Woodcraft HVLP Spray gun - woodriver.

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Forum topic by barryvabeach posted 05-28-2010 02:32 PM 5228 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3065 days

05-28-2010 02:32 PM

I saw the Woodcraft flyer shows their hvlp on sale for $25 – course I went and bought it yesterday before the sale was in effect, so I paid $35, and this is an ungloat. I just tried it for a few minutes tonight and think this gun is probably a steal at $25. The needle cap has some very fine holes machined in it to atomize the fluid which is usually a sign of quality. I shot some Enduro Precat Urethane and it came out without any spits, with a nice wet coat and good fan width – it hasn’t dried yet, so I can’t comment on that. I am surprised since I normally use a 1.7 nozzle on my other guns for waterbased ( I have an Astro, and Asturo – how about that for both ends of the spectrum). I didn’t spray for long enough to see if the tip gets clogged, which is a common problem with waterbased and smaller nozzles. The trigger on this gun is stiffer than I would like, though I haven’t tried to adjust that. A minor quibble is the supplied wrench is hardened steel – not a down side unless, as my case, it is a hair to fit on the nozzle, and I had to tap the wrench with a small hammer to get it to slip onto the nozzle. YMMV. I will try to test it out more thoroughly over the weekend, but again, for $25, it seems like a steal. One thing, the description says that the nozzle and needle are stainless steel – but when I did a magnet test, the magnet stuck to both – so I don’t know what type of stainless it is. The magnet did not stick to the air cap or body.

12 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117114 posts in 3599 days

#1 posted 05-28-2010 05:17 PM

I thinks Charles Neil said this was a good gun .

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View BOB67CAM's profile


269 posts in 3093 days

#2 posted 05-28-2010 05:24 PM

im no expert on stainless, however stainless can be magnetic, stainless is an alloy, meaning that its a mixture of 2 metals so depending on how much iron or steel is in it, the more magnetic it is

-- if you dont have it, build it, especially when its a stupid idea

View PurpLev's profile


8536 posts in 3670 days

#3 posted 05-28-2010 05:31 PM

FYI StainLESS is magnetic and has iron in it. that’s why it’s stainLESS and not stainFREE ;). Aluminum on the other hand….

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3065 days

#4 posted 05-28-2010 05:39 PM

This is what I have seen

Generally referred to as a 300 series, stainless steel that contains nickel is not magnetic at all. The reason is that the presence of the nickel alters the physical structure of the stainless steel and removes or inhibits any magnetic qualities.

However, magnetic stainless steel does exist. The 400 series, which contains steel and chromium, but without the presence of nickel, does in fact exhibit magnetic qualities. While the degree of magnetic attraction may vary, it is not unusual for items made with the 400 series stainless steel to provide enough attraction to interact with magnets, and in some cases to allow small metal items to adhere to the stainless steel surface. However, magnetic stainless steel in consumer products does not tend to carry a strong magnetic charge.

The needle and nozzle on both my Asturo and Astro are not magnetic at all.

View PurpLev's profile


8536 posts in 3670 days

#5 posted 05-28-2010 05:46 PM

oh, interesting find – thanks for the info!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View jerryz's profile


164 posts in 3300 days

#6 posted 05-28-2010 06:03 PM

Actually it depends! hahaha

It depends on the SS see SS is broadly divided in 2 categories, Martensitic and Austenitic SS.

All Martensitic SS is magnetic, the building block is “ferritic”

However some Austenitic SS are non magnetic.

It has to do with the Cromium and Nickel content in the SS that defines if it is non magnetic.

Most cuttlery SS is magnetic by the way

View sawblade1's profile


754 posts in 3048 days

#7 posted 05-28-2010 06:22 PM

I did a review on this gun I have the same one I think :)
Been very satisfied with it I also bought the 2mm tip for paint spraying I haven’t tried that though :|
I hope you enjoy :)

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path

View PurpLev's profile


8536 posts in 3670 days

#8 posted 05-28-2010 06:34 PM

yes Jerry, most SS that I’m familiar with is from cutlery and kitchen stuff. wans’t aware that there are 2 versions of SS.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CubsFan's profile


27 posts in 3036 days

#9 posted 05-28-2010 06:41 PM

Is this the one?

Any ideas how it would compare the the Harbor Freight ones?

View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3065 days

#10 posted 05-29-2010 02:46 AM

HF has a number of different ones. The Woodriver blows away the HF that I saw the last time I was at HF, but I don’t know if I saw their best model.

View tacoma07's profile


16 posts in 1885 days

#11 posted 04-21-2013 02:03 PM

I just bought this gun the other day. I would like to spray a spar varnish for a cedar strip canoe. I am wondering if anyone has any expeirence with spraying a varnish. The gun did not come with a viscosity cup. So i am a little confused on how much to thin the material for the 1.4mm nozzle. Any information or tips would be greatly appreciated.

View barryvabeach's profile


159 posts in 3065 days

#12 posted 04-21-2013 07:28 PM

Spar varnish is pretty thick. I would start by thinning 10 % and see how it sprays – if you can’t get a good wet spray, thin another 10 percent, and repeat. If you haven’t tried it for anything else yet, try spraying water – it will give you a feel for how the gun spray should look – like a mist. Also, practice on cardboard or scraps first, and stay away from any sparks or flames because it is flammable.

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