Bandsaw adjustments

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Forum topic by paphman posted 05-26-2010 11:56 PM 1368 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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21 posts in 2916 days

05-26-2010 11:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw

I am new to this site, and to woodworking in general. I purchased a Craftsman 10 inch bandsaw and have a question or two. How do I know when the blade tension is correct, and do the blade guides ever come in to contact with the blade? It came with a 1/4” blade that I can track very well on the wheels. I purchased a 3/16” blade as well, that I am having some trouble with. It wants to vibrate and I can not seem to get it in the middle of the wheel and stay there. When I return to the 1/4” blade there is no problem. Is it the blade or me? Any help will be great. Also how do I find the posts by topic or name? I do not seem to be able to find a way to do this. As you can tell I am new to this, but it seems like fun. Thanks


8 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117086 posts in 3571 days

#1 posted 05-27-2010 12:05 AM

Hi Dale welcome to Ljs
It sounds like you might have a bad blade. How tried another 3/16 blade? You must be doing very tight radii to need a 3/16” blade.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View thatwoodworkingguy's profile


375 posts in 2924 days

#2 posted 05-27-2010 01:04 AM

I agree with jim. jim is the man.

-- ~Eagle America~ ~Woodcraft~

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10476 posts in 3422 days

#3 posted 05-27-2010 01:26 AM

Not all blades are the EXACT same size. I’m sure that Sears has many manufacturers of blades.
Just for kicks, you might compare the size with the original 1/4 blade.
Your tension may be off on the 3/16 blade. (blade is a mite too big in circumference) Sounds like flutter, to me.
One method is to turn it on and increase the tension until the flutter subsides.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3045 days

#4 posted 05-27-2010 02:14 AM


Welcome. I’m new here too and have found this to be a very supportive and helpful bunch of wood freaks. In answer to one of your questions; yes, the blade guides do occasionaly come in contact with the blade. In fact, I ditched the cool block-style guides that came with my saw, made maple guides to replace them, and sandwiched the blade between them in direct contact. The teeth cut a path through, and the body of the blade can’t twist. Make sure they touch evenly on both sides on both top and bottom. Works great. If yours has roller guides, forget the preceeding. You know when the tension is right when you can push the blade no more than 1/4” without making your thumb go white. don’t worry too much about tension. Get it close and cut wood. Tracking on upper wheel is far more important. Aloso,k Your 3/8” blaqde is bad. Check the weld. Probably lumpy. Take it back.

Once again, welcome.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View paphman's profile


21 posts in 2916 days

#5 posted 05-27-2010 03:58 AM

Thanks so much for the info. The measurment guide that Steve posted will be a great help. My wife wants to cut out some wooden flowers, so I thought the 3/16” blade might be a good idea. As Gene said, the increase tension should make the flutter go away. I was not sure how tight to make the blade. I did not want the thing to break. Is it important to have the blade in the middle of the wheel? I could see the blade vibrate, and it cut a somewhat wavey line. It was not the nice cut I got from the 1/4” blade. Thanks again and this looks like it will be a great source of information.


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21 posts in 2916 days

#6 posted 05-27-2010 05:05 AM

One other thing. The 1/4” blade that came with saw has 6 tpi. My question I have is can you get 1/4” blades that have more teeth than this ? Also what is a good brand of blades that I can purchase in a 70 1/2” size? Thanks again.


View CreekWoodworker's profile


409 posts in 3292 days

#7 posted 06-01-2010 09:29 PM

I’ve purchase blades from Sears Online. Sears doesn’t carry the 70 1/2 in the store in my area. There is a noticeable improvement in cutting with the new blade. I’ve read on this site, when you buy a new saw, immediately throw away the blade that came with it. I also know you can buy custom size blades from Woodcraft and prices aren’t that bad.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View live4ever's profile


983 posts in 3004 days

#8 posted 06-01-2010 11:16 PM

Timberwolf has 1/4” blades with 8, 10, and 14 tpi. A 70-1/2” should run you $15 + shipping direct from Suffolk (makers of Twolf blade). TW are also available at many of the usual woodworking stores.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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