LumberJocks

Bandsaw adjustments

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by paphman posted 1555 days ago 928 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View paphman's profile

paphman

21 posts in 1555 days


1555 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw

I am new to this site, and to woodworking in general. I purchased a Craftsman 10 inch bandsaw and have a question or two. How do I know when the blade tension is correct, and do the blade guides ever come in to contact with the blade? It came with a 1/4” blade that I can track very well on the wheels. I purchased a 3/16” blade as well, that I am having some trouble with. It wants to vibrate and I can not seem to get it in the middle of the wheel and stay there. When I return to the 1/4” blade there is no problem. Is it the blade or me? Any help will be great. Also how do I find the posts by topic or name? I do not seem to be able to find a way to do this. As you can tell I am new to this, but it seems like fun. Thanks

Dale


8 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112015 posts in 2210 days


#1 posted 1555 days ago

Hi Dale welcome to Ljs
It sounds like you might have a bad blade. How tried another 3/16 blade? You must be doing very tight radii to need a 3/16” blade.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View thatwoodworkingguy's profile

thatwoodworkingguy

375 posts in 1563 days


#2 posted 1555 days ago

I agree with jim. jim is the man.

-- thatwoodworkingguy.com ~Eagle America~ ~Woodcraft~

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5550 posts in 2061 days


#3 posted 1555 days ago

Dale,
Welcome!
Not all blades are the EXACT same size. I’m sure that Sears has many manufacturers of blades.
Just for kicks, you might compare the size with the original 1/4 blade.
Your tension may be off on the 3/16 blade. (blade is a mite too big in circumference) Sounds like flutter, to me.
One method is to turn it on and increase the tension until the flutter subsides.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1684 days


#4 posted 1555 days ago

Dale,

Welcome. I’m new here too and have found this to be a very supportive and helpful bunch of wood freaks. In answer to one of your questions; yes, the blade guides do occasionaly come in contact with the blade. In fact, I ditched the cool block-style guides that came with my saw, made maple guides to replace them, and sandwiched the blade between them in direct contact. The teeth cut a path through, and the body of the blade can’t twist. Make sure they touch evenly on both sides on both top and bottom. Works great. If yours has roller guides, forget the preceeding. You know when the tension is right when you can push the blade no more than 1/4” without making your thumb go white. don’t worry too much about tension. Get it close and cut wood. Tracking on upper wheel is far more important. Aloso,k Your 3/8” blaqde is bad. Check the weld. Probably lumpy. Take it back.

Once again, welcome.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View paphman's profile

paphman

21 posts in 1555 days


#5 posted 1555 days ago

Thanks so much for the info. The measurment guide that Steve posted will be a great help. My wife wants to cut out some wooden flowers, so I thought the 3/16” blade might be a good idea. As Gene said, the increase tension should make the flutter go away. I was not sure how tight to make the blade. I did not want the thing to break. Is it important to have the blade in the middle of the wheel? I could see the blade vibrate, and it cut a somewhat wavey line. It was not the nice cut I got from the 1/4” blade. Thanks again and this looks like it will be a great source of information.

Dale

View paphman's profile

paphman

21 posts in 1555 days


#6 posted 1555 days ago

One other thing. The 1/4” blade that came with saw has 6 tpi. My question I have is can you get 1/4” blades that have more teeth than this ? Also what is a good brand of blades that I can purchase in a 70 1/2” size? Thanks again.

Dale

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1931 days


#7 posted 1549 days ago

Dale,
I’ve purchase blades from Sears Online. Sears doesn’t carry the 70 1/2 in the store in my area. There is a noticeable improvement in cutting with the new blade. I’ve read on this site, when you buy a new saw, immediately throw away the blade that came with it. I also know you can buy custom size blades from Woodcraft and prices aren’t that bad.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1643 days


#8 posted 1549 days ago

Timberwolf has 1/4” blades with 8, 10, and 14 tpi. A 70-1/2” should run you $15 + shipping direct from Suffolk (makers of Twolf blade). TW are also available at many of the usual woodworking stores.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/silicon_steel_selection.asp

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase