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my first time using shellac...

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Forum topic by mzimmers posted 08-19-2016 12:08 AM 618 views 1 time favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


08-19-2016 12:08 AM

...isn’t working out quite as I’d hoped for. The wood is rosewood, and I read in a few places that oily woods do well with shellac, so I got a can of Zinnser Bullseye (clear). It’s already thinner than water, and when it dries, it’s shinier than I thought it would be.

Am I putting it on too thick? I do have a tendency to do that. (I’m wiping it on, but could switch to brush.)

I generally like to work in the sunlight, so I can more readily see any imperfections. It’s quite hot out right now and the stuff is drying super fast. Is this a mistake on my part?

My plan at this point is to buff it with 0000 steel wool and spray it with some Deft lacquer, and be done. Any suggestions?

Thanks, guys.

mz

-- M. Zimmers


15 replies so far

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Aj2

687 posts in 1259 days


#1 posted 08-19-2016 12:22 AM

I think your putting it on too thick.
Many thin coats 15+ that you can barely notice.
The stuff in the can is junk.Compared to fresh flakes.
But if you must at least get Dewaxed.

Aj

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lumberdog

238 posts in 2728 days


#2 posted 08-19-2016 12:25 AM

Fresh out of the can it is too thick, thin in down with denatured alchohol and apply in thin coats. you can rub it out with steel wool. The dewaxed flakes are better.

-- Lumberdog.. Morley, Michigan

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nightguy

213 posts in 123 days


#3 posted 08-19-2016 01:12 AM

Are you using The Zinzar Seal Coat? that is clear and dewaxed, and a 2lb cut. The Zinzar Shellac is a 3lb cut, and Clear and Amber have wax in them. If it is cloudy when stirred, it has wax in it.
Plus you are working it in sunlight, drys supper fast, another problem. High humidity can cause it to dry cloudy also.

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mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#4 posted 08-19-2016 01:16 AM

Thanks for the replies, guys. This is what I’m using:

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/interior-wood-finishes/bulls-eye-shellac/

I’ll thin it more (already have once) but I think at this point, maybe I should just buff it and spray it with lacquer, unless anyone thinks this is a bad idea.

-- M. Zimmers

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nightguy

213 posts in 123 days


#5 posted 08-19-2016 01:45 AM

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mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#6 posted 08-19-2016 01:48 AM

Hi, Nightguy – a minor correction: I wasn’t spraying. I was wiping on, and it was definitely wet…for about 2-3 seconds (literally).

I moved it indoors, and tried again. The results were better, but still not what I was hoping for. I can try thinning it again.

What is the significance of the presence/absence of wax?

-- M. Zimmers

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nightguy

213 posts in 123 days


#7 posted 08-19-2016 03:01 AM



Hi, Nightguy – a minor correction: I wasn t spraying. I was wiping on, and it was definitely wet…for about 2-3 seconds (literally).

I moved it indoors, and tried again. The results were better, but still not what I was hoping for. I can try thinning it again.

What is the significance of the presence/absence of wax?

- mzimmers

Non wax Shellac is a bit harder when it dries, and if using it for a Sealer over something, exp oil stain, dye, BLO, it will take another finish oil/water Poly, lacquer, better then waxed.
One of the fastest finishes, BLO cut a bit with MS or MinWax Natural Stain, which I think is basically the same, wipe on to “pop” the grain contrast, wipe off, and Seal Coat Shellac to seal then what ever product or just more coats of Shellac, drys fast, recoat in about 2-4 hours depending on temp and humidity.

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nightguy

213 posts in 123 days


#8 posted 08-19-2016 03:22 AM

- M. Zimmers,
I HIGHLY recommend this book, get the soft cover, and save a few $, it is my finishing bible, he explains all types of finishes, trouble shooting problems,, stains, dies, applying, repair ect. It will money well spent.

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tomd

2026 posts in 3231 days


#9 posted 08-19-2016 04:08 AM

I don’t know what kind of finish you where looking for but my experience is rosewood has very large pores and it will take a lot of finish to fill those pores. If it is a small project you might do a French polish since you already have shellac. If a large project you may want to fill the pores then finish or just be happy with the finish you have now.

-- Tom D

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nightguy

213 posts in 123 days


#10 posted 08-19-2016 07:42 AM

- M. Zimmers,
I HIGHLY recommend this book, get the soft cover, and save a few $, it is my finishing bible, he explains all types of finishes, trouble shooting problems,, stains, dies, applying, repair ect. It will money well spent.

- nightguy

Opps, never added the link
http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-wood-finishing-bob-flexner/1111886330?ean=9781565235489&pcta=n&st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_Core+Shopping+Textbooks_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP223&k_clickid=3x223

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OSU55

1056 posts in 1450 days


#11 posted 08-19-2016 11:51 AM

Here's an article by Jeff Jewitt on Shellac. He has several good articles on finishing on his website, and has written books. Search for him on you tube as well. He and Flexner have been my prime resources for finishing.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1770 days


#12 posted 08-19-2016 03:26 PM

Just wondering. It come in a spray can and your wiping it on, why not spray it on.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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mzimmers

168 posts in 3376 days


#13 posted 08-19-2016 04:41 PM


Just wondering. It come in a spray can and your wiping it on, why not spray it on.

- AlaskaGuy

Mainly because I excel at creating unnecessary work for myself.

I did just apply the first two coats of lacquer…it looks really good, so I guess all’s well that ends well.

Thanks for all the input from everyone.

mz

-- M. Zimmers

View Nikki's profile

Nikki

75 posts in 233 days


#14 posted 08-22-2016 02:53 AM


Just wondering. It come in a spray can and your wiping it on, why not spray it on.

- AlaskaGuy

Mainly because I excel at creating unnecessary work for myself.

- mzimmers


Lol! Don’t we all!

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shipwright

7165 posts in 2259 days


#15 posted 08-22-2016 03:19 AM

If you want a slower dry in the heat you can sub isopropyl alcohol for the ethyl (DNA). I actually like it better. Just make sure you get a very high percentage like 98-99%. “Rubbing alcohol” is generally about 29% water. I buy a 99% isopropyl that sells as horse linament.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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