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Forum topic by Ben posted 07-11-2016 12:44 AM 332 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ben

267 posts in 2323 days


07-11-2016 12:44 AM

Hey there gang,

A customer wants radius top pocket doors, similar to something like this http://www.nicksbuilding.com/Images2/round_top_door_pics/Salzburg%206080%20WM.jpg
but a french door style, with 12-15 divided lights.

I’ve built an eyebrow dormer and sash before, so I’m not super afraid of the curves here.
But I’m wondering if I can get away with a more quick and dirty construction, seeing as how there will be no racking force as it just hangs from above.
Maybe just bolt the main frame together? Cope/stick the muntins?
I sold my mortiser awhile back so mortise and tenon would be a hassle.

Bad idea to use 8/4” clear pine? A local supplier sells this S4S. But would it twist?

Customer actually wants pine, with a dark stain. But I believe all the big door manufacturers use a glued up core with a veneer, no?

Thanks!


6 replies so far

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cabmaker

1507 posts in 2274 days


#1 posted 07-11-2016 01:02 AM

You can certainly start with 8/4 but would want to mill to 1 3/4 for finish door.

I would go cope and stick for sure

muntins should cope nicely on that long radius

are you set up with cutters for glass lites ?

View Ben's profile

Ben

267 posts in 2323 days


#2 posted 07-11-2016 01:05 AM

Thanks cabmaker.
By cope and stick do you mean mortise and tenon?
To me they are two very different things.

The few divided light cabinet doors I made I used a pair of matched cutters from Eagle America.
Then milled a little quarter for the back side and pin nailed them in.

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cabmaker

1507 posts in 2274 days


#3 posted 07-11-2016 01:08 AM

No I’m not talking about traditional mortise and tenon.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 946 days


#4 posted 07-11-2016 02:16 PM

With pine, warping and bowing will be the big issue, in my view.

Rather than solid 8/4 wood, I would consider a lamination using 3/4 ply, MDF, or PB sandwiched between 2 layers of 3/4 pine, using a stiff setting glue like epoxy.

The ply can be left out any place you want a mortise and the tenon would simply be the corresponding lamination with ply extending to form a tenon.

The grooves for the panels would be formed by leaving the plywood inset from the edge.

The egdes of the doors would be treated the same way except the slot would be filled with pine. If milled precisely enough, it would not be that noticeable. You could also cut miters on the long edges and use a mitered filler strip.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Ben's profile

Ben

267 posts in 2323 days


#5 posted 07-12-2016 11:30 AM

Thanks guys!
rwe, I like where your head’s at, but sure sounds like a lot of work.
So the door would be 2 1/4” thick?

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 946 days


#6 posted 07-12-2016 01:09 PM

You can use 1/2” ply if the door needs to be 1 3/4.

It is a lot of laminar gluing which a vaccuum press would be great, but you’re saving not making M/T joinery/grooves, etc.

Main advantage is you’re going to end up with a stable door.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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