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Finishing with epoxy

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Forum topic by Sparky3471 posted 08-01-2016 02:32 PM 276 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sparky3471

2 posts in 129 days


08-01-2016 02:32 PM

Topic tags/keywords: epoxy stain finishing shelves

Hey guys ameture wood worker here. Sill enjoying the learning practice. My wife brought home some slats of wood she found online with a really nice live edge and wants to finish them with a stain and then epoxy and use them for shelves. I’ve never done epoxy so in have a few questions. I’m going to plane the wood scrape the bark away and clean the edge up. Looking on the steps required to go from stain to epoxy and what sealants and products I should use
I have read that epoxy does not like oil based stains? Is there a way to seal the stain then epoxy over it? Or any alternatives as she really wants to match the stain we have on cabinets allready in the room


4 replies so far

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brtech

903 posts in 2387 days


#1 posted 08-01-2016 07:47 PM

Why epoxy? Usually we use poly on live edge slab pieces. Lots of thin coats. Use gloss for all but the last coat, and then the last coat can be whatever sheen you want. Poly goes over stain easily.

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#2 posted 08-01-2016 09:35 PM

+1 on the “Why Epoxy” question.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Sparky3471

2 posts in 129 days


#3 posted 08-01-2016 11:15 PM

thanks for the advice, the reason for epoxy was I liked the look and know that it gives a nice thick finish, I’m all for poly if it is the better option though I was never fully sold on epoxy. a couple questions though regarding a nice finish with poly.
how fine grit should I sand the wood before stain to?
how many layers of poly would you recommend?
what if any sanding is required between the poly coats and of what grit? also what surface prep is required after sanding before the next poly coat?
what is the reason for using high gloss poly for everything but the final coat?
thanks in advance guys I’m definitely new to the higher finishing world but love the look that is possible

View BobAnderton's profile

BobAnderton

219 posts in 2255 days


#4 posted 08-02-2016 03:15 AM

Hey Sparky, I’ll take a stab at your good list of questions.

the reason for epoxy was I liked the look and know that it gives a nice thick finish

So, I understand that personal preference is personal and all, but a lot of folks come to the conclusion that they don’t want the wood to look like it’s encased in plastic, they want the wood to look and feel like wood. Towards that end (which I understand maybe isn’t what you’re looking for) I’d go for something like Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane topcoat wiped on, or maybe a few coats of thin wipe on poly.

how fine grit should I sand the wood before stain to?

up to about 220 should be fine

how many layers of poly would you recommend?

The more layers the thicker it will look. Wipe on will be thinner than brush on types. For shelves that aren’t going to see major wear I’d go for a few coats of wipe on. If you want a thicker finish look maybe up to 5 coats of a brush on poly.

what if any sanding is required between the poly coats and of what grit? also what surface prep is required after sanding before the next poly coat?

Sand between coats with something fine, like 400 or 600, lightly. Just to take down the high spots of raised grain or dust nibs and scuff the surface. Then you’re ready for the next coat.

what is the reason for using high gloss poly for everything but the final coat?

Gloss finish doesn’t have the fillers that satin or semigloss finishes have to roughen the surface of the finish. The problem with many coats of satin or semigloss finishes is that the finish can end up looking muddy or dull, hence the suggestion to use gloss for all but the last coat. Alternatively, you can use gloss for all the coats and knock the gloss down by sanding the final coat with lubricated (mineral oil/mineral spirits mixed 50/50) 2000 grit paper.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

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