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Forum topic by MurfreesboroCorey posted 05-24-2010 05:44 AM 846 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MurfreesboroCorey

6 posts in 1673 days


05-24-2010 05:44 AM

Topic tags/keywords: joinery mortise tenons joining arts and crafts shaker

I’ll explain the situation and the question will be clear. I have a project in which I need to join frames along their edge to make a box. I can handle the front corners. I intend to simply mitre them and glue them. The back however is the issue. At the back of the box the backpiece will be much taller than the rest of the box so mitering is out. The project is a hall tree if anyone is familiar with that. I need the whole project to be upper class joinery as opposed to pocket holes and screws. I’ll watch this close and can try and clarify if anyone trying to help needs more clarification.
Thanks!


9 replies so far

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a1Jim

112898 posts in 2325 days


#1 posted 05-24-2010 05:52 AM

Welcome to Ljs
I’m kind of confused what you tyring to do.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

15077 posts in 2424 days


#2 posted 05-24-2010 06:01 AM

Why not dovetail it?

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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MurfreesboroCorey

6 posts in 1673 days


#3 posted 05-24-2010 06:10 AM

Dovetails won’t work they will be seen. Basically i need to know if I can make a long (16”) mortise and tenon joint. The hall tree is basically 4 faceframes joined together. The back one being taller than the rest. Can I make the edge of one of my frames a tenon and mortise into the face of the back 3/4” face frame? If that makes sense. Is that too large of a mortise joint? Should I break it up? I guess technicaly this a butt joint but I wanted to reinforce it somehow. Like I said before I usually do pocket hole joinery but won’t work

thanks for the replies. I hope I’m getting clearer. I’ll try and post pics soon.

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TopamaxSurvivor

15077 posts in 2424 days


#4 posted 05-24-2010 06:23 AM

If yoiu are goin gto miter the front, why not miter the back up as high as you need it?

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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MurfreesboroCorey

6 posts in 1673 days


#5 posted 05-24-2010 11:22 PM

Ok … I think the mitering may work. On that topic, is glue enough to hold the whole box together or should I biscuit it or something for more support?

View interpim's profile

interpim

1133 posts in 2207 days


#6 posted 05-24-2010 11:26 PM

or you could use loose tenons along the length you want to join.

Cut out your mortises in adjoining pieces… depending on the length you need to go, if it’s say 12” maybe put 3 2” loose tenons along the length each side.

-- San Diego, CA

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MurfreesboroCorey

6 posts in 1673 days


#7 posted 05-24-2010 11:38 PM

Would I then glue the whole joint? Or just the loose tenons? Would this also work for traditional mortise and tenon joinery but just have 3-4 spaced tenons instead of one long one? And the glue question applies to this joint as well.

Thanks again for all the replies. It’s nice to have a sounding board of fellow woodworkers.

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

448 posts in 1753 days


#8 posted 05-24-2010 11:38 PM

Miter the front corners and but join the back one between the two side frames using biscuits. Is there a top and bottom in the lower box?

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View MurfreesboroCorey's profile

MurfreesboroCorey

6 posts in 1673 days


#9 posted 05-25-2010 12:42 AM

The side pieces actually have to butt against the face of the backpiece. And yes there’s a lid attached to the back that sits on the sides and front.

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