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Can you plane a glued up joint?

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Forum topic by Cato posted 1513 days ago 5856 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Cato

641 posts in 1909 days


1513 days ago

I glued up two boards I jointed and have a slight difference in height in a section of the jointed and glued boards.

Is it better to sand down the ridge section or can I run it back through the planer to even surfaces?

Not sure if the dried glue causes any problems with the planer blades.

The ridge height I discovered when I was wiping off the squeeze out and is maybe a 1/64 or a tad more.

Either an error on my part when clamping the glued sections, or my jointing technique with my new jointer.

Paying my dues I guess learning the planer and jointer which are both welcome additions.

I’ll have to be a bit more meticulous with both procedures next time as I was in a hurry. Haste makes waste.


26 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15650 posts in 2815 days


#1 posted 1513 days ago

I’ve heard some people say that glue is hard on planer blades, but I know a lot of people run their glue-ups back through the planer.

It will be interesting to read the responses to your question.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#2 posted 1513 days ago

yes, you can plane them.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1792 days


#3 posted 1513 days ago

I usually hand plane or chisel the extra glue off first, but I’ve never had problems hand planing them. Usually after I remove most of the glue with chisel/hand plane, only then would I put through planer. Mainly because I think its easier to sharpen hand plane irons than sharpening/replacing planer blades.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1757 days


#4 posted 1513 days ago

Cato, Yeah, its probably harder on the blades than, say, Poplar. But no worse on a hand-plane blade (or sandpaper for that matter). As a hobbiest, the difference is probably negligable. The questions are “what’s your time worth?”, “do you like hand-planing (being one with the wood)?”, “which tools/methods do you have at your disposal?”, and on and on. I’d say a quick swipe with a paint scraper and don’t worry about the minisquile(sp?) wear. You could be asking the same question about certain woods as well. I’d be more concerned about running boards through my planer that contain silica than glue. And for darned sure, avoid wood with nails like the plague. :) Hope this helps.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#5 posted 1513 days ago

I’ll 2nd Eric… I didn’t mention it earlier, but I will scrap off the glue squeezeout with a scraper, then hand plane it ‘clean’ – only then will I put the entire thing through the planer. so – yes, you can put glued up panels through the planer – but it’s better to clean off the glue squeezeout first!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2174 days


#6 posted 1513 days ago

I agree with Eric and Sharon.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Cato's profile

Cato

641 posts in 1909 days


#7 posted 1513 days ago

Thanks for the input. Yes I had planned on removing the squeeze out first and then getting the imperfect heights to match.

Running through the planer again would be a better solution for me to achieve a consistent thickness, rather than chancing dishing out with an ROS.

I guess there is a whole craft in woodworking in how to best fix your mistakes, if not then I am sure to create one for myself.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#8 posted 1513 days ago

FYI, I don’t think it’s unusual to plane glued up panels… I have yet to get a perfect flat and consistent panel in one go – I always have to plane it afterwards (by hand or with a planer).

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15650 posts in 2815 days


#9 posted 1513 days ago

Say what, Sharon?! My glue ups always come out perfect. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2077 days


#10 posted 1513 days ago

You should be ok planing it. I think that would be the best method.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1389 posts in 2061 days


#11 posted 1513 days ago

PurpLev: thanks! I was starting to think that my glueups are embarrassingly bad (instead of just plain bad). A 1/64th ridge is doing pretty good, i think!

View RBWoodworker's profile

RBWoodworker

416 posts in 1949 days


#12 posted 1513 days ago

One thing you can do in the future is to take a damp rag and clean off any squeeze out..it will prevent having to scrap off the hard dried glue later..I usually wait for the glue to skin over a little then scrape it right off no problem.at least that’s what I do..before I started doing that..I would take a belt sander and give it quick once over to sand off the ridges left by dried glue..but not enough to affect the thickness of the pieces glued together..then run them thru the planer or wide drum sander..

-- Randall Child http://www.racfurniture.com/

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#13 posted 1513 days ago

Charlie – my my glue ups are not always perfect, but my Screw Ups are always pristine!

AaronK – I think that if you search the web you’ll find that planing glued up panels is very common as the wood always tends to want to wonder during those glue ups.

One trick I use to minimize movement is to take some sand paper, and rub it against itself over the strips after the glue is on them (before they are put together) – some of the glass particles will rub off on the glue, and when putting the strips together will add friction between them to keep them from wandering about.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1792 days


#14 posted 1513 days ago

Charlie, perhaps you can post on how to get the perfect glue up, because mine never are lol, although they have gotten much much better since I decided not to use dowels.

I thought doweling would make it easier, but only if the holes are correctly aligned and the boards are identical thicknesses. I find it easier and quicker now to just joint the edges and do a glue up with one side of all boards flush during the glue up.

PurpLev, that sounds like an interesting trick. I’ll have to try that out.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View Cato's profile

Cato

641 posts in 1909 days


#15 posted 1513 days ago

In my case I should have probably checked for flatness a little better after I face jointed the boards.

They seemed to be flat to each other, but I was admiring how edge jointing made the two pieces fit nearly seamlessly that I didn’t pay as much attention as I should have.

Sure showed up immediately when I put the clamps on and started wiping squeeze out.

I’m also learning I need to index the sides that are jointed so I don’t loose track of opposing sides for planer and TS.

This process was not on rough lumber but on some wood that was fairly straight and I had already thickness planed a little oversize before beginning the jointing.

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