Router table setup???

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Forum topic by scribble posted 07-13-2016 12:36 AM 673 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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197 posts in 2379 days

07-13-2016 12:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question router

I am finally getting around to building my router table. I have noticed that my top is out of square by a 1/16”. I need to cut my t track slots, miter slot and my router plate hole. I am wonder why is the best way to reference everything off of. Should I cut the router plate hole and measure everything off of that or make the t and miter tracks intersect 90 and then place the plate as square as possible to them.

Sorry if this sounds dumb but don’t have the ability to square up the top any more and can’t afford more material to waste, that is if I don’t really screw up cutting out thr items I need for the top.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

3 replies so far

View MadMark's profile


979 posts in 1631 days

#1 posted 07-13-2016 12:58 AM

There is no parallelism in a router table. As long as you’re square to yourself you’ll be ok.


-- Madmark -

View HokieKen's profile


6643 posts in 1317 days

#2 posted 07-13-2016 01:50 AM

I’d put the plate first and reference it for the tracks. Mark’s right though, they don’t have to be square , just straight and the t tracks parallel to each other. For asthetics though, I’d get them as square as I could.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View JBrow's profile


1366 posts in 1098 days

#3 posted 07-13-2016 02:19 AM


It seems to me all is well with your router table. You could select a table edge, perhaps the front edge, and install the mitre track and the T-tracks and fence adjustment system (if different from the T tracks). In so doing trying to get as close as possible to perpendicular and parallel alignment with each other would be good, but I fail to see how perfection in these alignments is critical. Then install the router mounting plate although the router mounting plate could be mounted first.

Most of my routing operations reply exclusively on fence adjustment relative to the cutter, and since the router bit is a single point cutting tool, fence alignment to the miter slot or table edges is not required.
Likewise, a router operation that relies only on the mitre gauge or jig riding in the mitre slot likewise should pose no problem.

Ensuring perfect parallel alignment of the fence to the mitre slot is only critical when, for some reason both the mitre slot and fence are used together in the same operation. In this instance, the fence must be made and kept parallel to the mitre slot. Enough adjustability can be built into the fence adjustment mechanism so that the fence can be made parallel to the mitre slot.

If you wish to keep the fence aligned parallel with the mitre slot, then a set of fence stop blocks and a set of shims can help. The first step is to set the fence so that its face both sets directly over the center of the router collet while at the same time setting the fence perfectly parallel with the mitre slot. Once the fence is adjusted and locked down, a stop block can be clamped or screwed to the router table behind the fence and in direct contact with the back side of the fence. A stop block is placed at both ends of the router table. Shims can be milled to various widths and their widths marked on the shims, one set for each stop block. Then to adjust the fence proud of the router bit for a routing operation, the same number of shims of the same thickness is inserted between the stop blocks and the back of the fence at each end. This assumes the distance from the back of the fence to its face is the same at both ends of the fence. Hopefully the photo illustrates well enough what I am describing. The machine in the photo is a shaper, but I used the same system on the router table.

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