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Forum topic by jwmalone posted 07-14-2016 07:59 PM 638 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jwmalone's profile


769 posts in 851 days

07-14-2016 07:59 PM

I was just reading the forum on clamping, Never thought of it before but I use regular old wood glue, just got a bottle of “tight bond” seems to work pretty well. The joints I’m making are box joints, rabbits on the corners of cabinets approx. 2ft by 2ft, 3 1/2 inches deep, board thickness 3/4 sometimes 1/2 inch, four to six shelves’ 1/4 inch thick, cabinets are then screwed to wall. My mother has several they seem to be pretty sturdy. At what point do I need to start thinking about glues other than good ole wood glue. I also pre drill and put two number six 1 5/8 screws in each corner

-- "Boy you could get more work done it you quit flapping your pie hole" Grandpa

5 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5072 posts in 4109 days

#1 posted 07-14-2016 08:01 PM

Don’t bother unless you’re workin’ with some unusual material ( glass, stone, metal).


View JBrow's profile


1366 posts in 1069 days

#2 posted 07-14-2016 11:18 PM


I see no reason to change the glue you are now using, given the projects you mentioned. However, as Bill White stated, gluing materials other than wood are likely to require glue other than common woodworker’s glue. If a project is doing duty outdoors, a waterproof or water resistant glue works well. I have had spring back issues with common woodworkers glue on bent laminations. My understanding is that cured common woodworkers glue has a bit of elasticity allowing the lamination to straighten a bit when removed from the clamping cauls. Alternative glues that bond wood and that are rigid when cured may be better choices in this case.

View bbasiaga's profile


1240 posts in 2144 days

#3 posted 07-15-2016 12:35 AM

Agree with Bill. The only other time I strayed was when air had a really big, tricky glue up and needed more open time. I used a slow cure epoxy with like 2 hours of open time. There were about a zillion finger joints and a few inserts. That all had to be clamped and squared, first ones would have been set by the time I got to the end.

I have also thought of using some of the super fast cure glues for things that are hard to clamp. But haven’t tried. Otherwise, just lots of regular old wood glue.


-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View a1Jim's profile


117239 posts in 3726 days

#4 posted 07-15-2016 01:29 AM

Titebond makes many types of glue here are their PVA glues, they have different open times and strengths as this link shows

Fine woodworking did a glue strength test of different types of glues including epoxy,after many tests they still determined PVA glue to be the strongest for all the different woods regardless of how tight the joint was.

all said and done your boxes should be fine the mechanical fasteners (screws) are great insurance.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View jwmalone's profile


769 posts in 851 days

#5 posted 07-15-2016 01:39 AM

yea I make these for my mothers friends so I have to know its going to last, so I use screws. Good thing is I’m a painter by trade I’ve spent 20 years making inexperienced carpenters look like master craftsmen lmao (that includes myself). I can hide a nail or screw hole so well the IRS couldn’t find it if it were a dollar bill. But thanks for the info, regular tight bond seems to work well for what I’m doing.

-- "Boy you could get more work done it you quit flapping your pie hole" Grandpa

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