Waterstones - opinions

The combination stones are a good place to start. They are just as good as the full stones, they just won’t last as long. With that said it will take a “part-time” woodworker a long time to go through one of the combination stones. I have Norton stones and they are really nice. I’ve heard good reviews and experiences with King stones.

I through the Norton “Flattening Stone” away. What a waste. I started out using sandpaper to flatten my stones, but have moved to using a DMT (diamond) stone to flatten my water stones. I’ve watched Rob Cosman DVDs and he uses a 1000 grit water stone to flatten his stones. Rubbing two stones together will produce 2 flat surfaces.

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

I use to have combo stones and after realizing that I could use my 4000 stone to flatten my 8000 stone, I got away from them…

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

Frank Klausz in his class on sharpening uses sandpaper taped to Melamine.

And he uses Norton stones.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

All in all though it sounds like its not a bad way to go to see if I would like water stones. The cost between individual stones and combination stones is kind of surprising. I’ve got a while to think on it before I get any.

Tom when you used combo stones were you happy with them with the exception of the flattening issue?

Now back to the using two stones to flatten one another. I’m assuming you start with clean stones before you flatten. But doesn’t the grit from one get embedded in the other? Is the amount of grit transferred simply to minimal to worry about?

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

I have the King water stones and I am very satisfied with them. These are the stones that David Charlesworth uses in his teachings and lateset DVD’d on sharpening. The one thing to consider on the combination stones in my opinion is that when one side wears out, what then? Also it would seem logical that each side will only last half as long as a full stone. Sandpaper and glass are fine for flatening, although I personally use the Norton flatening stone and have had good results with it so far.

This is all based on my personal opinion and experience and your mileage may vary of course.

Betsy, for what it’s worth, when I purchased my Veritas BUS Plane from Lee Valley I asked for a recommendation as to which was the best buy for a water stone. The advised this one and I bought the more expensive of the two. I have been very satisfied with it, although I have not had to flatten them yet. I am thinking about getting a diamond stone for flattening – or I may just use a piece of granite that I have laying around with some 200 or better grit sandpaper stuck to it.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

Betsy, yes, the combo stones were fine except for the flattening.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

The question of cross-contamination from the courser stones to the finer stones was asked of Rob, and he said he never had any issues with it. Most people put all their stones in the same water, which would have grit from all the stones anyway. Me, I’m a bit of a neat freak. I have another bucket of water I use to rinse my stones off, before putting them back in to soak.

David Charlesworth in this books and DVDs has used sandpaper to flatten his stones. He will use a different sheet of sandpaper for his courser stones, than for his finer stones. David has also talked about using a DMT stone to flatten his stones. You need to use the Course or Extra-Course for this. The finer DMT stones will not last long the water stones. Sandpaper seems like a “cheap” solution, until you start to add up all the sheets you start to use. I also seem to run out of sandpaper when I really need it.

I think if you rinse your stones off you shouldn’t have any problems.

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

Thanks Mike. I’m finding that sandpaper is pretty expensive. I’m not sure if I’ll like water stones or not, but the class calls for them so I’m going to invest in some. If I end up liking another method or can find a method I’m sucessful with, I can always sell them on e-bay!

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

Yes, eBay or even here you might find some takers.

I sure if you asked 100 people how they sharpen their tools, you will get 100 different answers :). I think mine is a blend of several different styles.

The new Shapton GlassStones is a nice new technology (less messy), but you have buy a $290 Lapping Plate for the system to work! Talk about a steep price to get it.

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

I was reading a little more about the Shapton GlassStones. I was told you needed to buy that expensive Lapping Plate, but now I found some information that says you can use sandpaper to keep them flat. I guess I should really stop listening to those salesmen :).

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

I’m really looking forward to giving the water stones a try. I’ve not had much luck with the scary sharp system. Not sure why, but I’m not giving up until I have sharp, sharp chisels and plane irons!

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

”but I’m not giving up until I have sharp, sharp chisels and plane irons!”

That’s the spirit! I have not weighed in until now. I am going to blog how I sharpen soon. I have a shop made “finishing” stone I use (and as the name implies, I make) I can see my reflection on the honed surface.

-- Urban logger, http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/

Cool Daren – I’ll be looking for the blog!

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

I use the King or other brand stones – I’d have to go look. Very happy with water stones in general. I have a 1000, 3000, and 6000. I’d recommend gettting the full single grit stones…if you buy them, you’ll want to use them. Also, get the largest size you can afford. I really only need the 1000 and the 6000. Some people like a 1000 (or 1200) and 8000 set.

The kicker is keeping them flat! You have to do this with regularity. I like Mike’s strategy of the DMT diamond stone to keep them flat…that’s a great idea and what I’ll likely do in the future. For now, it’s silicon carbide wet/dry paper on 3/8” plate glass…but, you can go through that pretty fast! I also have one of the Norton flattening stones, but you have to flatten that occasionally too…I only use it with the 1000 stone.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

I would recommend buying individual stones. Only because you won;t have to reach in a flip them when you need the new grit. And flattening the stones with sand paper is fine. What I do is use some 3M Adhesive spray and temporarily glue the sand paper down on a 1/2 inch piece of glass. Strike a few pencil marks across the stone and sand until all the pencil marks are gone. Then you know it’s flat. Good luck with your classes.

-- Kaleo , http://www.kaleosworkshop.com

Like Mike said ask 100 people and get 100 answers, maybe more ;). It’s weird I was just talking to my Dad about this last week. He has used natural stones for 40+ years, and taught me how to sharpen 30(?) years ago with them. He said he had switched almost entirely over to diamond plates. He has one pocket stone for his knife, but everything else is done freehand on diamond.
So everyone has their preference, and I guess can change it too.

-- Urban logger, http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/

Just within the past few weeks with the help of Matt over in the Basment, made the switch to water stones. Very happy with the results. Hardest part was figuring out the best way to contain the water. Over time mess was contained and excellent results attained. Ended up purchasing DMT Diamond (Course/X Course) good cutter, Norton 1000 and a Norton Combo 4000/8000. Once a year I always start out with real good edges but because I sharpen free-hand on the fly, by the end of the year some irons look pretty bad.