Making a push block

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Forum topic by Spitfire1 posted 08-03-2016 04:01 AM 1051 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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57 posts in 888 days

08-03-2016 04:01 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question

I am wanting to make some push blocks similar to the one pictured for use on my table saw. I have several that I bought but I am not truly happy with any of them. My question is how do I cut the bottom of this jig with the notch? I don’t own a handsaw which seems like the simple solution.


11 replies so far

View Kirk650's profile


567 posts in 898 days

#1 posted 08-03-2016 04:07 AM

I cut similar push blocks from scrap pieces of 2X12 pine. I just do them rather rough, using the band saw and smooth the edges with a sander. No need to be fancy. If you don’t have a hand saw or a bandsaw, you can buy either one or drive down to Texas and I’ll give you a couple of extras I have.

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Rick Dennington

6179 posts in 3343 days

#2 posted 08-03-2016 04:41 AM

Just go ahead and cut out the push block, cut the bottom straight across, and then make a little “foot” or “heel” (as some call it), and glue it on….The push block needs to be at least a 1/2” to 3/4” thick for it to work….1/4” would be too thin….Easy peesy…nice and easy..!!

-- " It's a rat race out there, and the rats are winning....!!"

View MrUnix's profile


6949 posts in 2348 days

#3 posted 08-03-2016 06:25 AM

You could cut the notch on the table saw if you are careful (think miter gauge or crosscut sled). But – how are you going to get the curved top? Hopefully, it’s not going to be sanded to shape from a rectangle! Whatever you use to cut the top curved area could be used to cut the notch as well. And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:

The Best Push Stick!
(thanks to Izzy Swan)


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View ScottM's profile


682 posts in 2296 days

#4 posted 08-03-2016 12:15 PM

... And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:

The Best Push Stick!
(thanks to Izzy Swan)


- MrUnix

I’ve tried both designs and prefer the OP’s as well. Something about the hand position just feels better to me. Just a preference. As for cutting the notch, I think those are covered; handsaw, table saw, jig saw, etc.

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2596 days

#5 posted 08-03-2016 01:44 PM

The naked lady push stick will eventually come up but I always liked the original design the best :

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View muleskinner's profile


898 posts in 2586 days

#6 posted 08-03-2016 02:03 PM

I’m with MrUnix. The humpback version looks awkward to me and doesn’t seem like it would afford as good a grip as this version.

And the notch? Get a a handsaw for heavens sake. That’s like a mechanic not having a screwdriver.

-- Visualize whirled peas

View Dan's profile


722 posts in 2041 days

#7 posted 08-03-2016 02:20 PM

-- Dan

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1276 posts in 2259 days

#8 posted 08-03-2016 02:35 PM

I don’t even round the hump, mine are simply MDF rectangles with a roundover run along the top edges. Sometimes, I’m too lazy to cut the roundover… ;^)

Why do I do this? They’re consumables… As the “peg” gets eaten, cut down for tnin stock, or the bottom gets too grooved, I simply rip it off (using the parallel edge I’m too lazy to shape) and cut a new notch. When they get too thin and no longer keep my hand far enough from the blade, they’re trash.

With a long gripping area along the top, the user can also vary the grip depending on the operation. Sometimes, small and narrow parts are better with the grip centered.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3175 posts in 3380 days

#9 posted 08-03-2016 02:40 PM

When I bought my Grizzly 1023 table saw, the manual had the plan for one in the back. You could always download the manual and check it out.

I made my push stick out of two pieces of 3/4 plywood. It is a sacrificial push stick. I don’t mind pushing it over the blade when it protrudes above the material a little. I can always make another one. Works good for ripping narrow pieces from the wider stuff because the stick will push both pieces through and past the blade. Never any problems.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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5919 posts in 2415 days

#10 posted 08-03-2016 03:05 PM

You’ve got a project that requires a tool you don’t have. Sounds like a good excuse to spend some money. Who knows you might find 2 or 3 other tools you could use down the road.

View rwe2156's profile (online now)


3095 posts in 1630 days

#11 posted 08-03-2016 04:07 PM

I just use a piece of 2×4 or 2×6.
You can screw a cleat on the rear (I usually use hardwood & be sure screw won’t hit blade!)

As they get chewed up, I take the cleat off, re-rip the bottom, and put on a new cleat.
A 2×6 will last forever.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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