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Forum topic by AthensMatt posted 06-26-2016 05:58 PM 491 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AthensMatt

4 posts in 160 days


06-26-2016 05:58 PM

Hello all!
I’m brand new to work working, did some machining years back so I have some understanding of tools and stuff, but By no means do I claim to know or have skill in wood working as y’all do.

I just just purchased a Craftsman Stationary Table Saw model 317.228410 for $200. I hope I did okay with that. I took a dial indicator and checked the arbor and blade, checked the squareness of the fence to the blade, and the blade to the t slots. Everything measured pretty good I thought. Original owner.

So my question, when I try to google that model number I get nothing. I’m wondering what year it is and the its HP is. Here’s what was listed in the ad if it helps:
Craftsman 10 in stationary table saw.
Capacitor start 13/6.5 amp 3,600 rpm motor. V- belt drive.
Solid cast iron table w/ removable cast iron side tables.
Quick release aluminum rip fence w/ fine adjust.
Aluminum front & rear rails.
5 additional blades included. Owner’s manual.




11 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#1 posted 06-26-2016 06:22 PM

you didn’t get a deal but I think you definitely got your money’s worth. Very clean and nice.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4207 posts in 1659 days


#2 posted 06-26-2016 06:41 PM

Not that it helps much, but the same machine can have several different ‘model’ numbers depending on what it came with… the bare saw would have a different model number than one that shipped with a stand, or depending on the fence it came with, or if it had stamped or cast extension wings, etc… The manual that came with it might list the various model numbers associated with it… which you can use to search for more info.

And trying to date Craftsman tools is rather difficult, unless it happens to be stamped on the model/serial number plate. You can get a range, but usually that is about as close as you will get. As for HP, does the motor have a data plate on it (it should)? The HP and other info should be indicated there. If not, based on just the stated amperage, I’d say it’s 1hp with the outside chance it may be 1.5hp (depending on design/SF/efficiency, etc…).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#3 posted 06-26-2016 07:17 PM

I think you got a really good deal on a solid saw with a decent fence. The blade guard is intact and it looks to be in good shape too. The model # likely starts with “315”, and dates between 1997 and 2004. Made by TTI/Ryobi in the same factory that the Ridgid 3650 and 3660. It’s doubtful that the blades are worthwhile, but I could be wrong…some good pics of the blades would help. Nice job!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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MrUnix

4207 posts in 1659 days


#4 posted 06-26-2016 08:02 PM

The model # likely starts with “315”, and dates between 1997 and 2004. Made by TTI/Ryobi in the same factory that the Ridgid 3650 and 3660.
- knotscott

Good catch on the prefix… 317 would indicate it was made by Makita :)
A search for 315.228410 turns up lots of stuff including a manual.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View AthensMatt's profile

AthensMatt

4 posts in 160 days


#5 posted 06-27-2016 01:01 PM

Hey all,

Thanks for all the responses. I’m feeling a little concerned about my purchase. I don’t think I mentioned it but there was some rust on the table. I’ve restored 5 cars so when I looked at it I wasn’t concerned about getting the rust off. The seller mentioned how when he got it, it was in a box and inside the box it was wrapped in cosmoline (sp?). He said he had a hard time getting it all off and how it had caused the rust, that he had always taken care of it. Honestly I believe him (that he took care of it). What he didn’t say, is what lead to my concern, it doesn’t have any serial number.
After getting all the rust off during my cleaning and trying to find the HP on the motor, I found the sticker where the serial number should be. But it looks as though it was cut out with an exacto knife (precisely removed). This got me thinking it must be a factory 2nd, a refurbished saw, stolen, ??? So now I’m guessing my purchase price was less than good and I’m pretty bummed about it.

Well in trying to cheer myself up about it, I stuck a new blade on it. Nothing fancy just a 40 tooth Dewalt Combo/General purpose blade. Then I put my machinists square in against the miter slot, attached my dial indicator with a magnet and found the blade was out of parallel by about .008. I worked on it for about 15-20 minutes and was able to get it parallel within .003. I then ran a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood through it and the cut was actually pretty good. So I guess I’ll lick my wounds and just call this a lesson learned and be happy the saw works decently.

Couple items maybe y’all can help me figure out:

The saw shakes (or bounces/rocks back and forth) at start up. I’m guess this is because I haven’t leveled it to my floor and ensured all legs are in good contact with the ground? Is there something different I should be looking into to help minimize this?

I adjusted the insert be be just below the table. There’s a slight bow in the insert, up in the middle and down at the ends. So I adjusted it so its flush near the saw and just below the table front and back. Should this be concerning? Should I get to work on a zero clearance insert right away?

There is no riving knife or splitter. Should I look at picking up a Micro Jig Splitter as soon as possible to help a new woodworker avoid kickback? Or invest in a Gripper instead, or are both overrated?

Thanks again for your help everyone!

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2089 days


#6 posted 06-27-2016 03:48 PM

I have two similar saws….one is an older c-man, the other a Ridgid 2412. I kept these over a 3hp Unisaw that I got almost free and sold it. The saw you have will do almost everything a hobbyist needs to do. The fence is excellent and will challenge a delta t/or 3 if set up correctly.

Regarding your last 3 questions:

If the saw shakes, check the pulleys for issues, check the belt for condition and coplanarity and check the motor and arbor shafts to make sure they aren’ damaged.

Replace the OEM insert. Keep it for wide bevel cuts. I rarely use my OEM insert.

The apparatus on that saw that holds the blade guard is the splitter. U do not need a micro jig. Properly aligned, that OEM splitter is a very good safety device as it has anti kickback pawls which the micro jig does not have.

Properly set up, it should balance a nickel throughout a bevel rip cut. That’s a good saw and almost a gloat able transaction @ $200. Enjoy it.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#7 posted 06-27-2016 04:03 PM

Try removing the belt to see if the motor still shakes….if not, it’s not the motor so you can move on to trying it without the blade, checking/replacing the belt, checking the belt tension, and the pulleys.

The pics show the stock splitter and blade guard assembly….did it not come with what’s shown?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View AthensMatt's profile

AthensMatt

4 posts in 160 days


#8 posted 06-27-2016 04:28 PM



I have two similar saws….one is an older c-man, the other a Ridgid 2412. I kept these over a 3hp Unisaw that I got almost free and sold it. The saw you have will do almost everything a hobbyist needs to do. The fence is excellent and will challenge a delta t/or 3 if set up correctly.

Regarding your last 3 questions:

If the saw shakes, check the pulleys for issues, check the belt for condition and coplanarity and check the motor and arbor shafts to make sure they aren damaged.

Replace the OEM insert. Keep it for wide bevel cuts. I rarely use my OEM insert.

The apparatus on that saw that holds the blade guard is the splitter. U do not need a micro jig. Properly aligned, that OEM splitter is a very good safety device as it has anti kickback pawls which the micro jig does not have.

Properly set up, it should balance a nickel throughout a bevel rip cut. That s a good saw and almost a gloat able transaction @ $200. Enjoy it.

- toolie

Thanks Toolie, I’ll get to work on the insert next. Regarding the blade guard thing. When I picked up the saw it wasn’t on it but he did give it to me. I mounted to the saw but when I checked alignment, it was WAY off. I’m new, but I didn’t see a way to adjust it to line up with the blade?? Is there one?


Try removing the belt to see if the motor still shakes….if not, it s not the motor so you can move on to trying it without the blade, checking/replacing the belt, checking the belt tension, and the pulleys.

The pics show the stock splitter and blade guard assembly….did it not come with what s shown?

- knotscott

Okay I’ll try to diagnose the startup shake per your advice.
It did come with the guard splitter but it was way out of alignment when I mounted it. Hopefully there’s a way to align it that I wasn’t seeing. Let me know if you know how.
Thanks!!

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#9 posted 06-27-2016 04:42 PM

Had one just like it.

Should be a 1-1/2HP motor.

New belt or even a link belt should help with vibration.

you didn’t get ripped off whatsoever. If I had 200$ and wanted a saw I’d get that one.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2089 days


#10 posted 06-27-2016 07:33 PM

I have two similar saws….one is an older c-man, the other a Ridgid 2412. I kept these over a 3hp Unisaw that I got almost free and sold it. The saw you have will do almost everything a hobbyist needs to do. The fence is excellent and will challenge a delta t/or 3 if set up correctly.

Regarding your last 3 questions:

If the saw shakes, check the pulleys for issues, check the belt for condition and coplanarity and check the motor and arbor shafts to make sure they aren damaged.

Replace the OEM insert. Keep it for wide bevel cuts. I rarely use my OEM insert.

The apparatus on that saw that holds the blade guard is the splitter. U do not need a micro jig. Properly aligned, that OEM splitter is a very good safety device as it has anti kickback pawls which the micro jig does not have.

Properly set up, it should balance a nickel throughout a bevel rip cut. That s a good saw and almost a gloat able transaction @ $200. Enjoy it.

- toolie

Thanks Toolie, I ll get to work on the insert next. Regarding the blade guard thing. When I picked up the saw it wasn t on it but he did give it to me. I mounted to the saw but when I checked alignment, it was WAY off. I m new, but I didn t see a way to adjust it to line up with the blade?? Is there one?

Try removing the belt to see if the motor still shakes….if not, it s not the motor so you can move on to trying it without the blade, checking/replacing the belt, checking the belt tension, and the pulleys.

The pics show the stock splitter and blade guard assembly….did it not come with what s shown?

- knotscott

Okay I ll try to diagnose the startup shake per your advice.
It did come with the guard splitter but it was way out of alignment when I mounted it. Hopefully there s a way to align it that I wasn t seeing. Let me know if you know how.
Thanks!!

- AthensMatt

I have two similar saws….one is an older c-man, the other a Ridgid 2412. I kept these over a 3hp Unisaw that I got almost free and sold it. The saw you have will do almost everything a hobbyist needs to do. The fence is excellent and will challenge a delta t/or 3 if set up correctly.

Regarding your last 3 questions:

If the saw shakes, check the pulleys for issues, check the belt for condition and coplanarity and check the motor and arbor shafts to make sure they aren damaged.

Replace the OEM insert. Keep it for wide bevel cuts. I rarely use my OEM insert.

The apparatus on that saw that holds the blade guard is the splitter. U do not need a micro jig. Properly aligned, that OEM splitter is a very good safety device as it has anti kickback pawls which the micro jig does not have.

Properly set up, it should balance a nickel throughout a bevel rip cut. That s a good saw and almost a gloat able transaction @ $200. Enjoy it.

- toolie

Thanks Toolie, I ll get to work on the insert next. Regarding the blade guard thing. When I picked up the saw it wasn t on it but he did give it to me. I mounted to the saw but when I checked alignment, it was WAY off. I m new, but I didn t see a way to adjust it to line up with the blade?? Is there one?

Try removing the belt to see if the motor still shakes….if not, it s not the motor so you can move on to trying it without the blade, checking/replacing the belt, checking the belt tension, and the pulleys.

The pics show the stock splitter and blade guard assembly….did it not come with what s shown?

- knotscott

Okay I ll try to diagnose the startup shake per your advice.
It did come with the guard splitter but it was way out of alignment when I mounted it. Hopefully there s a way to align it that I wasn t seeing. Let me know if you know how.
Thanks!!

- AthensMatt

Your best bet is Sears. Under the “manage your life” button, it’s possible to look up parts and OEM manuals. The splitter is adjustable, but it’s mounting system is different from both of my saws. And, if I’m not mistaken, the saw you bought is harder to remove and reinstall the splitter than earlier 113 saws like mine. When ryobi took over production from Emerson electric, certain features changed. That saw should still handle whatever you need to do.

BTW, I noticed a push shoe on the particle board platform under the saw. That’s a really good safety device for pushing rip cuts through the blade when they are 12” or less.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View AthensMatt's profile

AthensMatt

4 posts in 160 days


#11 posted 07-13-2016 11:44 PM

Hey guys, First let me say thanks so much for all the help!

Okay so I finally got time on Sunday to look into the saw and am now finally getting a moment to write to y’all.

The startup shake was the ground being uneven and only three legs of the saw touching firmly. Once I leveled it on the ground all was good.

I was able to mount and line up the splitter. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be! I really wish I could remove the blade guard easily but maybe I’ll cut it off later??

I haven’t made an insert yet but I did make a push shoe and push stick…along with a bird house that my boy wanted to make for his mommy.

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