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PC 690LR 1/2" shank collar set up Q ?

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Forum topic by jfynyson posted 08-20-2016 04:29 PM 309 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jfynyson

21 posts in 329 days


08-20-2016 04:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router

I’ve never changed the collar on my router and I’ve not really used a router much at all but need/want to learn. I removed the 1/4” shank collar and need to install the 1/2” collar that came with the router to accept my new Freud 1-1/2” flatt bottom bit I need to use to flatted some cedar log slices/cookies using the sled jig I’ll build. I used a snap ring pliers (I think that’s what its called) to be able to remove the barrel inside the 1/2 collar. That barrel has an ID of 5/16”.

Questions:
Is it acceptable / safe to use my 1/2” collar w/o one of those steel barrels inside of it ?

If not, does this mean that collar is not made for a 1/2” shank bit but rather a 5/16” ? If so, I didn’t realize they made those as I’ve only seen 1/4” & 1/2” that I recall…

Does a bit need to fit all the way down into the collar shaft until it stops ? If not, how far down from the very top is “safe” to tighten down the shank and use for such a wide (1-1/2”) bit for flattening logs slices.

Must I use a guide bushing around the 1/2” shank for just flattening logs or are the guide bushings for more precise routing around objects ?

Here’s some picks of my parts / set up I’m dealing with today…
See the 1-1/2 bit, 5/16” ID barrel (1/2” OD); and 1/2” collar

See bit set almost all the way down into the shaft (it can go slightly further)...note no guide bushing (is this ok?)

See bit set up from the bottom of the shaft to give me more cutting depth (Is this safe ?)

Thanks in advance !


8 replies so far

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jfynyson

21 posts in 329 days


#1 posted 08-20-2016 04:52 PM

I searched on this site before I posted the OP but I didn’t check Youtube (odd since that’s usually a go to for me as well). Anyways seems as though most of my questions were answered via this video if anyone (newbie’s to routers like me) is interested….I’m sure there are better videos out there…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGHgn6wvLyc

Looks like I do not seat the bit all the way down (1/8-1/4” from bottoming out); no barrel or guide bushing needed from what I’m seeing

Please let me know if I’m mistaken !

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Fred Hargis

3935 posts in 1956 days


#2 posted 08-20-2016 05:56 PM

It’s routinely suggested you have at least 2/3s of the shank in the collet (what they are more commonly called). That’s becomes even more important with large bits like yours. Along with that, you never want to set the bit down to far, there should be 1/8” or so of the shank showing due to the radius right where the shank transitions to the cutter head. The bushing is not necessarily needed or what you are doing unless your sled is made to use one. My guess (and it is a guess) is that the in the last pic the bit is too far out, you’ll likely have chatter or worse: unsafe operation. The 1/2” collet is made to be used just as it is (no split ring), and is perfectly safe.The split ring adapter you show is safe, but not optimal…I quite using them altogether after finding the can slip, they are sometimes just a hair off center, and generally a PITA to use (my opinion). Oh, that split ring might be for a 5/16” shank (I’ve never seen one but they may exist) but more likely it’s a 1/4” and your measurement may be slightly over. I’ve had 3 PC 690s, and none of them came with an adapter…they all had separate 1/4” collet/nut assemblies, they looked exactly like your 1/2”, except for the size. They are available, if you don’t have one consider buying it (they are not real cheap). Oops, caught your second post….what you said is correct.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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jfynyson

21 posts in 329 days


#3 posted 08-20-2016 08:01 PM

Fred – many thanks for the follow up on the shank depth insertion recommendation, terminology, and affirmation; I do have the 1/4” collet and have always had it installed until today which is what confused me and made me think before I did anything

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teejk02

424 posts in 588 days


#4 posted 08-20-2016 08:35 PM

Having just a few of the 690’s in my stash, I’ll agree with Fred. The inner collet nut (male) is fixed to the motor. The outer nut (female) can be either 1/4 or 1/2 and neither requires a bushing unless your cutter is neither 1/4 or 1/2 diameter (e.g. the 8mm Leigh dovetail cutters that are less than 1/2” but too large for the 1/4”). And Fred already explained the depth…get as much into that collet as you can (leaving 1/8” or so beyond bottom). If you need more depth then leave a bit more before bottom but at least 2/3rds of the shank in the collet. The one thing with the 690s is that the collet takes up a lot of room…add a guide bushing to the base and you have to watch cutter depth to avoid metal on metal. When I set up for the dovetail jig I’m sure I am close to the 2/3rds rule…might actually exceed it.

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runswithscissors

2187 posts in 1488 days


#5 posted 08-21-2016 05:38 AM

PC does make (or did) a 3/8” collet (I got one to use with a 3/8” shank end mill (with 1/8” cutting diameter—I was cutting out aluminum with templates. Used a router speed control. Worked great). I’ve never seen a 3/8” shanked router bit, but somebody must have made at least one at some time.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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Fred Hargis

3935 posts in 1956 days


#6 posted 08-21-2016 12:14 PM

I have several 3/8” bits and prefer them to any 1/4” shank. I alos have the PC 3/8” collet, along with 3.8” collets for my Freud and Milwaukee routers. You can get them in some metric sizes as well. A good place for these is Elaire Corp. Their collets are every bit as good as OEM. Check out the Whiteside bit offerings for 3/8” shank bits, they probably have more than others.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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jbay

813 posts in 362 days


#7 posted 08-21-2016 02:30 PM

I’ve never had to remove the snap ring from the nut and barrel. Every one I’ve had comes with the nut and barrel put together already for both sizes.

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

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runswithscissors

2187 posts in 1488 days


#8 posted 08-21-2016 08:11 PM

If the snap ring is the one I think it is, it’s purpose is to break the bit loose when it’s stuck in the collet. No reason at all to remove it. Older PC routers didn’t have that feature, but it’s been included for at least 20 years. Works quite well, certainly better than banging on the bit with the collet wrench, hoping not to chip the carbide.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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