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Table Saw Advice - Parquet floor project

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Forum topic by vasbyt posted 07-10-2016 03:42 PM 498 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


07-10-2016 03:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: parquet flooring bosch gts american pitch pine table saw

I’m in the UK and new to wood working. I’m looking at a Bosch GTS 10 J table saw. We are about to lay a parquet floor using 100 year old reclamed American Pitch Pine. The bitumen from the original lay has to be removed, so my idea is to set up the table saw at a thickness to just touch the wood, each piece of parquet is (wood excluding the bitumen on the bottom) 20 mm thick by 220 mm long and 70 mm deep. The GTS has a cut depth of 79mm so that will mean I can set up to around 74 mm to just clear the wood. In total I have 1854 blocks to cut. My quesions are as follows, will the GTS be man enough for this? what tooth pitch should I have on the saw blade? I am thinking of having two identical blades to rotate the cutting, What would be the best way to clean the blades and how often?
I will be using a belt sander to clean up the edges and to remove the layer of grundge on the surface of the blocks, and once laid I will then get a floor sander in. I am also thinking of cutting some of the blocks into strips to form a border around the room (I have got 4sqm of spare blocks to play with) I will also be collecting sawdust to mix with resin to fill any cracks/gaps etc.
Any advice will be appriciated
Thank you


13 replies so far

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#1 posted 07-10-2016 06:16 PM

So if I understand you are using reclaimed parquet flooring with tar on the bottom and want to cut off the tar by running the wood tiles through your tablesaw with the face side against the fence. (?) Sounds good to me.

I have never cut bitumen/tar/pitch/asphalt but I would buy carbide tipped blades for construction which are typically inexpensive. In the states you can buy commercial tar removers for automobiles. I use a citrus degreaser to remove pine pitch from my blades and have also used it to remove road tar from an automobile but it will remove paint if left too long.

Can’t tell you if the saw is “man enough” :) but it’s presumably the only saw you have so it will have to do.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#2 posted 07-10-2016 06:31 PM

Hi Rick, I’m looking at buying a saw, I have just been looking at the Bosch GTS10 XC which has a 2.1 kw motor, I will also be getting a bench belt sander (any excuse to buy new tools when I can without the good lady complaining:-) The advice on cleaning and tips is good and makes sense thank you. I have worked out that by the time I have bought the new saw and sander I will still be several hundred pounds ahead of the game, obviously there is just the time factor, but I get bored easily so it’s good.

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Hammerthumb

2533 posts in 1441 days


#3 posted 07-10-2016 06:54 PM

It’s not a good idea to try to cut adhesive off the bottom of the boards. Also, 70mm is just over 2-3/4” which is the maximum cut depth of most saws. I am not familiar with that particular saw, so I cannot comment on that.

If you want to cut the adhesive off, it is more advisable to make sure the saw kerf is into the wood and not the adhesive. This can be done with solid wood, but I would advise against it with an engineered product.

Please be careful. The operation you are talking about could be very dangerous.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#4 posted 07-10-2016 07:30 PM

The parquet is solid wood, the cut will be just below the bitumen and the blocks are around 1 3/8” thick so even after cutting they will still be around 1 3/16” thick. The depth of cut on the saw is 3 7/64” whilst the blocks are 2 3/4” so there should be enough cut through. In the picture attched you can see the bitumen it looks thick in reality it is not much more than 3/64” the block underneath gives an idea of some of the grain, I have sanded it roughly to see what it looks like
My background is not wood working but mechanical engineering with lots of time spent on machining so safety is always something I take seriously

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MrUnix

4233 posts in 1664 days


#5 posted 07-10-2016 07:36 PM

Feather boards and a push block should get you there. Might want to invest in a cheap blade or two as there will most likely be a lot of crap you will be sawing through that will quickly dull/ruin the blade. Not something you would want to use an expensive blade on.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#6 posted 07-10-2016 07:44 PM

what would you guys recommend on the number of teeth I’m thinking around 24

Thank you for all the replies so far

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

1047 posts in 2596 days


#7 posted 07-10-2016 08:00 PM

A bandsaw would be much safer, and probably faster.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#8 posted 07-10-2016 10:13 PM

would the band saw maintain the constant thickness you would get with a table top

View isotope's profile

isotope

146 posts in 1090 days


#9 posted 07-10-2016 11:36 PM



A bandsaw would be much safer, and probably faster.

- Ger21

I would have be inclined to use a bandsaw. Followed by passing the pieces through a thickness planer is need be.

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Plain

157 posts in 164 days


#10 posted 07-11-2016 12:56 AM

This guy has a much safer even though a slightly slower idea.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

5730 posts in 2833 days


#11 posted 07-11-2016 03:42 AM

I would also use a band saw!
Better safe than sorry.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#12 posted 07-11-2016 08:01 AM



This guy has a much safer even though a slightly slower idea.

- Plain


Thank you that’s a good idea

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vasbyt

8 posts in 152 days


#13 posted 07-27-2016 07:58 PM

Thank you all for the advice, I have gone with the band saw as suggested on both here and in the shop I visited. Got the saw home this evening and set it up, it is doing exactly what I want, a few more minor adjustments and it will be all systems go. For the band I have gone with a 4-6 variable TPI. The saw is a “Trade” model designed for heavier work. I have also got a dust extracter moving 840 m3/hr

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