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Forum topic by richgreer posted 05-10-2010 06:46 PM 2899 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4541 posts in 3071 days

05-10-2010 06:46 PM

It’s probably a little tacky to reference a project from another website on this website. Nonetheless, I always get good feedback from other LJs on this site.

I really like this chair design and would like to build some for my screen room – -

What I cannot figure out from the listing is how the joints were done. Those joints have to be very strong. I think I would do half-lap joints with a couple of hardwood dowels for reinforcement. I’m wondering if anyone can opine on the best way to do these joints.

As an FYI – I would not use red oak since I want it to withstand the weather. I would probably use ipe if I can find it or white oak if I cannot.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

13 replies so far

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

453 posts in 3002 days

#1 posted 05-10-2010 06:54 PM

Cross lap or Mortise and tenon, but I would have a hard time trusting something that narrow in wood. Especially the 4/4 it appears to be built out of. All it would take would be someone large to sit down hard and they would be on the floor. Putting a cross member the other way kind of defeats the design but it would be quite a bit stronger.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View Jon Spelbring's profile

Jon Spelbring

199 posts in 4250 days

#2 posted 05-10-2010 07:05 PM

I think there’s a similar one on one of the Festool sites – they of course, use the Domino for the joinery.

-- To do is to be

View AaronK's profile


1506 posts in 3461 days

#3 posted 05-10-2010 07:45 PM

it’s posted as a “one day project” – i think your best guess is probably it, rich.

it could even be screws – driven in at an angle from the horizontal members. the seat would hide the top ones, and the bottom ones would be against the floor.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3071 days

#4 posted 05-10-2010 08:09 PM

After reflecting on this – - I think I want to get some 6/4 stock. On 3 of the 4 pieces, I will trim them down to 3/4 with a flare at one end back to 6/4. I will cut a slot in the 6/4 end that will accept the next 3/4 piece. I will also put hardwood dowels through the joint.

A while ago I was building a chair and I checked on some standards for chair construction. I read that a chair should be able to withstand dropping 250 pounds from 2’ above the chair. I wonder if this chair could pass that test.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View a1Jim's profile


117091 posts in 3574 days

#5 posted 05-10-2010 08:16 PM

I would guess half lap at the angels I agree with Michael that this chair is made as a design statement rather than a sturdy piece of furniture. A wood like Epi would make it much stronger.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View uffitze's profile


199 posts in 2952 days

#6 posted 05-10-2010 08:17 PM

Personally, I think that I’d use a mortise and tenon, and I’d probably make it stepped and pegged if I was at all worried about failure of the joint.

A lap joint might work, and if I wanted to make the chairs as a production run, I’d experiment with it. Again, I’d almost definitely peg a lap joint to make sure the chair doesn’t collapse if the glue fails.

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 4002 days

#7 posted 05-10-2010 09:16 PM

Needs cleverly disguised STEEL at that intersection for sure. I don’t see any wood only joint standing the test of time, kids and chubby people. :)

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View SnowyRiver's profile


51457 posts in 3477 days

#8 posted 05-10-2010 09:26 PM

My vote is mortise and tenon. You could use a pin or wooden peg through the joint to strenghten it also.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Dave Owen's profile

Dave Owen

254 posts in 3071 days

#9 posted 05-10-2010 09:46 PM

Without a doubt, it is an interesting design – and the designer is to be congratulated for originality. If I were going to try to make one, I’d consider a pinned bridle joint. Still, it strikes me more as being more than a little risky – especially in 4/4 wood. In addition to possible problems with the joint, the angled legs would be subject to a lot of bending stress. If anything did fail, it could be a nasty fall. Put another way – if you’ve made any when I come to visit, I might just pull up a kitchen chair.

-- Dave O.

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

453 posts in 3002 days

#10 posted 05-10-2010 09:51 PM

Add a couple of gussets if it doesn’t compromise your design.


-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View woodpeckerbill's profile


205 posts in 3270 days

#11 posted 05-10-2010 10:37 PM

Rich, woodcraft magazine had a project a while back. A Z chair. It was joinered with the domino system. Think woodcraft was pushing the domino tool back then. Anyway it was very strong! Might want to check it out.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3071 days

#12 posted 05-10-2010 10:56 PM

Thank you everyone for the great ideas and suggestions. I like the gusset idea that Michael provided and I don’t think it would compromise the design. What would anyone compare this to.

I also like the idea of using ipe. I’ve worked with ipe in the past and I am very impressed with how strong it is. Of course, in this application, strong wood is only half the issue. The other half is a strong joint. That is where the gussets come in. With ipe wood and strong joints (including the gussets) I would gladly plop my 200 lbs. down on this without a reservation.

I’m going to try one. I’ll keep everyone posted. Think I will place an order for some ipe today.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View AlaskaGuy's profile


4133 posts in 2306 days

#13 posted 10-08-2014 06:26 PM

Could be something like in this video.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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