Kerf Cut Hinges

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Forum topic by DonFaulk0517 posted 04-24-2010 04:36 AM 5232 views 2 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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131 posts in 2910 days

04-24-2010 04:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I saw some boxes at an Arts & Craft type store in Sedona Arizona. The box is a nice looking box built out of curly maple. I noticed that the brass hinges were kerf-cut style hinges. Does anyone have experience in cutting slots for this type of hinge (Rockler sells them and the special kerf blade?... Kerf-cut hinge

Also… does anyone use these hinges and know their durability?



5 replies so far

View tblank's profile


57 posts in 2393 days

#1 posted 04-24-2010 08:45 PM

These are used in conjuction with a biscuit cutter, hence the barbs. You can insert but the barbs are supposed to prevent pull-out. I’ve never used these, but hope the barbs are strong enough for everyday use.

View jcsterling's profile


420 posts in 3009 days

#2 posted 04-25-2010 01:56 AM

you have to buy the blade and arbor assembly appropriate for the size hinge. I chuck the blade in my router and cut the kerfs at the slowest speed. cut the kerfs and put the hinge in. you get a little bit of adjusting but you cannot take the hinges out without tearing up the box. They are pretty durable but I would not use them on a box wiht a heavy lid without some kind of support chain. Oh you also need to cut a 45 on the back of the box and lid to allow the lid to open.

-- John , Central PA , on facebook:!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

View majeagle1's profile


1426 posts in 2920 days

#3 posted 04-25-2010 02:52 AM

jcsterling is right, you need to buy the appropriate size arbor/blade for the hinge.
I have used these hinges on my boxes for the past couple of years and have had absolutely no problems with them.
You not only need to cut a 45 on the back edge of the top and base but you also need to cut a 3/64 rabbet in the back edge of the top and base as well. This is for the hinge barrel to sit in.

The best description I have found for the installation of these is in David M. Freedman’s book ” Bos Making Basics ”.

Regarding durability, I use them on boxes up to 15×9 with 1/2” thick lids. Have had no problems. If you feel that they are not secure enought in the slot, you can drop a drop of CA glue or Epoxy into the slot for additional strength.
On anything bigger/thicker, I woud go with the brusso hinges. This is what I use on humidors due to the thickness of the lid / spanish ceder lining.

Hope this helps…........

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks,,

View Scott Walton's profile

Scott Walton

3 posts in 2103 days

#4 posted 03-03-2011 04:04 PM

Hello, I use these a good deal for pen boxes and jewelry boxes. I was a bit anxious (not really just hesitant) about the blade…and the conflicting reports about the use both in a router table or in drill press. I’m told that the router is much to fast.
Long story short, I found that using a Dremel saw and a jig I made for my drill press is perfect. Just recently I found a whole set of small saw blades at Harbour Frieght Tools that uses the Dremel mandral (not the over priced one “stated” for the hinges.
The hinges are great and I have gotten to love the ease of using them instead of the 5mm barrel hinges which are getting tougher to find…

-- Walton Woodworks Ltd.

View azor's profile


62 posts in 2866 days

#5 posted 08-27-2011 05:10 PM

To test lid and bottom positioning take a couple of the barbed hinges and beat in the barbs. Make a test cut in a piece of scrap and check that you can slip it in and out without the barbs grabbing hold. This way you can test your positioning of the top and bottom of your box before committing to installation of the permanent hinges.

-- It isn't as easy as the demos make it seem.

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