Any pretreatment for a bartop before epoxy?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by bhacksaw posted 06-22-2016 03:01 PM 338 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View bhacksaw's profile


160 posts in 1242 days

06-22-2016 03:01 PM

I have two black walnut slabs i’ve butt-jointed. planed, sanded and scraped. I wiped the dust off. Is there anything i can do to ensure the best looking color and grain (there’s a few curly maple butterfly keys) before putting down the mirror coat epoxy?

4 replies so far

View pontic's profile


51 posts in 26 days

#1 posted 09-30-2016 06:24 PM

What you see is what you get with epoxy coats. Do a test piece first. Remember to have a heat gun handy when you apply it to chase out the bubbles.


View JayT's profile


4670 posts in 1629 days

#2 posted 09-30-2016 07:23 PM

If it was me, I’d hit it with some kind of finish first to darken the walnut, the epoxy may not do that. Danish oil or Tung oil would do a good job with color for the walnut, but will take a while to dry. De-waxed shellac, either from flakes or something like Zinsser Sealcoat, might be a good choice, too.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Andre's profile


992 posts in 1223 days

#3 posted 09-30-2016 08:44 PM

Make sure that it is REAL DRY! and warm! Any moisture and it could go cloudy happened on my Bar top using West Epoxy.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View Kelly's profile


1039 posts in 2362 days

#4 posted 09-30-2016 09:08 PM

I used to buy my fifty-fifty mix in two five gallon cans at a time. Said another way, I’ve poured quite a bit of epoxy.

Early on, I learned to seal the surface before I poured. Otherwise, heating the pour would remove the bubbles, but would also draw more air out of the wood.

When I was doing plaques with photos or clippings, I used white glue to adhere the item to the wood, then brushed a coat or two over the clipping or photo. For news clippings, this stopped the print on the other side from bleeding through, like always did if I used oil based poly or just poured over them.

For burls and such, I just thinned poly and slopped it on, generously. After it dried, I went for it.

Oddly, I’ve never really taken the time to do a side by test using hardening oil [to get the “pop” of the grain] then covering it with poly, then just putting the poly on without the oil. As such, I cannot say whether there is a notable difference. Of course, switching to waterborne poly would be a game changer. One not for the better, I suspect.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics