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Forum topic by Stevinmarin posted 1566 days ago 2622 views 0 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Stevinmarin

837 posts in 1701 days


1566 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: chair model

Thanks everyone who has has input in my triangle cutting question. I think I’ve got a handle on it by spending hours fussing with my crappy miter guage.

Let me show you what I’m doing and ask for more help. The Marin County Fair is in July and they always have a chair-making competition. There is a “miniature” category…chairs under 12” that I am entering.

Here’s an actual chair I found in a design book that I want to make out of wood. The one pictured is made out of aluminum:

Chair

I am going to use 1/4” wood for this. The question is, how can I clue it up? There are a ton of angles to deal with. For instance, about a 50 degree angle where the seat meets the back. Then the angles where the back legs meet the back. Of course, I am even fretting over the simple 45 degree glue-up where the seat meets the front leg. Quarter inch thick wood!

Again, it won’t take any stress…it’s a 12” model. Any suggestions?

-- Entertainment for mere mortal woodworkers. http://www.WoodworkingForMereMortals.com


33 replies so far

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2088 days


#1 posted 1566 days ago

Cut a complementary angle to what you are gluing so you can get the pieces clamped at 90 degrees?

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#2 posted 1566 days ago

Are you suppose to sit in the chairs you make? If so 1/4” ply will be a rough route to go.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View mtnwild's profile

mtnwild

3474 posts in 2153 days


#3 posted 1566 days ago

Finger joints. Only thing I think would be strong enough. Would look cool too.

-- mtnwild (Jack), It's not what you see, it's how you see it.

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

448 posts in 1631 days


#4 posted 1566 days ago

Bent laminations. 5 or 6 layers of 1/28 ” veneer over a form.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View Stevinmarin's profile

Stevinmarin

837 posts in 1701 days


#5 posted 1566 days ago

Jim: no, this chair will just be a miniature…basically an art piece 12” tall. It doesn’t need to be very strong. I do want it strong enough that I can round over the joint edges. I may just do that with my sander.

Heer’s a crazy idea…how about super glue? Do you think it will hold solid wood pieces together? That way I wouldn’t need to clamp it…just hold the pieces together for a few seconds. I may put some phony splines in the joints just to make it all fancy-like.

-- Entertainment for mere mortal woodworkers. http://www.WoodworkingForMereMortals.com

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Stevinmarin

837 posts in 1701 days


#6 posted 1566 days ago

Michael , your idea is interesting. Will veneer bend into these angles? I could certainly make a plywood form. Okay…ignorance check…I’ve never used veneer before.

-- Entertainment for mere mortal woodworkers. http://www.WoodworkingForMereMortals.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#7 posted 1566 days ago

I think Michael Murphy has the right Idea but you could give the super glue a try.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#8 posted 1566 days ago

Another approach might be to have the joinery area were the seat is being thicker and tapering down to a 1/4”
at the feet.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4522 posts in 1700 days


#9 posted 1566 days ago

For wood to wood gluing, superglue will not give you any advantage over a good wood glue. I would use Gorilla wood glue. You’ll be impressed with how will it holds if it is glued properly. Furthermore, you will want some open time when doing this glue up. Superglue gives you virtually no open time.

I think finger joints would be your best option. However, I see a problem with the back. You really want the grain to run into the fingers (not across the fingers). At the back you need joints on the bottom and the sides. I think there is a way to solve that problem by making the back out of three pieces that you glue together.

I would discourage you on veneer. It would be real hard to get the edges to look right. I would go with a good stable hard wood. My first choice would be maple.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Broglea's profile

Broglea

665 posts in 1716 days


#10 posted 1566 days ago

Steve – I think your on to something with the super glue. For example, if you are try to glue up one of the angle you could try to use super glue on half of it and wood glue on the other half. That way once the super glue takes hold it will hold the angle until the wood glue cures.

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1577 posts in 1917 days


#11 posted 1566 days ago

Is the original bent from a single sheet of aluminum? If so, I think laying up veneers is probably your best bet. Granted, I’ve never laid up veneers, but it’s really not that complicated a shape. I see only 4 bends. Someone of your skill level could certainly turn out male and female molds for this.

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15684 posts in 2844 days


#12 posted 1566 days ago

I realize this will change the look, but it crossed my mind that you could use decorative molding. like 3/4” cove, as glue blocks at the inside corners. With a little imagination, I think it could be blended in.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View rance's profile

rance

4128 posts in 1786 days


#13 posted 1566 days ago

Finger joints, Gorilla glue, and the cove molding with the meat cut off to act like a fillet on the underneath side. Super glue is too brittle to hold this IMO. GG has some give to it when it is cured, more so than yellow glue. Because of the angles, you may consider hand cut dovetails rather than finger joints. Actually an angled finger joint would be sufficient, and easier than hand cut.

Keep us updated on your progress.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View JuniorJoiner's profile

JuniorJoiner

444 posts in 2066 days


#14 posted 1566 days ago

I am going to say bent lamination veneer as well, just realize that you are bending the veneer in multiple axis, which may require hot pipe bending before you laminate.(because grain direction will be an issue)
for a 12” chair, you may even be able to put it in a vacuum press.

-- Junior -Quality is never an accident-it is the reward for the effort involved.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1741 days


#15 posted 1566 days ago

junior says it 5-6 layer of venner steambend over a pipe in the right angle
and glue it up in a male/female mold
that´s how they do it here in Denmark with steambend furniture

look forward to see what you come up with

Dennis

showing 1 through 15 of 33 replies

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