Table Saw tricks & tips suggestions

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Forum topic by axam posted 08-16-2016 12:43 PM 570 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 84 days

08-16-2016 12:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip trick question tablesaw


Was wondering if there were any tips you could impart about table saws or the Bosch GTS10J table saws (which I now have)

Already having problems with the riving knife, I cannot lower it (although I think this can be quickly resolved by loosening a nut)

Also having issues getting a square cut despite the guides & saw blade appearing to be level (may need an angle gauge?)

So any tips would be gratefully appreciated


14 replies so far

View JBrow's profile


749 posts in 342 days

#1 posted 08-18-2016 03:08 AM


Since I know nothing about the Bosch Table saw, I am of no help with the riving knife, although for safety, keeping it in place is a good idea. I personally have always used the factory blade guard for every cut I can. A spinning unguarded saw blade scares the day lights out of me!

If the saw blade and fence are parallel to the mitre slot, then setting the mitre gauge for a square cut can be done with a framing square (as long as the framing square is actually square). This can be done by place one leg of the framing square against the fence, which is locked in place. The mitre gauge is then adjusted so that the face of the mitre gauge rests against the other leg of the framing square.

Alternatively, if the mitre slot is milled square to the infeed edge of the table saw table, the mitre gauge can be aligned with the infeed edge of the table saw for a square cut. An angle gauge could be also be used, but using one of these alternative methods for square cuts could work just as well. However, an angle gauge would be handy for mitre and bevel cuts; if you are like me and do not trust the markings on the table saw’s bevel indicator or on the mitre gauge.

Depending on how much you plan to use the saw, a quality saw blade can make a difference.

View JohnDon's profile


61 posts in 591 days

#2 posted 08-18-2016 03:15 AM

Check your local public library for books on table saws. While there are not likely to be any specifically about Bosch saws, most tips are general enough to be applicable to any saw.

View rwe2156's profile


2122 posts in 903 days

#3 posted 08-18-2016 01:15 PM

Have you checked the manual on adjusting the saw?

There are easier ways than driving to the library and looking at 15 year old ww’ing books.

1. YouTube

2. Google

I guarantee there will more videos on tuning up a ts than you’ll ever want to see, maybe even one on your specific model!!

Based on your questions, you need to start with the basics and also spend a little time on safety.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View axam's profile


16 posts in 84 days

#4 posted 08-18-2016 01:43 PM

framing square

I bought an engineers square for the purpose of testing the saw blade,

I haven’t used the framing square as you suggest. thanks for the tip!

View axam's profile


16 posts in 84 days

#5 posted 08-18-2016 01:44 PM

library for books on table saws

checking the library is a great idea thanks!

View a1Jim's profile


115177 posts in 2999 days

#6 posted 08-18-2016 01:52 PM

Sorry to say that job site saws are on the low end of the scale to try and get square true cuts,but if you want to learn about things that table saws can do, get a copy of “table saw magic” by Jim Tolpin.

-- Custom furniture

View axam's profile


16 posts in 84 days

#7 posted 08-18-2016 01:54 PM

the manual on adjusting the saw?

I have checked the manual. it is not very clear (to me) tried to adjust the “Parallelism of the Saw Blade to the Guide Grooves of the Angle Stop (see figure U)” as suggested on page 23 but I have obviously done this wrong.

I can’t really figure out what it’s on about. also adjusting those screws (60 and 61) are not as easy as it suggests.

imo a good library is a great resource, the internet does not always yield the best results.

View axam's profile


16 posts in 84 days

#8 posted 08-18-2016 02:00 PM

job site saws are on the low end of the scale

yeah it’s funny that. it seemed to cost me an arm and a leg, yet it is a on the lower end of the spectrum as you say!

thanks for the book recommendation!! is that you Jim?

View HokieKen's profile


1534 posts in 560 days

#9 posted 08-18-2016 07:10 PM

It depends on how your cuts are out of square. Top to bottom or side to side? If top to bottom, it’s a matter of tweaking your 0 stop on your bevel. Best to have an angle gauge of some sort but can be done by trial and error if you’re patient and methodical. If it’s side to side, it’s a matter of tweaking the 0 setting on your miter gauge.

Another consideration is whether or not your out-of-square cuts are consistent. Is the angle off the same amount in the same direction consistently? If not, it may just be a flimsy miter gauge or a sloppy fit in the miter slot.

How are your rip cuts? Be careful that you don’t heel the fence and cause binding on the back side of the blade. It can cause kickback which can be very dangerous.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View JBrow's profile


749 posts in 342 days

#10 posted 08-19-2016 07:37 PM


I looked at the manual and assume that you have located screws 60 and 61, and that you have discovered that by loosening these screws, the trunnion can be adjusted to bring the saw blade parallel to the mitre slot. Therefore, my guess is that as you tighten 60 and 61, the trunnion moves.

My only suggestion for this typical and frustrating problem (at least for me), is tighten the screws a little at a time. Paying attention to the order in which the screws are tightened may also help, tightening screws that are diagonal from one other.

For example loosen screws 60 and 61 just enough so that the trunnion can be moved. Then adjust the trunnion so that the saw blade is parallel to the mitre slot. Then tighten 60 just a hair. Then tighten 61 at the diagonally opposite corner just a hair, then tighten the second 60 screw and finally to the diagonally opposite 61, just a hair. Then check that the trunnion has not moved. Continue this process until 60 and 61 are snugged up all the way up. Then check that the blade remains parallel to the mitre slot.

The only other alternative I can think of is to set the trunnion so the saw blade is parallel to the mitre slot and then clamp the trunnion in place. After clamping, re-check blade alignment. Then tighten the screws, but following the diagonal tightening pattern is probably still a good thing to do. Of course the problem with this method is finding a place for the clamps.

View Aj2's profile


632 posts in 1220 days

#11 posted 08-20-2016 03:28 AM

I had a Bosch table saw for a. Short time and thought it was very good for a Job site saw.
If your trying to get a good cross cut with the sloppy miter gage then forget about it.
Buy a after market gage that you can adjust.I had a kreg.One for both sides.
If you cannot get a square rip using the fence then you should only adjust the fence to the miter slots first.Do not mess with the trunnions.
Mine was perfectly adjusted at the factory but the fence needed attention.
Also you should be checking your cut on a piece of wood that is flat and square.
Your square needs to be square too.
Dont mess with the trunnions until your sure.In fact take the saw back if they are not in alignment.


View JBrow's profile


749 posts in 342 days

#12 posted 08-20-2016 04:47 AM


Having just described how to approach adjusting the trunnion, I have to add an additional comment after Aj2’s post…

Dont mess with the trunnions until your sure.In fact take the saw back if they are not in alignment.

I could not agree more! This should be set correctly from the factory. It is fundamental to the safe and accurate use of the saw plus it is too difficult, tedious, time consuming to get it just right (in my opinion). My regret is not adding to my earlier post what Aj2 said.

View Lazyman's profile (online now)


615 posts in 809 days

#13 posted 08-20-2016 11:24 AM

Not sure which direction of square you are having a problem with. If the blade is not parallel to the miter gauge slot it might be best to take it back for a new one, as mentioned above. As long as it is, you also need to make sure that the fence is parallel to the blade (basically aligned to the miter gauge slot). The manual should explain how to adjust it. Another source of problems while ripping is trying to rip a piece of wood that does not have a straight (factory) edge on one side. Without a jig, it is difficult and often dangerous to try making a straight cut if you don’t have a straight edge edge to run against the fence. You also mention having problems with the riving knife. If the knife is not perfectly aligned with the blade, it can cause a deflection as the piece passes the knife. The knife must also not be wider than the kerf of the blade (or the blade should not be narrower than the knife). If you are using the blade that came with the saw, that should not be a problem.

If the problem is that the bade is not square to the table top, you cannot necessarily rely on the scale on the tilt mechanism. Just using a small square is usually good enough but I like using a digital angle gauge to set the blade angle. Makes for quick and accurate setups for any angle. Also, you need to make sure that the throat plate is perfectly level with the table top or it will throw it off no matter how accurately you set the blade.

If you are having trouble with cross cuts being square, again, the blade has to first be parallel to the miter gauge slot. If it is, make sure that the miter gauge does not have too much play in the slot. Many have adjustments to make sure that they are tight but not so tight that they bind. If not, you can use aluminum tape (used for AC duct work) as a shim to tighten it in the slot. I use my digital angle gauge to set the miter gauge by hanging the miter gauge on the edge of the table saw. Finally, the most important safety and accuracy tool for my table saw is a cross cut sled. Everyone should make one of these. A well made sled not only makes 90 degree cross cuts much more accurate but it allows me to make cuts safely that I would never attempt without it.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View axam's profile


16 posts in 84 days

#14 posted 08-20-2016 02:01 PM

kreg.One for both sides.

like this one? Kreg will it fit the tables miter gauge slot?

_Dont mess with the trunnions

Thanks ! I will definitely not touch the trunnions .. just yet ..

Everyone should make one of these.

I am definitely making a cross cut sled.. when i get around to it. it will be my next project.

Thanks for all the tips !

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