Restoring a Craftsman 10" Table Saw (10327270)

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Forum topic by ConBran posted 08-15-2016 12:46 PM 1558 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ConBran's profile


3 posts in 853 days

08-15-2016 12:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw craftsman motor electrical power cord restoration tablesaw question


Hope I can get some advice as I start the restoration on a Craftsman 10327270 with its motor (1HP Mod 11319063).

This was a free table saw for me, too good an opportunity to pass up. Runs great and cuts well (on small test pieces). However, it has been sitting in storage for several years, so I want to give it some TLC before I start putting it to regular use.

The first thing I am really trying to find out / verify is, what type of power cord can I replace the motor power cord with?

The Sears Part (part no 24250) is, obviously, no longer available, and, unfortunately, I cannot find any information on sourcing a suitable replacement. The power cord on the motor appears to be the original. The rubber insulation is cracking and has fallen off in places (somewhat visible in the first image) – hence the need to replace it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a suitable replacement?

If you need any more info, just ask.

Thanks for your assistance, looking forward to restoring this workhorse and finally having a table saw in my hobby shop!


9 replies so far

View dhazelton's profile


2793 posts in 2499 days

#1 posted 08-15-2016 04:03 PM

That’s a nice saw. King Seely or Walker Turner made it (someone will know definitively). Does the cord need replacing? If the insulation is just worn around where it goes into the body I would just cut it a ft shorter and reattach it. Otherwise just take the cord to the store and match it’s gauge and get an appropriate plug. If the saw is ungrounded now you can just attach your ground wire to any bolt on the motor body.

View MrUnix's profile


7050 posts in 2401 days

#2 posted 08-15-2016 04:21 PM

Cheapest and easiest is to just get an appropriate gauge extension cord from the BORG or your local hardware store. There is no reason to pay 10x extra for an OEM branded piece of wire with a plug. As an added safety bonus, you will get a ground connection, which your saw probably doesn’t have (make sure to run it to the motor as well).


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View EEngineer's profile


1117 posts in 3815 days

#3 posted 08-16-2016 10:52 AM

+1 on the extension cord. Get a good 12 AWG extension cord with overmolded plug and cut one end off. You will probably find it is cheaper than buying the cord and plugs and wiring it yourself!

Also +1 on the ground!

I recently rebuilt an old Delta disk sander. Prior owner had cut off the ground pin on the plug in order to plug it into a 2-wire outlet (Damn! I hate that!). When I opened the electrical box to check the wiring I found the insulation had degraded on the hot lead and the bare wire was almost touching the metal housing.

With a proper ground it would have done nothing more than trip the breaker. Without it, the entire tool would have been hot!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View toolie's profile


2148 posts in 2830 days

#4 posted 08-16-2016 11:09 AM

Wired for either voltage, it only needs 14 gauge wire as the motor draws under 12 amps wired got 110 Volts and under 6 amps if wired for 220 volts. I’d wire it for 220 volts if it’s available in your shop.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View ConBran's profile


3 posts in 853 days

#5 posted 08-16-2016 04:08 PM

Hey guys,

Thanks for the advice – glad to know I can just switch out for an extension cable.

EEngineer, I have the same 2 prong receptacle on the saw, and I was considering looking into how easy it would be rewire the box with a grounded receptacle, as well as, adding a table saw paddle switch.

But one step at a time, and that first step is making the connection from the saw switch to the motor safe again!

The saw itself will be plugged into a GFCI receptacle since my garage isn’t grounded (turning my garage into a proper ‘shop’ is a different project, thankfully it’s a bare shell and first step is all new wiring back to the main circuit breaker, which means I can run a 220 in the off chance that I need it for something) – and because I am paranoid :)

I’ll fire an update up once I get the new wiring in this week.

View MrUnix's profile


7050 posts in 2401 days

#6 posted 08-16-2016 04:21 PM

But one step at a time, and that first step is making the connection from the saw switch to the motor safe again!

Get an extension cord longer than you need so you have enough wire for both – that is, cut the female end off the cord, then cut off a few feet for the motor to switch wiring, and the rest can go from the switch to the wall outlet.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Woodknack's profile


12431 posts in 2582 days

#7 posted 08-16-2016 04:31 PM

This guy has a series of videos on restoring a Craftsman contractor saw. Don’t know if any of it will be helpful with your saw but you might find it interesting.

I have no idea who made it but if it were King Seeley it would probably say “Craftsman by King Seeley” on the badge, they liked having their name on the machine.

-- Rick M,

View CyberDyneSystems's profile


288 posts in 2390 days

#8 posted 08-16-2016 07:46 PM

Home depot and Lowes (and Amazon)

... All sell replacement cords of various lengths and gauge.
If you go long, then make it 12 gauge, though it sounds like an outlet is nearby so a 10-15’ 14 gauge should be fine.

The extension cord solution is fine, but often I find that the jacketing on the replacement cord is better, but guess it depends on the extension cord.

-- Without the wood, it's just working

View ConBran's profile


3 posts in 853 days

#9 posted 08-16-2016 09:33 PM

OK, so this is what I am going with for now:

In fact, I’ll get 2 – one from wall to saw, one from saw to motor, though the saw to motor will have a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter temporarily until I can change out the socket.

And, Rick M and dhazelton were correct, it is a King Seeley:

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