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Forum topic by Spitfire1 posted 07-29-2016 02:24 AM 567 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Spitfire1

31 posts in 206 days


07-29-2016 02:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: hand plane veritas setup question

I am curious what needs to be done to setup a new Veritas Bench Plane?

I’ve been seriously contemplating purchasing a Veritas #5 1/4 bench plane. I feel perhaps this would be a great all around plane to start with for smoothing and prep work. (Please correct me if I am wrong on this). I do own a couple hand planes already. I bought three for $40 at a garage sale. A green Craftsman block plane which works great after much work to restore it, a Stanley Defiance Smoothing plane which I haven’t tried restoring yet and another Stanley smoothing plane which I can’t seem to adjust correctly for the life of me. I am not sure the model of it. Anyhow I haven’t given up on hand planes and thinking of buying a new one to hone my skills.


22 replies so far

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 953 days


#1 posted 07-29-2016 03:28 AM

On a newer one it’s usually just polishing the back of the iron, cambering or relieving the edges of the iron and honing.

I don’t think I’d suggest a 5-1/4. I’d go with a regular 5 setup with a little camber to where it can rough but be dialed back a hair to do some smoothing as well.

I don’t think the defiance line is thought of highly.

As far as the Stanley smoother, I hope it’s not a blue one. I relieve the edges and put a hair of camber on my smoothers.

Take pics of the planes and show us what you have.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Spitfire1

31 posts in 206 days


#2 posted 07-29-2016 04:36 AM

How do you go about putting a camber on the blade?

Yes the other Stanley is a blue one.

I definitely will take some pics next chance I get.

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Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#3 posted 07-29-2016 11:07 AM

What’s meant by AND prep work? That’s two different planes typically.

A #5 1/4 would be ok for prep, but as Fridge said, you may be better off with a #5.

However some do like the 5 1/4 for something more like a scrub.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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OSU55

1063 posts in 1457 days


#4 posted 07-29-2016 11:46 AM

Most any Stanley Bailey pattern plane, properly tuned, can do the “and prep work”. I own a lot of planes, none are 5-1/4, and not on any list. One could be set up for scrub work, but it would be a $5-$10 one, not a Veritas. I use a cheap SB4 for occasional scrub type work, and a #5 for jack work, a #7 for jointing and large panel flattening. I prefer a 4-1/2 for smoothing, but a 4 works also. All of these are refurbished. For smoothing, the standard 45° bevel down bench plane, including LN and Veritas versions, work up to a point. They start to tear out with reversing, figured grain. It depends on the wood type and grain structure. That’s when a high cutting angle is needed, whether a higher frog angle, low angle smoother with high bevel, high angle woodie, scraping plane, cabinet scraper, or card scraper is needed.

I’d recommend reserving premium $’s for premium brands for a high angle smoother. My personal pick is a Veritas 4-1/2 Custom plane with a 55° frog. Including a 40° frog makes it an end grain/shooting board plane.

As for your original question – set up of a new Veritas hand plane – not a lot needs to be done. Clean it with mineral sprits to remove RP, use your favorite RP on all cast surfaces (I use Alox), wax all moving surfaces and the sole (I don’t use oil on planes, just collects dust) Check the back of the blade for flatness, polish the last ~1/4” of the back, sharpen the blade however you do it, and go to work. My personal prep is more involved, but isn’t “needed”. The sole edged get rounded and sliding components get larger, smoother break edges and the sliding edges get 600 grit sandpaper passed over them, and everything gets waxed. Just helps everything move that much smoother.

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Clarkie

380 posts in 1308 days


#5 posted 07-29-2016 01:26 PM

Hello spitfire, I would encourage you to go after the older quality planes, Stanley/Bailey. The planes you scored at that garage sale are bad examples of a good plane, they were made for the weekend carpenter who knew no better. Look for a Stanley 3, 4 and 5, then go on to getting the 7 and maybe an 8. You’ll see a tremendous amount of difference once you have these planes set up right. There are numerous you tube series on taking care of the hand planes. Have fun, make some dust.

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Kirk650

294 posts in 215 days


#6 posted 07-29-2016 04:11 PM

You could just buy a new Veritas plane, either bevel up type or bevel down. No tune up required, other than honing the plane iron, if that’s even necessary. I’d get a 4 or a 5, but probably the 4. I have a bevel up 4 and it gets a pretty good bit of work, and the iron holds a good edge. That’ll get you working quickly, and without the hassle of tuning up an old and probably lower quality plane.

Of course, some folks would rather tune up an old plane than buy a new one, and I’ve done that too. If that’s your objective, find a decent quality plane. Flatten the sole, throw away the old plane iron and get a new iron of modern steel.

Or, you can get lucky and buy a used plane from a guy that has good planes. I bought a Record #5 from a buddy, and it was not cheap, but I took it home and found that it had a new Hock blade and was perfectly tuned. It was fantastic and cut the prettiest shavings you ever saw. I quit griping about the price.

View Spitfire1's profile

Spitfire1

31 posts in 206 days


#7 posted 07-29-2016 08:41 PM

I guess I need to consider what I’ll be using a Handplane for the most. When I think of it I’ll be using them to remove machining marks. As many of you have suggested a no.4 seems to be the best match.

Ya I guess my garage sale wasn’t such a steal but I did get a good block plane at least.

This the leads to a whole new series of questions. The options seem a bit overwhelming. There’s a no.4, no.4-1/2, low angle option, a bevel up option.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#8 posted 07-29-2016 08:49 PM

$40 for the 3 planes may not have been a steal, but it’s still a decent deal. A defiance is not a bad plane. I don’t care for the lateral adjuster, but that’sa cosmetic thing.

I’d suggest a plain old tuned up Vintage to start with. There is lots and lots of them, lots and lots of information about them, and if you buy a good one (not necessarily new or expensive) but good, you’ll probably keep it for the rest of your life.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#9 posted 07-29-2016 08:52 PM

Wrong thread!!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1063 posts in 1457 days


#10 posted 07-29-2016 11:55 PM



I guess I need to consider what I ll be using a Handplane for the most. When I think of it I ll be using them to remove machining marks. As many of you have suggested a no.4 seems to be the best match.

This the leads to a whole new series of questions. The options seem a bit overwhelming. There s a no.4, no.4-1/2, low angle option, a bevel up option.

- Spitfire1

Removing machining marks pretty much puts you in the smoother category – 4 or 4-1/2. You can never go wrong with a 4, it can be used for a lot of stuff – see Paul Sellers. A #80 cabinet scraper can do a lot with figured grain, and can be the fallback when a Bailey plane just can’t keep from tearing out. A lot depends on you – do you like to refurb planes, or spend $? Personally, I just can’t bring myself to spend $ on premium planes that aren’t that much better than a refurb Bailey – and they don’t need thicker blades or chipbreakers if tuned and sharpened properly. Yes, the adjustments on the high $ planes are tighter etc., but the result on the wood isn’t much different.

Low angle and bevel up smoothing planes are the same thing. I have a Veritas, and yes, it’s about as good as it gets for a smoother. The Custom planes weren’t available when I bought it. I have a Mujingfang woodie from Japan Woodworker with a 2” 63° HSS blade for about $80 total that does wonderful work, but I had to learn how to tune it, adjust it, and sharpen the HSS to get a razor edge. Here's my take on getting started with hand planes. I think it’s better to take it a bit slow and easy, especially from a $ standpoint and learn. But, if a person has the $ to burn, jump right in.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 953 days


#11 posted 07-30-2016 12:07 AM

Sounds like a 4 or 4-1/2 to me. I’d suggest a 4 to start.

Camber is just a founding of the iron. Whether it be almost imperceptible or very noticeable like a scrub.

Easing the edges. My irons all have it. I’ll take a pic in a little while.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 948 days


#12 posted 07-30-2016 02:44 PM

I suggest take that money and buy a #4 first.
Take that 4 and make it a scrub plane.

Planes for prep work don’t have to be super quality.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Spitfire1

31 posts in 206 days


#13 posted 08-01-2016 01:07 AM

My Stanley Defiance

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Spitfire1

31 posts in 206 days


#14 posted 08-01-2016 02:41 AM

Stanley Blue plane. Never been able to get it properly tuned up.

!https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/ob7m3yy.jpg!

Craftsman Block Plane

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MyAmericanToolbox

4 posts in 131 days


#15 posted 08-01-2016 03:16 AM

I found this hand-drawn instruction manual from Stanley. Looks to be from the 20’s or 30’s. Explains Bed Rock & Bailey planes, plane iron grinding and whetting and assembly. Here’s the link to the copy on my Google Drive.

Stanley Plan Manual

Here’s one I’m working on now…

-- Please buy American tools whenever possible. Visit my collection of US tools at myamericantoolbox.blogspot.com

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