Table Saw Rust

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Forum topic by D1st posted 04-25-2010 12:37 AM 2135 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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290 posts in 3069 days

04-25-2010 12:37 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tip question resource trick tablesaw refurbishing traditional rust

I just went out to my shop to see how everything was after a big storm that rolled thru here. Unfortunately I have a good leak in the roof. I didnt know this until I walked by the table saw and noticed that the top had an odd color on it. I didnt have the lights on so it wasnt noticed quickly. I ran my hand along the saw and could feel the grit from the rust on the table. Im lucky it wasnt anything real bad. I just bought the saw off of craigslist and now its a mess. I’ve never had this problem and was needing some tips. Your help is appreciated.


20 replies so far

View dmoney's profile


191 posts in 3108 days

#1 posted 04-25-2010 12:51 AM

I’d go at it with some WD-40 and green scratch pads, you probably already have those.

-- Derek, Iowa

View j_olsen's profile


155 posts in 3201 days

#2 posted 04-25-2010 12:52 AM

I normally keep all my tools with cast iron parts waxed and try to remember to do it after 2 or 3 uses

-- Jeff - Bell Buckle, TN

View bigike's profile


4052 posts in 3318 days

#3 posted 04-25-2010 01:13 AM

what i did was get one of those moving pads you see on uhaul trucks or other furniture moving trucks and put that over my saw after a good wax this protecs it from alot of stuff that could happen in the shop.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 3089 days

#4 posted 04-25-2010 01:28 AM

It depends how rusty it is
If light rust use steel wool or sandpaper. Use WD-40 as lubricant for both of those. Keep in mind that Wd-40 does not remove rust.

for heay rust

ROS with WD 40 or brush evapro-rust

View Marc5's profile


304 posts in 3371 days

#5 posted 04-25-2010 01:33 AM

I use paste wax and it works well. Apply every month or so and you should be good to go. Try a orbital sander with 320 grit paper to smooth out the top and remove the rust; it shouldn’t affect the flatness of the top.

-- Marc

View araldite's profile


188 posts in 3433 days

#6 posted 04-25-2010 01:51 AM

Sanding or scrubbing with WD-40 as a lubricant is a good idea but then you want to clean all that off with mineral spirits and rags. Rust promotes more rust so the more you can clean it off the better. Then come back with another coat of WD-40 because it will penetrate down into the cast iron. But WD-40 will evaporate off over time so spray on a coat of Boeshield T-9 or similar product, which is a rust inhibitor and lubricant. After it dries I like to apply a coat of paste wax on top of that and reapply every few weeks. Maybe it’s an overkill but it will prevent future rusting. I use Renaissance wax, which is basically polyethylene, and will not contaminate the wood and cause finishing problems.

-- Failure is the road to success if you learn to learn from your mistakes - Vince, Greenville, SC

View D1st's profile


290 posts in 3069 days

#7 posted 04-25-2010 02:37 AM

I like the ideas. Thank you fellas. I will fix the roof problem tomorrow and then get on the rust.


View canadianchips's profile


2602 posts in 3026 days

#8 posted 04-25-2010 04:43 AM

There is a product called NAVAL jelly. Cleans rust very well from tools. Then I use carubba wax.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18293 posts in 3705 days

#9 posted 04-25-2010 04:56 AM

WD-40 doesn’t prevent rust, it lubricates and displaces water..

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View a1Jim's profile


117128 posts in 3606 days

#10 posted 04-25-2010 05:08 AM

I use rubbing compound and scotch brite pad beneath a random orbital sander to take the rust of and then keep using clean rags with the ROS until clean ,then use a clean rag and a ROS to apply a good wax(automotive or floor wax) until it looks like new, the hand wax once a week.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View D1st's profile


290 posts in 3069 days

#11 posted 04-25-2010 04:25 PM

Jim, Automotive or floor wax? That would work on my table and not mess with the wood that goes across the surface. What kind of Auto/floor wax do you use?


View Ger21's profile


1075 posts in 3160 days

#12 posted 04-25-2010 05:04 PM

View a1Jim's profile


117128 posts in 3606 days

#13 posted 04-25-2010 05:04 PM

Any good wax without silicone will work . I’ve used a number of brands I think the one I’ve use most has been McGuire’s auto wax. Because you remove the largest percentage of the wax from the table saw surface it doesn’t affect finishing unless your wax has silicone in it.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View BTKS's profile


1986 posts in 3493 days

#14 posted 04-25-2010 05:43 PM

Sounds like all the guys above nailed it.
To keep cast iron tops protected during winter or spring, when warm wet air moves in over cold steel and leaves a layer of condensation then rust.
I cut single piece covers out of foam board, rigid foam insulation. I’ve used one inch and 1/4 inch fan fold, underlayment for vinyl siding, with equal success. Anything that keeps the warm air from direct contact with the iron until the iron has a chance to warm up past the due point for that day.
I’ve had fully waxed or T-9 protected tools rust after a sudden wet warming trend. This is the first winter with the foam and I have not had a bit of problem.
This also protects from drops or other accidents in the shop.
Hope this helps, BTKS

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

View D1st's profile


290 posts in 3069 days

#15 posted 04-25-2010 09:15 PM

Thanks again everyone for the ideas and tips. Just got the roof fixed. Now on to the hardware store for some product, and a cover. Have a nice weekend, or end of weekend.


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