|Forum topic by JackStraw42||posted 07-17-2016 06:02 PM||669 views||0 times favorited||4 replies|
07-17-2016 06:02 PM
Hi all. I’m planning to turn at 13” segmented teak bowl to be used as a sink in my basement. I’ll be using g-flex marine epoxy for the glue-up and a Teak Oil varnish mix to finish, at the recommendation of the wooden boat builders forum. I designed the bowl using Woodturner Pro. I’m planning to turn a couple test bowls first using less expensive wood before attempting the real thing. I’ve built one of the wedgie sleds, stop jig, and zero clearance insert for my table saw. It works great! I’m finishing up gluing my 1st test bowl now. However, i still have work to do before i can start turning. Here are my questions for you guys:
Tools: I assume that i’m going to get addicted to turning, but i’m not ready to jump in with both feet yet. I would like to spend as little as possible on tools to start, and upgrade later if it’s a hobby that sticks. What would be the minimum required turning tools i need to buy to get this done? I’ve read that the Simple carbide tools have a shorter learning curve, but that traditional tools are still proffered by experienced turners. Could i get by with the Simple bowl hollower for now? Or, is there something better i should use?
Lathe RPM: I’m thinking slow and steady wins this race, right? I have a salvaged washing machine motor that i’ve wired up to switches to control RPM. 850, 1250, and 1750. The motor will have a small pully that will drive a larger one to reduce the RPM. Exactly how large i’m not sure. I’ve read that the bowl diameter times the RPM should be between 6000 and 9000? If that is true, and i go with the smaller number, that puts me at around 460 rpm. Does that sound right? Should i go even slower?
Safety: Not a question here… just couple notes. I do have a full face shield that i’ll be using for this. I’ll also keep out of the line of fire where possible. I was thinking i might make the v-belt driven pullies a little shallow and the belt tension a little slack so that any real resistance will actually halt the lathe rather than break something. I’ve seen other people do this… does that sound reasonable?
Thanks for any advice you can offer!