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Repairing hole drilled through face

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Forum topic by DBordello posted 08-06-2016 11:41 PM 559 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


08-06-2016 11:41 PM

Although I was aware (and dreading) of the possibility, while drilling through the edge of a board, I punched out the edge.

What are my repair options? I am planning on finishing it with BLO & Arm-R-Seal. Unfortunately, this is for a crib, and I am under a bit of a time crunch.

Ideas?


24 replies so far

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#1 posted 08-06-2016 11:49 PM

To respond to my post, I have two issues:

1) The burn marks
2) The opening.

Upon further inspection, the hole was too deep anyways (doh!). Therefore, if I can seal the opening, it is okay if I block the opening there.

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ChuckV

2880 posts in 2988 days


#2 posted 08-06-2016 11:55 PM

Not to make light of your problem, but I was greatly relieved to find that you were not seeking medical advice on a woodworking web site. I was prepared to write, “Get to the ER!”.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#3 posted 08-07-2016 12:07 AM

Fair point :)

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#4 posted 08-07-2016 12:32 AM

The best idea I have so far, is to cut out the damaged material, and (attempt) glue in a replacement block?

Thoughts?

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MadMark

977 posts in 914 days


#5 posted 08-07-2016 12:55 AM

Cut 2” off the end …

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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JBrow

817 posts in 381 days


#6 posted 08-07-2016 01:13 AM

DBordello,

There are probably several repair options, though I am not sure any option will completely erase the record of the mistake from the work piece. But my first thought is to find a dowel ideally of the same material as the work piece. If necessary, sweeten the hole so that the dowel will be a nice fit and glue in place. Chisel, plane, scrape, and/or sand the protruding ends of the dowel flush. After the repair, re-drill the hole. While the repair may blend well with the surrounding wood, unfortunately it will probably remain visible, but hopefully only to you.

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#7 posted 08-07-2016 01:18 AM

JBrow,

Not a bad idea. I happened to have a 3/8” plug cutter chucked in the drill press. However, the hole is 13/32”. That being said, a good idea, and not a bad result:

I am going to guess a 13/32” walnut dowel doesn’t exist (or plug cutter). Excellent idea, I think I am going to glue this in place and try sanding it down.

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MadMark

977 posts in 914 days


#8 posted 08-07-2016 01:27 AM

Kreg plug?

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#9 posted 08-07-2016 01:29 AM



Kreg plug?

M

- MadMark

What diameter are those?

I am currently scouring the internet for a 13/32” plug cutter. OR, wondering if I should enlarge it to 7/16”, since those are more common.

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JBrow

817 posts in 381 days


#10 posted 08-07-2016 01:48 AM

DBordello,

The hole looks fairly long and I suspect that after the repair the hole will be re-drilled in the same place. If that is the case, I would think better results would be achieved by purchasing a ½” walnut dowel. A ½” drill bit should follow the existing hole fairly well, so after the defective hole is re-drilled at ½”, the ½” dowel could be glued in place. Doing the repair in this manner would make re-drilling the new hole a little easier and there would be full support around the new properly drilled hole for whatever will go into that hole. I suggest ½” dowel since a 7/16” walnut could be hard to find, but these folks may carry 7/16” walnut dowels.

http://woodproducts.caldowel.com/Dowel-Rods.aspx

My concern with a plug cutter is that the repair would only be at the surface, since the plug will be of limited length. But if you only need a surface repair and the required hole can be drilled in another location, the plug probably would be fine.

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#11 posted 08-07-2016 01:50 AM



DBordello,

The hole looks fairly long and I suspect that after the repair the hole will be re-drilled in the same place. If that is the case, I would think better results would be achieved by purchasing a ½” walnut dowel. A ½” drill bit should follow the existing hole fairly well, so after the defective hole is re-drilled at ½”, the ½” dowel could be glued in place. Doing the repair in this manner would make re-drilling the new hole a little easier and there would be full support around the new properly drilled hole for whatever will go into that hole. I suggest ½” dowel since a 7/16” walnut could be hard to find, but these folks may carry 7/16” walnut dowels.

http://woodproducts.caldowel.com/Dowel-Rods.aspx

My concern with a plug cutter is that the repair would only be at the surface, since the plug will be of limited length. But if you only need a surface repair and the required hole can be drilled in another location, the plug probably would be fine.

- JBrow

Thanks for the suggestion. It appears I drilled the hole longer than it needed to be. Therefore, if I can repair the breached area with a plug, redrilling will not be necessary.

At this point, I am thinking about ordering a 13/32” plug cutter.

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jbay

811 posts in 360 days


#12 posted 08-07-2016 01:54 AM

Maybe a design change. Cut off 2” off each end and add an end piece.

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

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DBordello

132 posts in 687 days


#13 posted 08-07-2016 02:28 AM

I kind of like this…

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Kirk650

289 posts in 209 days


#14 posted 08-07-2016 03:02 AM

I’d use my inlay gear to make a patch.

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GR8HUNTER

1134 posts in 173 days


#15 posted 08-07-2016 03:19 AM



Maybe a design change. Cut off 2” off each end and add an end piece.

- jbay

DITTO

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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