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Moving a PM66 solo question

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Forum topic by Holbs posted 07-09-2016 12:08 AM 640 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


07-09-2016 12:08 AM

When I bought my Unisaw from craigslist, the guy nicely used his forklift to put it into the back of my Dodge Ram 1500. I removed the fence and rails to get it out of the truck without much difficulty using the flip over method.

So now, I have this PM66 bought from an auction that I am picking up solo in the morning. I’ve taken a cabinet saw out of my truck, but putting one into my truck….reversed method of flipping it up and over onto it’s top laying on a sheet of plywood? If worse came to worse, I’ll can take the motor out. If that fails, table top.

oh…I 98% decided I have space for both cabinet saws :) I’ll try to face them towards each other so each acts as an outfeed table if I can line them up. Unisaw since is right tilt, will be dado saw. If PM66 is single phase (I could not tell at the auction), it shall become my main saw.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"


16 replies so far

View loiblb's profile

loiblb

109 posts in 522 days


#1 posted 07-09-2016 12:38 AM

Taking the motor out not a bad idea. The trunions lowered as much as they can. The hand wheels and door anything that is easy to remove. I dropped a saw once with aid of a helper. I almost like doing it by myself. Good luck .

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#2 posted 07-09-2016 01:24 AM

You have already been told the drill in at least one of your previous threads regarding your Uni. Remove fence, extensions and blade (and anything else you can). Raise the arbor and tilt it to 45 so the motor will be as low as possible and in the center of the cabinet when upside down. Tilt and flip, strap, block, yada, yada, yada…. can be done single handed, but having a second pair of hands will make it almost trivial.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1187 days


#3 posted 07-09-2016 01:26 AM

If you can put a stool or something under the tailgate so if the top slips and the whole thing falls straight down it won’t fall as far. That alone still won’t do your hands any favors if it does fall. I moved my Unisaw into and out of my truck with a slightly lower tailgate (Dakota) alone and I had the side table and the wing both removed, the rest of the saw was intact.

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Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#4 posted 07-09-2016 02:21 AM

Yes Brad… I asked a friend to give a hand. Taking a cabinet saw out of truck was rather easy. Never put on in before. “almost” thought my near 50years of age could do it solo. But then thought of all the disaster youtube vids of people doing things “almost” :)

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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JBrow

819 posts in 386 days


#5 posted 07-09-2016 02:30 AM

Holbs,

An alternative idea to using plywood (which could crack or break under load) is to check with local equipment rental stores for an engine crane hoist. I have used these to move heavy equipment with good success and great ease. Checking specs on the engine crane hoist would reveal whether, in your situation, it is workable.

When I removed a 600 pound by 78” high bandsaw from the pallet to the mobile base, I found an engine crane hoist with a boom arm that lifted to 105”. This was a tow-behind hoist and, if memory serves me, the hoist was mobile even under load. In another circumstance I rented a smaller engine crane hoist (90”+ lift height), which was assembled on the job site. The smaller hoist was mobile under load. The only question is whether the splayed legs on the hoist will fit under the truck. But since it is an engine crane hoist, I doubt this is a problem. The other issue with the engine crane hoist is identifying where lift straps can be placed so as not to damage the machine.

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1041 days


#6 posted 07-09-2016 05:49 AM

swing by one of the missions or labor ready places or in front of some home depots and pick up a helper for a few hrs to have them help you load/unload it.you get the help and the get some much needed cash.just ask if they have a bad back BEFORE you hire them! don’t ask why. :)

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

1956 posts in 1455 days


#7 posted 07-09-2016 10:46 AM

Rent an engine lift.

I bought an engine lift 10 years ago at HF and have used it for moving heavy equipment in my shop a number of times. It folds up and sits in a corner waiting for me. I have never regretted buying it.

Be careful as it is easy to hurt yourself as you get older and you do not heal fast. Secondly, I do not hire people at various places for cash due to potential liability problems…...just my policy.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#8 posted 07-09-2016 06:59 PM

If you’re considering renting things (and the engine hoist wit some load straps will work well), you might just get a low bed trailer and put it on that. Even so, I can understand your reluctance to try that by your self…but if you can work it out the flip up on it’s top method is the most direct.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Viking's profile

Viking

878 posts in 2661 days


#9 posted 07-09-2016 07:15 PM

Low bed trailer with ramp tailgate.

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#10 posted 07-09-2016 10:29 PM

I plan on getting a trailer eventually for it will help move wood working things and general things. Even bought a hitch I have not yet installed :) The saw is in the back of the truck. I had a helper. Easy to soon take it out. Thankfully, it is a single phase 220v 3HP motor, not 3 phase. I’ll snap some pix maybe or video of getting it out of the truck because I have never seen pix or vid of such (may help others down the road in same situation).

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1114 posts in 2410 days


#11 posted 07-09-2016 11:25 PM

I qualify as being in the old fart category, and am missing a big chunk of my ticker, but have loaded and unloaded my Unisaw several times. Never did I consider removing the motor. I did, however, remove the fence, table and wings.

I keep a few 4x’s around and just tip the saw back, until it’s balanced, then push the 4x under the tipped up bottom, between the truck and saw. Then I tip it up on the 4x and put another under the end I’m working from. Of course, having the blocks in place for easy positioning is critical.

If need be, I’ll tip it back and add a 4x to tip it up one more time.

Seven inches is a lot of gain. When I tip it over onto the tailgate, it’s not too bad at all. A blanket allows it to slide smoothly and easily.

A 4×6 or 4×8 is even better for the bottom, if you have to go two 4x’s high, or more.

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Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#12 posted 07-10-2016 02:21 AM

The Powermatic 66 saw is safely at home, fully assembled and thankfully 100% motor operational on 220v 3HP. I thought I could try to vid or take pictures of unloading it using the flip over on the top method… but it’s not exactly a method that allows you to take pictures during :)

Some interesting tidbits that came with the saw in the auction lot:

——————-
The PM66 is 1” lower than the Unisaw (have to figure out how to raise it). Going to use each saw as an outfeed table for the other saw. Going to make the right tilt Unisaw my dedicated dado saw as well, PM66 as main, Bosch 4100 as outside use for super long pieces and MDF.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3947 posts in 1959 days


#13 posted 07-10-2016 01:09 PM

Nice, I like the 2 (or 3, whatever) TS plan.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View toolie's profile

toolie

2025 posts in 2095 days


#14 posted 07-10-2016 02:12 PM

Looks like quite a score. What did it cost?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1378 posts in 1495 days


#15 posted 07-10-2016 02:20 PM

Cost was $150 for this Powermatic 66 lot. Wow.. those Bieseymeyer auxiliary fences are spendy. Same for cut off fence. Not too shabby for $150 :)
Debating on sending the Forrest blades to get resharpened. And I think that’s a blade stabilizer?

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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