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Anyone using the BORK Riving knife?

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Forum topic by Joon1911 posted 07-22-2016 04:04 PM 614 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joon1911

6 posts in 157 days


07-22-2016 04:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw safety jigs fixtures mods riving knife

Hello all,

I did a search of the past posts and haven’t seen any newer posts of people using the BORK bolt on Riving knife. I have been seriously considering buying one of these for my Jet JTS-12 contractors saw. I have on and off thought about selling my saw and buying a Sawstop but can’t really justify the expense for the safety features especially considering how much I use the saw. I want to be safe and keep all my fingers so I thought adding a guard like this which I would actually use on a consistent basis would be a good alternative.

Anyone, do any of you users have any feedback positive or otherwise?

Many thanks in advance.


10 replies so far

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

6476 posts in 2065 days


#1 posted 07-22-2016 07:20 PM

Micro Jig sells a splitter kit as well. I do not have any experience with either, but seems like more information and reviews are out there on the Micro Jig splitter compared to the BORK system. The cost is significantly less on the Micro Jig too.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2192 posts in 1492 days


#2 posted 07-24-2016 01:28 AM

knotscott uses a BORK. Check out his comments on it. By the way, it is not a guard, and is only for preventing kickback (same as a riving knife, though some of them will take a guard as an attachment). Also check out the Shark Guard (Leeway Workshops). He has various guards and riving knives.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2843 days


#3 posted 07-24-2016 11:26 AM

I’ve had the BORK on my Shop Fox W1677 since August 2008….it was one of the early offerings he made. It’s always worked well for me once installed and setup correctly, but Bob Ross has made several nice design improvements to it nonetheless. He’s upgraded the metal of the knife to stainless steel, changed the slot that holds it in place to prevent lifting, he’s added an installation guide to get the spacing perfect without trial and error, and a few other things that he could explain better than I can. For a guy who has an older pre-riving knife saw, it’s a great addition that essentially gives you the benefits of a riving knife. Been really happy with mine.

my BORK and blade guard

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Joon1911's profile

Joon1911

6 posts in 157 days


#4 posted 07-24-2016 11:45 AM

Thanks for the feedback knotscott,

My search for a safety solution actually first led to your review, so full circle. I’ve tried to contact Bob to ask if it would work on my saw via his website a couple times now and haven’t had a response back. Hopefully he’s still making these. I want to order, but until I have confirmation that it’ll work with my saw I’m a little hesitant to order.

Thanks again

View BorkBob's profile

BorkBob

124 posts in 2159 days


#5 posted 07-24-2016 03:45 PM

Joon,

I haven’t looked to see if your saw is 10” or 12” (JTS-12). The BORK will work for you if your saw is 10”.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

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Joon1911

6 posts in 157 days


#6 posted 07-24-2016 11:45 PM

BorkBob, my Jet is a JTS-12 but I never use anything other than a 10” blade. Will it not work then?

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BorkBob

124 posts in 2159 days


#7 posted 07-25-2016 01:18 AM

The mounting arm and the length/arc of t he splitter are sized for 10” blades only. The mounting arm is clamped or U-bolted to the saw’s arbor bracket and I do not know if a 12” saw’s arbor bracket will lend itself to this method.

Based on the parts schematic I will say it “might” work but I’m reluctant because I can’t be there to ensure a safe installation.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1213 posts in 1577 days


#8 posted 07-27-2016 02:51 PM

Before you buy a guard attached to a riving knife, consider the fact that the most important add-ons to a table saw, sleds and fence riding jigs, do not work with such a guard. They also can be a PITA with narrow rips, and have to come off for rabbet and dado work.

You really only need the knife for rips, but you need the guard as often as it can be installed without fouling the operation. Neither help you when not on the saw, and the less transparent to the user and time consuming to remove and replace, the less time they will spend installed. Eventually, you’ll probably stop using them all together, if they aren’t super fast on and off.

That said, consider spending the money for an overarm guard that swings away and back into place as easily as possible, and a splitter or riving knife that can be left in place as often as possible.

I’ve been using an Excalibur guard, and first a snap-in splitter, then a true riving knife, for almost 15 years. The setup is so easy to use, neither item is never left off the saw when they won’t interfere with the operation. Before I had such a setup, my guard and splitter spent 95% of it’s time off the saw.

Work safely!

View Joon1911's profile

Joon1911

6 posts in 157 days


#9 posted 08-01-2016 05:31 PM



Micro Jig sells a splitter kit as well. I do not have any experience with either, but seems like more information and reviews are out there on the Micro Jig splitter compared to the BORK system. The cost is significantly less on the Micro Jig too.

- ShaneA

Shane,

I’ve considered using the Microjig splitters over the years especially now that they offer a steel reinforced splitter but the one issue that this product doesn’t address is the sheer amount of real estate between it and the end of the blade…especially when the blade is only a 1/2” to 3/4” exposed. I’ve used custom zero clearance throat plates with hardwood splitters sized spaced for specific blade heights as suggested in the FWW podcast but I’d like something a bit more substantial.

View Joon1911's profile

Joon1911

6 posts in 157 days


#10 posted 08-01-2016 05:35 PM



Before you buy a guard attached to a riving knife, consider the fact that the most important add-ons to a table saw, sleds and fence riding jigs, do not work with such a guard. They also can be a PITA with narrow rips, and have to come off for rabbet and dado work.

You really only need the knife for rips, but you need the guard as often as it can be installed without fouling the operation. Neither help you when not on the saw, and the less transparent to the user and time consuming to remove and replace, the less time they will spend installed. Eventually, you ll probably stop using them all together, if they aren t super fast on and off.

That said, consider spending the money for an overarm guard that swings away and back into place as easily as possible, and a splitter or riving knife that can be left in place as often as possible.

I ve been using an Excalibur guard, and first a snap-in splitter, then a true riving knife, for almost 15 years. The setup is so easy to use, neither item is never left off the saw when they won t interfere with the operation. Before I had such a setup, my guard and splitter spent 95% of it s time off the saw.

Work safely!

- OggieOglethorpe

Thanks for the feedback Oggie,

Definitely something to think about. By my own experience I’ve never found over blade guards to have enough benefit to stay on. I’ve never used an overhead mounted guard but will look into them.

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