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Forum topic by Craig posted 06-02-2010 04:29 AM 1172 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Craig

31 posts in 2425 days


06-02-2010 04:29 AM

Twenty years ago I bought a new 25 gallon compressor. Without ever reading any instructions to it other the PSI for different tool requirements. One night the compressor comes on and I also hear air. I realized that a hole developed in the bottom of the tank due to moisture buidup and rusted through. Since then with a newer one I empty and purge and turn off after use.
My question is, do you do the same. Did I buy lemon? Or is that a good habit to get into. Now I realize some of you have those big Mando tanks which could take a while to fill up if you do empty and purge on a regular basis.

-- "One Useless Man is a Shame. Two are a Law firm. Three or More are a Congress". - 'John Adams'


10 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2943 days


#1 posted 06-02-2010 04:31 AM

I always purge the tank after each day. Water build up is common due to the air compression so its a good idea to drain it after each use.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3040 days


#2 posted 06-02-2010 04:36 AM

I’d say you have developed a good habit by draining your tank frequently. I’m surprized your old tank lasted that long.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Craig's profile

Craig

31 posts in 2425 days


#3 posted 06-02-2010 04:49 AM

Actually Jim, the old one only lasted about a year. and that was the twenty years ago I was refering to. I have a five gallon now. So it takes about 2 minutes to fill up. Typically, how long would it take to fill up the larger ones?

-- "One Useless Man is a Shame. Two are a Law firm. Three or More are a Congress". - 'John Adams'

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2495 posts in 2570 days


#4 posted 06-03-2010 08:09 AM

Craig,
The recovery time depends on the CFM of the compressor and the size of the tank. Everyone misses the mark by thinking PSI. It is the volume of air at the required pressure that gets the job done.

And with the thin material that is used in today’s tanks makes it mandatory that you keep them as dry as possible inside. My tank came off a WWII destroyer. The thing is made from 3/8th thick steel, but I drain it daily when I use it.

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 2446 days


#5 posted 06-04-2010 01:24 AM

When I bought my 60 gal. compressor 4 years ago. I removed the pit cock valve and put a 90 degree elbow in the drain ran a nipple to extent out far enough for a ball cock valve and then another short nipple to that. All I have to do is reach down and open the valve and the pressure does the rest. When its done I just shut the valve. It only takes 10 minutes for it to pressure up when I turn on the compressor. I’ve done the same to my 15 gal. compressor as well. There’s no getting on my knees or any tools needed, so its hassle free to do. I hardly have any moisture in the moisture trap, this way it keeps my air tools dry as well.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5314 posts in 3176 days


#6 posted 06-23-2010 05:10 AM

I drain the compressor every day I use it…mind you it spends the winter in the unheated shop so any moisture would turn to ice and that probably isn’t very good for the tool.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View BTKS's profile

BTKS

1984 posts in 2927 days


#7 posted 06-23-2010 05:38 AM

I did exactly what Gregn did to his drain system. When air compresses the moisture is, for lack of a better term, squeezed out of it. Condensation is the enemy and frequent draining is a must. You don’t have to drain the entire tank. Just let the pressure push the water off the bottom and close the valve. I also added a self draining dryer just outside the tank. I’m remodeling the air system in my shop right now and adding a second dryer in the finishing room just ahead of the air outlet. The further away from the tank the more opportunity there is for the moisture to collect and be drained off the line. If you have a drop leg on a central system, the end of the leg should have a bleeder valve to let moisture and any contaminates collect and be dispelled there instead of in your tool or finish. I probably just dribbled on way too much. Hope this helps you or someone keep the air dry.
BTKS

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5314 posts in 3176 days


#8 posted 06-23-2010 05:45 AM

Way back when I was taking my driver’s ed course to drive 18 wheelers they told us to always drain the air tanks for the air brakes right down as the pressure will hold moisture in the tanks causing rusting (and flaking…bad thing to have flakes of rust in your brake lines!). To this day I will drain the tanks absolutely empty and even rack the tank on a small compressor to drain ALL the moisture out.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2405 posts in 2389 days


#9 posted 06-23-2010 05:46 AM

I purchased a Thomas oil-less 3/4 hp compressor in 1985 for my finishing work and still using it for small jobs, pumping up tires in the garage or in the yard as it is easy to carry around.

I did as most have suggested, drained the tank daily.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View Jesse.R's profile

Jesse.R

50 posts in 2388 days


#10 posted 06-23-2010 05:53 AM

god forbid they add 5 dollars to the cost to make those tanks out of stainless… id happily pay.

-- jesse

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