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Question about Waterlox finish

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Forum topic by Dj1225 posted 06-30-2016 01:24 AM 551 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dj1225

57 posts in 1829 days


06-30-2016 01:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: waterlox table finish

Hi Jocks,
I need some advice. I have made a dining table out of ash and walnut that came out very nice. I have applied 4 coats of Waterlox over boiled linseed oil. Finish looks great, but my client says it is a bit too shiny. At this point I do not want to screw this up, so after the last coat is fully cured, say a week, could i wet sand with. 500 or more grit paper, to,take off the aggressive shine. If so would it be better to use a orbital sander, or sand with grain by hand.

If not any suggestions.

As always thanks for your help.

Dave

-- Dave


10 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

16271 posts in 2615 days


#1 posted 06-30-2016 01:28 AM

Far from an expert here but id go by hand if i was abrading. I wonder if some synthetic steel wool and wax would knock it down enough?

-- Something, something, something.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

435 posts in 357 days


#2 posted 06-30-2016 03:02 AM

Cure time is more like 3 weeks, so don’t rush the rub out. In your situation, I think I’d add a coat of the Waterlox satin. You might not need to rub it out. I use the satin, let it cure and then use OOOO steel wool and Johnson’s wax.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1233 posts in 1598 days


#3 posted 06-30-2016 12:01 PM

Synthetic or real steel wool will get a more even sheen then sandpaper because of the flexibility. Rub with the grain by hand. I have used syn steel wool with a drill and sanding pad for this as well. Using satin waterlox, or regular poly thinned 1:1, is another option. Letting it cure several weeks is best.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

322 posts in 2071 days


#4 posted 06-30-2016 01:08 PM

Fine steel wool, and get a bottle of wood lube…

View trialrun's profile

trialrun

21 posts in 416 days


#5 posted 06-30-2016 03:21 PM

ditto, 0000 steel wool and then a satin waterlox

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

9012 posts in 1989 days


#6 posted 06-30-2016 04:40 PM

The additives in satin and flat are there to mimic a hand rubbed finish, doing both is a waste of time, effort and money. Use 0000 steel wool and wax, not water; or use a scratch pad if you can find one fine enough.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

14911 posts in 1465 days


#7 posted 06-30-2016 04:53 PM

If it were me and I had never done a hand rubbed finish, I think I would choose to add a coat of satin instead of trying my hand with a finished table.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View ClammyBallz's profile

ClammyBallz

369 posts in 745 days


#8 posted 06-30-2016 05:02 PM

Rubbing out a finish will give you more control on the sheen than top coating with a satin. When in doubt, finish a few scrap pieces and practice on them first. If the finish is not completely level, it’s best to start with 600-800 sandpaper first to level it out, then use 0000 wool and wax. Otherwise, just use wool & wax.

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

586 posts in 2459 days


#9 posted 06-30-2016 07:45 PM

Consider making the last few coats their semigloss product. Add. As many coats as it takes to achieve the desired luster.

-- Ken

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

2996 posts in 2793 days


#10 posted 07-01-2016 04:19 AM

Waterlox will eventually lose some of its gloss.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

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