posts in 2995 days

#2 posted 06-05-2010 06:37 AM

If it ain’t broke ….

-- Custom furniture

View Foggy's profile


5 posts in 1695 days

#3 posted 03-02-2012 12:55 PM

I copied the link below this post from Google Books. If it’s the same as your saw, I bought one through an ad in Popular Mechanics in 1968. It’s the only thing I ever bought, that I picked up at the train depot. Mine had a bearing that had to be oiled regularly. I think it was bronze, later on the company offered one with ball bearings charging around four or five dollars extra. I don’t remember my eyebolts being bent. The one I had did a good job of ripping narrow wood but, when I tried to rip something wide the blade bound and slipped on the shaft. I can only guess that the previous owner bent the eyebolts in an effort to correct the slippage problem. It’s more likely that they were bent accidentally. I still miss the nifty little can that locked the height adjustment. Eventually, a line of woodworking equipment turned up in the Sears catalog that looked suspiciously like the ones in the ad. As I remember the prices were much higher. Good luck with your saw.

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2307 posts in 2415 days

#4 posted 03-02-2012 01:12 PM

You probably want your belt and pulley on motor lined up with pulley on the saw. The aluminum pulleys will last longer, the belt will last longer, the saw will run smoother. As far as speed, typically a table saw is 3450 rpm.
Foggy: Wished I could have setup shop in 1968 !

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 2487 days

#5 posted 03-02-2012 03:46 PM

That mount looks like a home made setup – not something that came from the manufacturer. Your diagnosis about the bent eye bolts sounds right – vibration would cause the eye bolts to bend, and the eye bolt nearest the pully wouldn’t bend as much since it’s supported by the belt.

Replacing the eyebolts would certainly help, and reducing vibration would help even more. I would get machined pullies and a link belt. I would also replace that stepped pulley with one the same size as the arbor pulley, and make sure that the pullies are aligned so the belt tracks straight.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View waho6o9's profile


7115 posts in 1995 days

#6 posted 03-02-2012 03:54 PM

Sounds like he took a motor off a drill press and hooked it up to the table saw.
For safety reasons I wouldn’t use it. Good luck.

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Mainiac Matt

5948 posts in 1747 days

#7 posted 03-02-2012 11:59 PM

You could very easily replace the eye bolts with straight ones….

I’d be very careful using that saw without any kind of rip fence

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View stevemorris's profile


46 posts in 1724 days

#8 posted 03-03-2012 01:21 PM

the mounting system definetly has the homemade mcgyver look!! there must have a factory setup of some kind at one time to allow the motor to tilt with the arbour although some smaller saws allowed the belt to twist when tilting the arbour

yes the motor pulley needs to parallel to the arbour pulley, i would suggest a heavier duty version for sure

blade speed on my old beaver 8 inch saw is around 5000 rpm, so a suitable single motor pulley is needed

-- My Shop is a Beaver Lodge

View Foggy's profile


5 posts in 1695 days

#9 posted 03-03-2012 10:23 PM

The original motor mount was attached to the little self-contained insert that was what I got when I picked up the saw. The table was small but it worked OK for small things, on it’s own. Plans for the cabinet came in the package. They told how to cut the parts, even the miter slot, with the little saw. I used a hand held circular saw instead as this seemed to be an awkward proposition. The swinging motor mount attached to the insert as well. I don’t remember it tilting but, am not sure. I don’t remember repositioning the motor mount when I built the table either so, Macgyver was most likely at work on the motor mount on your saw. I’d guess because the motor was too large to fit on the original mount. It wasn’t very heavy. Your motor looks like a drill press motor to me too.
Over the years, I’ve run across a couple more saws of this design within ten miles of home so, they must have been pretty popular. A friend used his for a dedicated purpose in his crafts shop. I think he had the table extensions that were at one time an option.
My advise: If the seller didn’t tell you about oiling the bearing, look on the bearing housing for an oil hole and hope there is none and your saw has ball bearings. I wish I could remember what grade of oil was recommended but can’t. If your saw has an oil hole you might do a web search for instructions on that saw the name of the company is in the link that I gave you in my first post.
These days I’m using a flimsy bench top saw and the blade height adjustment has begun to give to give trouble. I sure wish it had that neat little cam lock adjustment like your saw does. :-)

View northeaster's profile


52 posts in 1911 days

#10 posted 03-04-2012 02:09 AM

You have to love the fact that a pair of 1/2” machinery grade eyebolts would cost about 20-40% of what the whole saw apparently went for originally. Also, correctly or not, my father (a mechanical engineer who played with such things as a hobby) used to lubricate Oilite bearings of that era with 30W motor oil.

View Foggy's profile


5 posts in 1695 days

#11 posted 03-04-2012 02:46 PM

Even in 1968 the price of that saw was almost unbelievably low. To illustrate that, I sold mine approximately a year later and bought a 10 inch Craftsman Radial Arm saw, on sale, for around for around 150 dollars. I remember because I had people calling up after I’d sold the table saw and I tried to make a few bucks by jacking the price up on the radial arm saw and selling it to them. No takers.

View grumpy749's profile


228 posts in 1796 days

#12 posted 03-04-2012 03:18 PM

This looks like a very dangerious tool. I’d be very hesitant to use this as is. You might want to keep it as a conversation piece when your buds come over for a beer while working in the shop. By the way all work stops at that point for safty reasons. Invest in a good table saw, be very carful using it and you will enjoy the best hobby in the world for as long as you want.

-- Denis in Grande Prairie. Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mistery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the present.....Pink !

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4188 posts in 3153 days

#13 posted 03-04-2012 04:01 PM

I’d replace the eyebolts with ‘swingbolts’ which you can get at an industrial supply store. I’d bet that those eyebolts got twisted in a sudden kickback or other reason for the blade to be suddenly jammed. I would not readily believe that the bending was due to some cumulative vibration thing.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Randy_H's profile


1 post in 517 days

#14 posted 05-24-2015 06:42 PM

I know this is an old posting but it helped me out with an old saw I found under cabinets in an old garage. The saw scares me a bit but I am wondering about removing the saw table and mounting a grinding and/or buffing wheel to the shaft since the G.E. motor seems to run fine. Everything is still sitting over in the garage, so I don’t even know if it is possible yet. Anyone care to comment?


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5673 posts in 904 days

#15 posted 05-25-2015 02:30 AM

Buffer sounds awesome if you can

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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