LumberJocks

Question about Waterlox finish

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by Dj1225 posted 06-30-2016 01:24 AM 683 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Dj1225's profile

Dj1225

57 posts in 2053 days


06-30-2016 01:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: waterlox table finish

Hi Jocks,
I need some advice. I have made a dining table out of ash and walnut that came out very nice. I have applied 4 coats of Waterlox over boiled linseed oil. Finish looks great, but my client says it is a bit too shiny. At this point I do not want to screw this up, so after the last coat is fully cured, say a week, could i wet sand with. 500 or more grit paper, to,take off the aggressive shine. If so would it be better to use a orbital sander, or sand with grain by hand.

If not any suggestions.

As always thanks for your help.

Dave

-- Dave


10 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17016 posts in 2839 days


#1 posted 06-30-2016 01:28 AM

Far from an expert here but id go by hand if i was abrading. I wonder if some synthetic steel wool and wax would knock it down enough?

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

513 posts in 581 days


#2 posted 06-30-2016 03:02 AM

Cure time is more like 3 weeks, so don’t rush the rub out. In your situation, I think I’d add a coat of the Waterlox satin. You might not need to rub it out. I use the satin, let it cure and then use OOOO steel wool and Johnson’s wax.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1420 posts in 1822 days


#3 posted 06-30-2016 12:01 PM

Synthetic or real steel wool will get a more even sheen then sandpaper because of the flexibility. Rub with the grain by hand. I have used syn steel wool with a drill and sanding pad for this as well. Using satin waterlox, or regular poly thinned 1:1, is another option. Letting it cure several weeks is best.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

341 posts in 2295 days


#4 posted 06-30-2016 01:08 PM

Fine steel wool, and get a bottle of wood lube…

View trialrun's profile

trialrun

34 posts in 640 days


#5 posted 06-30-2016 03:21 PM

ditto, 0000 steel wool and then a satin waterlox

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10598 posts in 2213 days


#6 posted 06-30-2016 04:40 PM

The additives in satin and flat are there to mimic a hand rubbed finish, doing both is a waste of time, effort and money. Use 0000 steel wool and wax, not water; or use a scratch pad if you can find one fine enough.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

16898 posts in 1689 days


#7 posted 06-30-2016 04:53 PM

If it were me and I had never done a hand rubbed finish, I think I would choose to add a coat of satin instead of trying my hand with a finished table.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View ClammyBallz's profile

ClammyBallz

424 posts in 969 days


#8 posted 06-30-2016 05:02 PM

Rubbing out a finish will give you more control on the sheen than top coating with a satin. When in doubt, finish a few scrap pieces and practice on them first. If the finish is not completely level, it’s best to start with 600-800 sandpaper first to level it out, then use 0000 wool and wax. Otherwise, just use wool & wax.

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

708 posts in 2683 days


#9 posted 06-30-2016 07:45 PM

Consider making the last few coats their semigloss product. Add. As many coats as it takes to achieve the desired luster.

-- Ken

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

3352 posts in 3017 days


#10 posted 07-01-2016 04:19 AM

Waterlox will eventually lose some of its gloss.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com