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Forum topic by jody495 posted 06-28-2016 03:09 AM 494 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


06-28-2016 03:09 AM

I was just trying to locate some parts for an old uni-saw.what parts are available are so expensive that you would be better off taking the money and putting a down payment on a new saw. Any buddy else upset about the price of parts?


13 replies so far

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#1 posted 06-28-2016 04:15 AM

I was just trying to locate some parts for an old uni-saw.what parts are available are so expensive that you would be better off taking the money and putting a down payment on a new saw. Any buddy else upset about the price of parts?
- jody495

Nope. Fortunately, the Unisaws were overbuilt and rarely need any parts other than the normal consumables and wear items. And since their design remained basically unchanged since they were introduced in the late 30’s (up until around 2007), there are parts for them all over the place from lots of different sources. The only real pricey items are machine specific cast iron parts that, if broke, took a lot of effort to do so – and those can usually be found over at the OWWM site in the BOYD section for pretty reasonable prices.

What parts do you need?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#2 posted 06-28-2016 04:43 AM

Special screws and spacers for the old style rip fence

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 950 days


#3 posted 06-28-2016 04:49 AM

Could’ve sworn I saw a similar topic come up recently. I’m pretty sure it was resolved cheaply. Could be wrong. Wouldn’t hurt to dig around the site some.

Jet lock fence is what you have?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#4 posted 06-28-2016 04:54 AM

Couple of sites I checked wanted almost $20 for the spacers. Thanks I’ll search the site for help.

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#5 posted 06-28-2016 05:36 AM

So I’m guessing you bought the saw, it has a jet lock (or micro-set) fence w/round rails, and it’s missing the rail mounting bolts/spacers/nuts:

Best bet would be to check OWWM and place a WTB ad over there. There are several listed currently for around $5 a piece (bolt+spacer), but they are older listings, so may not still be available. They also show up on the Bay for around the same price – more or less (such as this set). In a pinch, those bolts are just 3/8”x24tpi, which you can get at your local hardware store or fastenal for cheap. A hex socket head would be best, but you could modify a normal cap bolt if needed. As for the spacers, they just keep the bar offset from the table by a hair more than a 1/4” (~0.28”), so some stacked washers would work in a pinch. There is enough adjustment in the fence lock so it doesn’t need to be exactly the same width, just close.

Also, that fence was not unique to the Unisaw and was stock on many saws Delta sold, such as their contractor saw. What you need may not be listed specifically as being for the Unisaw. I have also heard that the jet-lock fence was mostly interchangeable with the clone that came on Jet machines of that era, but I have no direct evidence of that, only what I’ve read elsewhere.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#6 posted 06-28-2016 05:49 AM

Could you tell me what owwm stands for?

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#7 posted 06-28-2016 05:54 AM

Old Wood Working Machines

See here: http://www.owwm.org

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#8 posted 06-28-2016 06:06 AM

DUH! Thanks

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runswithscissors

2189 posts in 1490 days


#9 posted 06-28-2016 07:25 AM

That fence came on a Rockwell contractor’s saw I bought new about 35 years ago. I hated the fence from the outset, and made myself a T-square style fence.

Take advantage of your dilemma and get a good T square style fence—Biesemeyer, Grizzly, etc. You’ll be much happier.

Here’s the thing about the Jet lock fence: The fence has to be squared anew with every cut you make. Measure over from a front tooth and from a back tooth, or better yet, measure a front tooth then rotate it back to the rear, and measure again. Don’t bump the fence after you get it locked down, because no matter how hard you crank the knob, that hook at the far end can’t grip the pipe solidly enough to prevent movement.

If you want to get the fence out of the way for crosscutting, you have to slide it all the way to the end. Won’t just lift straight up like a T square fence.

At least that was my experience. I have heard of people who like the Jet Lock, and they are welcome to persuade you that I’m wrong.

By the way, I have a few of the spacers, but probably not enough for your needs. Hmmm, if I remember correctly, you need 4. I’ll check tomorrow to see if I still have mine.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1194 days


#10 posted 06-28-2016 01:48 PM

Jody, if you decide to keep the fence after you’ve found the parts you’re looking for, you can measure from the miter slots to square the blade to the fence. It’s easier and a whole lot more accurate than trying to square it from a blade tooth…............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#11 posted 06-29-2016 04:34 AM

Thanks everyone. I might try making the spacers out of stanless steel tubing I have on hand.or if i can get a good deal on the internet.

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MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#12 posted 06-29-2016 04:45 AM

The real deal would probably be best, although some thick walled tubing would work well if you have the means to grind the rounded profile – but still leaves you to work out getting the bolts (screws). In the end, it might just be cheaper and easier to find the correct hardware. The set for ~$36 including shipping on ebay for some OEM ones isn’t too bad… or here is a set of brand new stainless steel ones as well ($33/w free shipping). They are out there, and compared to the overall cost of the machine, relatively inexpensive.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jody495

36 posts in 2085 days


#13 posted 06-29-2016 11:29 AM

Thank you everyone. I think I’ll go for the stainless steel ones on e-bay.Thanks Brad for all your help.

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