Need some advice on materials

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Forum topic by Greg Spencer posted 05-22-2010 08:20 PM 1055 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Greg Spencer

14 posts in 2536 days

05-22-2010 08:20 PM

Howdy, folks. Well, this summer and fall I’ll be doing some hardcore restoration work on the exterior of our 1851 home. I’m going to be rebuilding the trough gutters/eaves on the front and back of the old pile and I need to replace about a dozen of the corbels that hold them up. They’re not overly intricate, but they’re big and they’re about 3 inches thick, so I’m going to have to laminate some wood to match that and that’s my problem. They are Southern Pine, from what I can tell, so I was planning on using the same specie, since it seems to have held out well for all those years, but I’m not quite sure what type of adhesive I should use to do the laminating work. I’d hate to have them start separating after a few years. I’d really appreciate hearing about your experiences with projects like this and your advice.


-- "If you're so damned smart, why ain't you rich..?"

9 replies so far

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5100 posts in 2612 days

#1 posted 05-22-2010 09:01 PM

Greetings Gregor, If I were going to build the corbels, I’d use Titebond III. It is a waterproof glue. If the corbels are going to be exposed to a lot of weather like rain and snow, I’d probably use a marine finish on them since they are pine, or a good exterior waterproof latex paint, depending on the finish you’re after. Some will say nay to the glue, and suggest a weatherproof caulk , but I’ve made a thing or two for outside, used the TBIII, and they are still holding up. Really depends on what you’re after in terms of bond and looks. The choice is either glue or caulk.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View studie's profile


618 posts in 2565 days

#2 posted 05-22-2010 09:13 PM

I have made some and were in the Northwest I use Douglas Fir. It’s strong and with a good primer & paint or Sikkens finish will last a long time. Since you have many to make I would make a pattern from 1/4” ply or MDF then use a pattern bit in a router after cutting close to the line on a bandsaw or jigsaw. I also suggest alternating the grain of the wood so as to make it stronger after lamination. Titebond 3 or Gorilla glue are both waterproof but Gorilla glue is more costly and can be very messy too.

-- $tudie

View Greg Spencer's profile

Greg Spencer

14 posts in 2536 days

#3 posted 05-22-2010 09:29 PM

Thanks, guys! Good idea about the template and pattern bit, I had my head geared for hours of intricate band saw work.
They will be painted, I was planning on using an alkyd primer and latex over that. Not sure of the color yet, me and the missus are butting heads over the paint scheme.
This is going to be one heck of a project.

-- "If you're so damned smart, why ain't you rich..?"

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2492 days

#4 posted 05-22-2010 09:50 PM

Both titebond III and gorilla are waterproof. However, when I built an ipe deck over 10 years ago, I used an actual marine glue. It has proven itself over the last 10 years. You apply with a caulking gun and it would be quite a bit cheaper than TB or gorilla.

In my opinion, if you want something that will hold up to the weather, the gold standard is ipe.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3636 days

#5 posted 05-22-2010 10:12 PM

I don’t know where you are located, but if you are in the south, and those corbels have held up this long, they just might be cypress. In weathered condition they look a lot alike, but cypress will last outdoors forever. Pine will eventually rot on you. Just something to think about.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View huff's profile


2828 posts in 2703 days

#6 posted 05-23-2010 02:56 PM

Very good Charlie! I was thinking the same thing. I’ve used Cypress before and it’s a great wood to work with for outdoors. I would think the titebondIII would be good, unless you could find some 12/4 stock and you wouldn’t have to glue at all.

-- John @

View Greg Spencer's profile

Greg Spencer

14 posts in 2536 days

#7 posted 05-23-2010 05:09 PM

Huff, I went to the local lumberyard and asked them about stock of that size and they looked at me like I was nuts. I’m in central New Jersey, so most of the “lumberyards” are more interested in selling decking material, overpriced doors and job lot lumber that would make better corkscrews than anything else. I had to go through hell just getting what I wanted for an Arts and Crafts mantel for my living room last year, I can imagine it’s neigh impossible to get anything like 12/4 cypress. Yikes.
Any thoughts on yellow poplar? I can get that with no problems and I love working it.

-- "If you're so damned smart, why ain't you rich..?"

View Gofor's profile


470 posts in 3205 days

#8 posted 05-25-2010 03:23 AM

I would advise against using alkyd primer unless you fully seal all sides before putting them up. Alkyd or other oil based will peel when the moisture gets into the wood behind it. I would suggest using a latex primer if using a latex top coat. Also, caulk the seams well.

If you are dead set on using the alkyd primer, let it dry at least a week before putting latex over it. Alkyd needs air to finish fully curing. The moisture from the latex topcoat will also inhibit the primer from fully curing.


-- Go

View Greg Spencer's profile

Greg Spencer

14 posts in 2536 days

#9 posted 05-25-2010 02:09 PM

Thanks, Gofor, I didn’t know that about alkyd primers, it explains a lot about some of the paint peeling that has happened around my place. Damn.
I have to stop reading the info on labels and start talking to you folks more.
I think I’m going to end up using laminated Southern Yellow Pine, it’s about the least expensive way to go.

-- "If you're so damned smart, why ain't you rich..?"

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