Question about Waterlox finish

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Forum topic by Dj1225 posted 06-30-2016 01:24 AM 467 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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57 posts in 1643 days

06-30-2016 01:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: waterlox table finish

Hi Jocks,
I need some advice. I have made a dining table out of ash and walnut that came out very nice. I have applied 4 coats of Waterlox over boiled linseed oil. Finish looks great, but my client says it is a bit too shiny. At this point I do not want to screw this up, so after the last coat is fully cured, say a week, could i wet sand with. 500 or more grit paper, to,take off the aggressive shine. If so would it be better to use a orbital sander, or sand with grain by hand.

If not any suggestions.

As always thanks for your help.


-- Dave

10 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile


15481 posts in 2429 days

#1 posted 06-30-2016 01:28 AM

Far from an expert here but id go by hand if i was abrading. I wonder if some synthetic steel wool and wax would knock it down enough?

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Kirk650's profile


272 posts in 171 days

#2 posted 06-30-2016 03:02 AM

Cure time is more like 3 weeks, so don’t rush the rub out. In your situation, I think I’d add a coat of the Waterlox satin. You might not need to rub it out. I use the satin, let it cure and then use OOOO steel wool and Johnson’s wax.

View OSU55's profile


1039 posts in 1412 days

#3 posted 06-30-2016 12:01 PM

Synthetic or real steel wool will get a more even sheen then sandpaper because of the flexibility. Rub with the grain by hand. I have used syn steel wool with a drill and sanding pad for this as well. Using satin waterlox, or regular poly thinned 1:1, is another option. Letting it cure several weeks is best.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

289 posts in 1885 days

#4 posted 06-30-2016 01:08 PM

Fine steel wool, and get a bottle of wood lube…

View trialrun's profile


6 posts in 230 days

#5 posted 06-30-2016 03:21 PM

ditto, 0000 steel wool and then a satin waterlox

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

7727 posts in 1803 days

#6 posted 06-30-2016 04:40 PM

The additives in satin and flat are there to mimic a hand rubbed finish, doing both is a waste of time, effort and money. Use 0000 steel wool and wax, not water; or use a scratch pad if you can find one fine enough.


View firefighterontheside's profile


13097 posts in 1279 days

#7 posted 06-30-2016 04:53 PM

If it were me and I had never done a hand rubbed finish, I think I would choose to add a coat of satin instead of trying my hand with a finished table.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View ClammyBallz's profile


298 posts in 559 days

#8 posted 06-30-2016 05:02 PM

Rubbing out a finish will give you more control on the sheen than top coating with a satin. When in doubt, finish a few scrap pieces and practice on them first. If the finish is not completely level, it’s best to start with 600-800 sandpaper first to level it out, then use 0000 wool and wax. Otherwise, just use wool & wax.

View newwoodbutcher's profile


539 posts in 2273 days

#9 posted 06-30-2016 07:45 PM

Consider making the last few coats their semigloss product. Add. As many coats as it takes to achieve the desired luster.

-- Ken

View bobasaurus's profile


2587 posts in 2607 days

#10 posted 07-01-2016 04:19 AM

Waterlox will eventually lose some of its gloss.

-- Allen, Colorado

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