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Question about rust on metal-to-metal sliding surfaces (Jointer)

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Forum topic by Thompson11285 posted 07-20-2016 07:10 PM 295 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Thompson11285

2 posts in 139 days


07-20-2016 07:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: rebuild refurb jointer rust friction question

Hello everyone!

This is my first post on this forum. I recently got a great deal on a Powermatic 54A 6” jointer. The tool was neglected by the previous owner and had some decent rust on it.

I’m in the middle of refurbishing it, and I have a question about how to lubricate/seal any places where there is metal-on-metal contact (where the tables slide along the base of the jointer, where the fence slides back and forth, etc). I’ve already stripped out the rust, coated it in paste wax, hit it with a heat gun, and buffed the surfaces clean, but I notice that the rust seems to return to these places wherever the friction of the moving parts scrapes away the wax.

Is is possible to paint these surfaces to seal them better? Or is there another method that I can use to get a better degree of protection? I’m located in Houston, so constant humidity will always be a problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

-Tommy


6 replies so far

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MrUnix

4225 posts in 1663 days


#1 posted 07-20-2016 07:17 PM

Paraffin wax or a dry lube with teflon. You do not want to paint the machined surfaces. I guarantee your humidity problem is no where near as bad as what we get here :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Thompson11285

2 posts in 139 days


#2 posted 07-20-2016 07:24 PM

Thanks for your response! Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3G6IFE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
(DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant)

-T

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ksSlim

1204 posts in 2354 days


#3 posted 07-20-2016 07:33 PM

Boshield, rrust remover kit and semipermant sealer/lube. spray with rust remover use xfine nonwoven abrasive.
Wipe clean with a shop towel and spray with Boshield. I repete at the first sign of flash.
Flash usually occurs under the fence first.

quick and easy. about $20 a kit from Rockler, Lee Valley, or any of the others.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

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jimintx

138 posts in 1048 days


#4 posted 07-20-2016 08:52 PM

I support the Boeshield rust remover approach.
I, too, have used their spray sealer (“wax”) and had good results.
For most things, though, I use simple paste wax.

Since you’re in Houston, I’ll point out you can get the Boeshield products and kits from Woodcraft and usually from Rockler. Or order it from Amazon.

I only was able beat the local humidity by fully enclosing and insulating the shop, as if it was a part of the house, and installing a window AC. In our few cooler weather weeks each year, I use a small electric room heater, or maybe two of them. Not only do they keep the conditions nicer inside, they also keep the shop cat happier.

Brad, I am certain we can match your humidity levels here along the southeast Texas coast. But sadly, it isn’t an appealing characteristic in which to be competitive!

Jim
.

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MrUnix

4225 posts in 1663 days


#5 posted 07-20-2016 09:04 PM

For those who like Boeshield… the rust remover is basically just a 20-30% solution of phosphoric acid and alcohol. T-9 is Paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits with a smidge of mineral oil thrown in for good measure. Johnsons paste wax is also Paraffin wax dissolved in naptha with a little bit of Carnauba and microcrystalline wax thrown in. The common element is wax.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jimintx

138 posts in 1048 days


#6 posted 07-20-2016 09:29 PM

I know the rust remover is phosphoric acid.
I don’t know:
What’s the best place to buy phosphoric acid?
.

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