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How to remove wood glue after stain & poly

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Forum topic by edwood1975 posted 07-12-2016 02:27 PM 477 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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edwood1975

496 posts in 811 days


07-12-2016 02:27 PM

Topic tags/keywords: removing dried glue stain

I made some bedside tables and I made my own dentil moulding.. I used regular wood glue and after I used a stain polyurethane combination I see white glue marks around the moulding.. I spent so much time building these and white stain are ruining my tables

What can I do.. Because it’s around the the nooks and cranny of the moulding it’s not as simple as sanding and re applying the stain please help

THANKS

-- Ed


7 replies so far

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2143 days


#1 posted 07-12-2016 08:45 PM

At this stage of the game there are 2 options that I am aware of. you can scrape it and sand back to the wood as you have mentioned. That will probably do as much bad as good. Not impossible but not fun. The second thing would be to take some you your top coat and mix some stain in it. Get a small brush and gently apply this over the white places. In the future you can use a liberal amount of water on a rag with something small like a pick or knife point to remove the glue. Put the rag over the point of the tool and remove all the glue. This will not hurt the wood or your project.

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jumbojack

1667 posts in 2092 days


#2 posted 07-13-2016 01:57 AM

Man I hate it when this happens. I have used scrapers, chisels, special sanding ‘sticks’ made specifically for the project, pocket knife, exacto knife anything you can get in there to get the glue.
I am getting better at using tape, or prefinishing problem areas.
By the way YOU are likely the only one that will notice the lighter areas.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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rwe2156

2200 posts in 948 days


#3 posted 07-13-2016 02:10 PM

The only way I know of is CAREFULLY use a chisel like a scraper to remove the finish and glue down to bare wood, then hope the finish matches…..:-(

In future when dealing with the issue, I’ve found a toothbrush and water to be the best way to remove the glue.

Another way is to tape off with painters tape squeeze out goes on top of tape.

And yet another way is monitor the squeeze out and when its rubbery after an hour or so, scrape out with a chisel (but I don’t do it because I usually forget).

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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JayT

4788 posts in 1679 days


#4 posted 07-13-2016 02:17 PM

The other guys have said anything I could about fixing the issue.

In the future, one way to prevent this is to wipe the surface down with something like mineral spirits before finishing. It doesn’t remove the glue, but does show where there are still glue spots that need removed before you put a finish on.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

628 posts in 1420 days


#5 posted 07-13-2016 02:24 PM

All of the suggestions above are good ones. Applying the dyed finish is probably the best choice at this point. With dentil molding it would be virtually impossible to use the blue tape to protect the surface during the glue up and wiping, brushing, or scraping the uncured glue would be a real problem as well. One problem with allowing a lot of squeeze out and then removing the excess is that the glue can penetrate the wood and then it will not take stain like the surrounding area. Diluted glue can be used as a sealer to prevent blotching when staining for just this reason. The best “fix” is to avoid the squeeze out in the first place. With difficult things like your molding avoid the temptation to use too much glue. It doesn’t take much to get the pieces to adhere.

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Plain

157 posts in 166 days


#6 posted 07-13-2016 07:05 PM

The best way is to remove the moldings sand off the finish and redo.

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1980 days


#7 posted 07-14-2016 11:08 AM

Use a good sharp metal paint scraper and work at the marks gently to scrap the glue off than using a 150 or so grit sand paper crease the paper and sand the area. Depending on the application sometimes a heat gun of 400 degrees or more will delaminate the glue causing it to become soft and putty like so be careful with the heat as you don’t want to remove the molding also not sure how the heat will react with the finish/stain.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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