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Can't Get My Grizzley 8in Jointer to start

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Forum topic by nathan1342 posted 07-24-2016 01:46 PM 1054 views 0 times favorited 46 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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nathan1342

11 posts in 135 days


07-24-2016 01:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer motor wont start doesnt start grizzley

I have a 8 year old Model: G0656XW jointer with spiral cutter. The other day i went to turn it on and nothing happened. I checked the power to the unit, the switch and both were functioning normally. I then proceeded to check the motor. I pulled out the start capacitor and tested it and it tested fine. I even ordered a new one just in case and didn’t fix it. I pull apart the motor and checked the centripetal switch and it also tested good or at least i think it did. What’s strange though is when i put the start capacitor back on and test it, it doesn’t charge, its almost like the circuit is already closed so the capacitor can’t charge enough to do anything. What am i wonder is if the start capacitor is connected normally and i run my ohm meter through it should the capacitor charge enough to give me a read out on my ohm meter? Let me know if I should be checking anything else.


46 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4217 posts in 1661 days


#1 posted 07-24-2016 01:55 PM

The cap will (should) start at a very low resistance value and move towards infinity. You have to disconnect it first (and short the terminals before putting your meter on it). A quick-n-dirty test to see if it’s your start circuit is to spin the motor by hand and hit the start switch while it’s still rotating.

This may help: How to Test a Capacitor?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#2 posted 07-24-2016 02:05 PM

Do you hear the starter engagaging whenever you hit the start button?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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nathan1342

11 posts in 135 days


#3 posted 07-24-2016 02:12 PM

I did disconnect it, short it and then tested it. I saw it go towards infinity slowly when connected to my ohm meter. I did try to spin the motor and hit the start button but I can’t spin it fast enough. But I did get a brand new replacement cap from grizzley and still the same. But I’m wondering how does the capcitor charge so when you hit the start button it discharges? If i test it while it’s hooked up it the cap doesn’t seem to charge but shouldn’t it?

I don’t hear anything when I hit the start button. Everything is quite as the grave.

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#4 posted 07-24-2016 02:18 PM

try resetting the overloads.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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MrUnix

4217 posts in 1661 days


#5 posted 07-24-2016 02:18 PM

Then it’s not the cap. And you don’t need to spin the motor by hand fast, just get it moving.

The capacitor is in circuit when the motor is stopped. It is switched out of circuit via the centrifugal switch disengaging once enough speed is obtained. Sounds like a power problem… did you check voltage at the motor? Fridge has a good idea as well. Did you check voltages at the starter (does it have one?).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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bbrewer71

13 posts in 135 days


#6 posted 07-24-2016 02:58 PM


I have a 8 year old Model: G0656XW jointer with spiral cutter. The other day i went to turn it on and nothing happened. I checked the power to the unit, the switch and both were functioning normally. I then proceeded to check the motor. I pulled out the start capacitor and tested it and it tested fine. I even ordered a new one just in case and didn t fix it. I pull apart the motor and checked the centripetal switch and it also tested good or at least i think it did. What s strange though is when i put the start capacitor back on and test it, it doesn t charge, its almost like the circuit is already closed so the capacitor can t charge enough to do anything. What am i wonder is if the start capacitor is connected normally and i run my ohm meter through it should the capacitor charge enough to give me a read out on my ohm meter? Let me know if I should be checking anything else.

- nathan1342

Nathan, can you please post a picture of the original cap and the new one? According to the OEM magic juice map, this should have either a dual cap (run/start capacitor) or two separate but equally important capacitors.

#1 How long has your boat anchor been in service?

#2 How long has it been since it was still a jointer and not a boat anchor?

#3 Has anything in your arboreal conclave changed since you last performed a squaring ritual?

#4 Has your wife or female partner (or male partner for that matter, who are we to judge) had access to your lair. If yours is like mine and thinks you love your tools more than her, mine is correct by the way. Then she may have “say boat tajed” it in a fit of jealous rage.

On a serious note though, if you could post a pic and let me know about the number of capacitors I maybe be able to help. I gots me lots of experience troubleshooting machines via text and phone calls.

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pintodeluxe

4853 posts in 2275 days


#7 posted 07-24-2016 10:29 PM

Mag switch bad?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View JayDee70's profile

JayDee70

19 posts in 780 days


#8 posted 07-24-2016 11:43 PM

WARNING – Be extremely careful around AC power.
I know nothing about this joiner except what I can find on line. According to the operators manual it is a 220v sngl phase machine and it does not appear to use a starter, only a simple On/Off paddle switch. It has been my experience in my shop as well as others in other forums I post in that most of the time a dead motor is the result of dust infiltration into the On/Off switch. I have repaired at least 6 machines, mine and others, by simply opening up the switch and blowing out the dust. My first check would be to verify that single phase 220 is coming out of the switch when the switch is on.

To check that power is coming to the motor from the switch, MAKE SURE the machine is OFF, open up the wiring access panel on the motor, connect a volt meter to the two(2) power wires coming from the switch, probably red and black. There may also be a third wire, usually green, not needed for this check. When the meter is hooked up turn the switch on for a few seconds and see if your meter reads around 220 volts. If you do read between one of the power wires and the green(ground) wire you will most likely read 110 volts, both power leads should read 110 volts to ground but checking it is not needed. The 220 is all you need to check for. If there is no 220v then turn the switch off. Unplug the machine, open up the switch box, connect your meter to the power leads coming from your power cord coming into the box. The power cord may have red, black, and green or black, white, and green wires, which ever it has hook your meter between the two that are not green then plug the cord in. If you see 220 volts you need to repair/replace the switch, if not then the cord or other down stream wiring is bad, maybe a bad/tripped breaker.
Let us know what you find.

-- JD, KY, www.jnjwoodsmithing.com On FaceBook at https://www.facebook.com/jnjwoodsmith

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JayDee70

19 posts in 780 days


#9 posted 07-24-2016 11:53 PM

WARNING – Be extremely careful around AC power.
BTW the starting capacitor is used as a phase shiftier and does not actually charge in the usual sense that you may be thinking. In an AC circuit it is constantly changing its charge from positive to negative back to positive at a 60 cycle rate. The chances of you seeing it “charged” with a meter are very slim. The info given above on checking the cap with an Ohm meter is all you really need to do to check one. To check and verify a “charge” you would have to disconnect it from the circuit the instant the AC voltage reached a peak either positive or negative, in any-case the presence of a charge on it after disconnecting it from the circuit would mean very little to the trouble shooting scenario. In the case of checking the cap for a “charge” with the power turned off, if the power went off on a peak it will have most likely discharged itself within just a second or less through the start coil the instant the starter/centrifugal switch re-engages as the motor slows to a stop. Typically if the cap is bad the motor does not start AND a noticeable humm can be heard. If you are not hearing any sound from the motor and it will not start by hand then most likely it is not the cap but missing 220 power.

-- JD, KY, www.jnjwoodsmithing.com On FaceBook at https://www.facebook.com/jnjwoodsmith

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DirtyMike

451 posts in 364 days


#10 posted 07-25-2016 01:29 AM

hey nathan, search you tube for grizzly table saw switch. It was a guy in a basement that had something similar happening with his saw.

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nathan1342

11 posts in 135 days


#11 posted 07-25-2016 02:24 AM

Thanks for all the responses. I purchased this jointer practically unused from an older gentleman who was transitioning out of woodworking. Got it home and it was working great, maybe put only 10 hours on it max. I moved across town and trucked it with me. It sat for about 6 months since I had my second child and didn’t have time for woodworking. Finally got things on a schedule and decided to start on some projects. Went to flatten some 12/4 black walnut, hit the on button and nothing. It worked across town, brought it to my new house and nothing. I initally thought I wired the 220 outlet wrong but as you can see in the video below, the voltage tests fine all the way to the motor.

It has two caps, run capacitor and a start capacitor. I haven’t tested the run cap since the wire nut are the compression type so its more difficult to remove. But I would think, and maybe this is wrong, but it would at least attempt to start before the run cap kicks in.

Really the setup is super simple, there ins’t a lot that can go wrong. But please take a look at the video below and let me know if I’m missing something or should be testing something else. I”ve also taken off each wire nut and made sure the connection was secure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdCTrks_TFA

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nashranch

46 posts in 1520 days


#12 posted 07-25-2016 02:47 AM

In the video i see 120v to ground on both sides but do you get 220 v between the two hot leads? You might have a bad breaker or one side of the breaker is tripped. Seen it many times

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nathan1342

11 posts in 135 days


#13 posted 07-25-2016 03:11 AM



In the video i see 120v to ground on both sides but do you get 220 v between the two hot leads? You might have a bad breaker or one side of the breaker is tripped. Seen it many times

- nashranch

Well shoot, you might be right. I get nothing when testing from hot to hot. Does that mean my breaker is the issue?

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nashranch

46 posts in 1520 days


#14 posted 07-25-2016 03:42 AM

Ya probably..if yer careful you can check power right at the breaker terminals…but first try turning breaker off and resetting it ..then back on and see if that works

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nashranch

46 posts in 1520 days


#15 posted 07-25-2016 03:43 AM


hope that does it

- nashranch


showing 1 through 15 of 46 replies

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