Lubricating and Sealing off Table Saw for Dust collection

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Forum topic by nogeel posted 06-23-2016 05:29 AM 2653 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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77 posts in 1218 days

06-23-2016 05:29 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw craftsman 113 lubricant maintenance refurbishing

This weekend I am planning on tearing down my craftsman 113 table saw and lubrication and sealing it off more for improved dust collection. (Installing PALS and machines pulleys) I have a few things I am looking for advice.

1) What grease/lubricant e do folks recommend for the arbor, trunions, tilt, and raise screws?
2) Woodsmith showed using adheasive foam sheets to the front of the saw to seal it off. Has anyone done this? Any tips or brands to use?
3) Any other tips while i have it tore down?

-- Jeff, Tennessee

17 replies so far

View RDan's profile


80 posts in 2473 days

#1 posted 06-23-2016 06:56 AM

Make sure you properly adjust the limit screws for blade tilt. When I had mine this was one that changed, couldn’t find out which ones they were for a bit because I misplaced the manual. I also did not use my Pals and the top stayed true. Depending on your dust extraction solution, slope the sides of your funnel over the lip of the bottom of the saw. I always had a build up on the lip. I used magnets to hold mine to the bottom of the saw. For covering the front get some magnetic sign sheets and cut to fit. Easily peeled off when changing a setting. Dan

View MikesProjects's profile


172 posts in 2051 days

#2 posted 06-23-2016 07:35 AM

White lithium grease, others can weigh in but thats works for me.

-- -Mike, Southern California, YouTube User ( Give & Take )

View RandyinFlorida's profile


257 posts in 2217 days

#3 posted 06-23-2016 12:34 PM

a quick Google revealed using dry molybdenum (spray). That’s what I would probably use. I also saw a reference for using paste wax. Neither of these will not attract sawdust. I think lithium, while an excellent lubricant remains “moist” and would collect dust.

-- Randy in Crestview Florida, Wood Rocks!

View TMGStudioFurniture's profile


55 posts in 968 days

#4 posted 06-23-2016 06:34 PM

I use Minwax Paste Finishing Wax, it’s generally meant for wood, but it works well as a dry lubricant for the moving parts of your saw. I also use it on the top to keep it from rusting. (it also makes a good cutting lubricant when drilling steel).

One guy on youtube mixed dry graphite and hard wax (like candle wax) and used that a lubricant. I’ve been meaning to mix some graphite and the Minwax wax mentioned above – I think that would be a good combination.

I wouldn’t use a ‘wet’ grease, as it will just gather sawdust like mad. That’s the advantage of the wax/graphite mix, it stays dry.


View AlaskaGuy's profile


4524 posts in 2458 days

#5 posted 06-23-2016 07:18 PM

Paste wax. Don’t seal it up to tight.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View nogeel's profile


77 posts in 1218 days

#6 posted 06-25-2016 04:39 AM

I think I am going to spray with Blaster dry lube with Teflon and then put a cost of paste wax on top. Hopefully that will work.

-- Jeff, Tennessee

View CygnusA's profile


6 posts in 940 days

#7 posted 06-27-2016 04:52 PM

I have a new Sawstop coming this week. The manual indicates lubrication points, but does not say whether it comes pre-lubricated or not? Does anyone know? The Grizzly I had previously specifically states I needed to lubricated it during the assembly steps.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5072 posts in 4110 days

#8 posted 06-27-2016 07:23 PM

Many folks have sealed the TS TOO well. Ya gotta have some make-up air to move the dust.
Lube? I have used the Liquid Wrench dry Teflon spray with good results.


View Richard's profile


1922 posts in 2839 days

#9 posted 06-27-2016 07:45 PM

+1 for the Blaster dry lube spray or Liquid Wrench dry Teflon spray since they won’t attract the saw dust. Lots of other brands of the same type stuff depending on what you can find locally.

View bbc557ci's profile


595 posts in 2223 days

#10 posted 06-27-2016 07:51 PM

‘nuther vote for paste wax. Works great.

-- Bill, central where near the "big apple"

View JayT's profile (online now)


5893 posts in 2360 days

#11 posted 06-27-2016 07:55 PM

+1 to AlaskaGuy and Bill White on leaving enough opening to move the air.

When I added dust collection to my 113, all I did was box in the bottom and left the rest alone. Still captured almost all the cutting dust.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View nogeel's profile


77 posts in 1218 days

#12 posted 06-29-2016 02:58 PM

I bought both Paste Wax and Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon. I ended up just putting the dry lube on.

Basically for dust collection I am going to do what is in this woodsmith article:

Add connection for dust collection to the bottom of the saw.
Put foam on the front of the saw
Add pipe foam between case and table top.
Create plywood or MDF Back.

I figure the plywood back would have enough holes not to block off too much air.

Any reason any of that is a bad idea

-- Jeff, Tennessee

View TheFridge's profile


10360 posts in 1635 days

#13 posted 06-29-2016 03:20 PM

When you wax the top just follow the directions. Wax on. Let dry. Wax off. Then repeat another 3-4 times. After that you’re good for awhile. Just a once over every now and again. Hell, I haven’t had to wax my saw in almost a year.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View JollyGreen67's profile


1676 posts in 2912 days

#14 posted 06-29-2016 04:28 PM

Like Bill says – Don’t seal it into a vacuum, gotta have air movement to extract the dust.

-- When I was a kid I wanted to be older . . . . . this CRAP is not what I expected ! RIP 09/08/2018

View dannyfixit's profile


17 posts in 2784 days

#15 posted 07-06-2016 04:17 AM

I have a Unisaw and got a tip to close some of its major openings. First kewl one that is fairly cheap is to get some of the magnetic register covers from Lowes/HD. They are with all the air duct register covers. Several to a pack. They are just some of that flexible magnetic rubber similar to your refrigerator magnets. I slapped them over the slot for the height adjust wheel in the front. One of them, I cut a slot in to fit around the shaft of the wheel. Between the two of them, they can cover the slot, but are easily moved/adjusted if I should tilt the blade (thus moving the wheel shaft).

All other extraneous gaps, I plugged or covered somehow. The most challenging ones were the gaps between the sheet metal base of the saw and the ribs under the cast iron top. For that, I took can of spray insulating foam. Try not to make a mess, but it does fill in and if it ooozes out you can trim it off with a knife once it cures.

-- - Follow your passion...

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