Dyeing the field and not the inlay.

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Forum topic by barryvabeach posted 05-10-2010 04:07 AM 1006 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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159 posts in 3037 days

05-10-2010 04:07 AM

I have done some string inlay and band inlay over the past few years but have never been happy about the end result. I tried taping off the inlay, or putting some clear finish on it, then dyeing the field , but usually got some dye that got onto the inlay, and a few times, even when it came out clean, when I put on the clear coat, I got some bleeding of the dye back into the area where the inlay was. I also tried dyeing and putting a few coats of stain on the field, then glued in the inlay – but found that when I used a scraper to trim the inlay flush with the field, I scraped off some of the dyes in spots, and was never happy with the results when I touched up the field. I finally finished a piece that come out okay and thought I would post the steps. I first taped each side of the field leaving just the inlay ( just under 1/4 inch of biirdseye maple ) and then brushed on 3 coats of a waterborne clear ( sanding lightly between each) I used Enduro urethane. After a full day to cure, I then removed the tape, and then taped the inlay and trimmed the tape so it covered just the inlay. I used a 3M fine line tape, when I tried it with blue tape it allowed some dye to bleed under it. I then dyed the field with a trans fast dye. When that dried, I spayed the field with a couple of wash coats of dewaxed shellac. I then pulled off the tape and shoot the piece with a few coats of Enduro urethane clear . I did get a few spots where the dye got under the tape ( an some spots where the clear got into the clear when I was trying to get just the inlay) they were pretty small and I was able to scape then with a xacto knife.

1 reply so far

View wisno's profile


88 posts in 3004 days

#1 posted 05-10-2010 04:26 AM

Yeah it is a tough work.
But you get a nice result.
Thanks for your sharing.

Good luck


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