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Solid or hollow bedpost?

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Forum topic by CudaDude posted 06-15-2016 07:06 PM 474 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CudaDude

176 posts in 1776 days


06-15-2016 07:06 PM

I’m in the thinking stage of a bed I want to build for my daughter, I know it’s going to have either a 4×4 or 3×3 post at each corner and more than likely be built in poplar. I would like to go the cheaper route and build hollow posts with locking miter joints but I’m concerned about the bed rail to post connections with a hollow post. I was considering hollow post with a filler block at the point where the rail to connections would be. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or, do you think a post that is entirely hollow would work? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.

-- Gary


10 replies so far

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

295 posts in 216 days


#1 posted 06-15-2016 07:16 PM

Heck, I use solid posts, just because it’s easier to do.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1812 posts in 606 days


#2 posted 06-15-2016 08:21 PM

Depends on how thick your walls are. If you’re using 3/4 material, then yes, it will hold fine. I’d put tee nuts in the wall adjacent to the rails and use those for the joint – the bolted through-joint will be stronger than wood screws. On the other hand, if you’re using material 1/2” or thinner, you’ll need a filler at the joint.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1837 days


#3 posted 06-15-2016 08:30 PM

I made my daughter’s bed, and laminated solid posts. What size bed is this? If its a twin, 4×4 is probably going to look odd, proportionally, but 3×3 would probably look OK. I think I went with 2-3/8”. I used 2, 7/8” pieces, with a 5/8” piece in between. I cut notches out of the 5/8” piece with the dado set before the glue-up, so when the legs were glued up, I had perfect mortises in the legs for the footboard and headboard. I worked great.

I’d take cardboard and build a leg that’s 4×4, and another at 3×3, to give yourself an idea of the proportions, based on the size (twin/full/etc) of the bed.

With a 3×3, you’re not saving any wood by going with locking miter joints. Consider building a 3”x3”, 12” tall post, assume 3/4 stock :

- With locking miter’s, you’d need four 3”x12” pieces.
- With solid, you can laminate four 3”x12” pieces.

For a 4×4 post, you’d be using roughly 50% more stock to build a solid post.

If you’re painting it, which I’m guessing with poplar you are (I did as well), I would do the solid laminations just for the ease of glue-up/clamping/setup, and move on.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View sepeck's profile

sepeck

314 posts in 1609 days


#4 posted 06-15-2016 08:36 PM

I laminated 1×3s for my sons loft bed.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101990

In part because the plans looked good, but in large part because I tend to flinch somewhat when I see dimensional lumber as finished dimension in projects now, but that’s a personal quirk.

-- -Steven Peck, http://www.blkmtn.org

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CudaDude

176 posts in 1776 days


#5 posted 06-15-2016 08:57 PM

Ken, yes it’s 3/4.

Ed, thanks for the info, some great ideas that I can definitely use. Yeah, I guess 4×4 is kinda big for a twin bed

sepeck, that’s cool. I wish my daughter would go for a camo bed… Maybe I need to shoot for a boy.

-- Gary

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4037 posts in 1819 days


#6 posted 06-15-2016 10:30 PM

If you go with hollow posts I would put a filler block in from the floor to the side rail attachment point. I honestly don’t think you’ll save much in materials. There is a lot of waste in making hollow posts with a lock miter joint, not really worth it if you are using poplar and probably a wash on the amount of material anyway. The reason for using a lock miter hollow post is when you want to have quarter sawn grain on 4 faces. It is a lot of extra work.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

822 posts in 388 days


#7 posted 06-16-2016 02:57 AM

CudaDude,

If you elect to laminate stock to create posts, re-sawing a 1/8” thick by the width of the post and then gluing the re-sawn piece over the edges of the lamination (the glue seams) will leave the appearance of a solid post. The glue line created by gluing on the 1/8” piece and be concealed with a roundover or some other profile.

Once the posts get over 3” thick, ripping and crosscutting become more of a problem since a 10” table saw cannot cut much more than 3”. Using the bandsaw to make cuts is possible but requires more clean-up.

View ThistleDown's profile

ThistleDown

12 posts in 185 days


#8 posted 06-16-2016 06:31 PM

Hollow would be OK. Remember glue is stronger than wood. I would use blocks inside at the connection points. But, as stated, solid is way easier.

-- My biggest fear is that when I am gone, my wife will sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2281 days


#9 posted 06-16-2016 06:48 PM

I have made them both solid, and hollow with a locking miter bit. On the hollow version, I used mortise and tenons to register the bed rails in position (no blocking required). The joints are dry, with no glue, and secured with threaded bed rail bolts.

Hollow leg version: http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/38289

Solid leg version: http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/37705

Hardware: Rockler or Mcfeeley’s

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View CudaDude's profile

CudaDude

176 posts in 1776 days


#10 posted 06-17-2016 05:50 PM



I have made them both solid, and hollow with a locking miter bit. On the hollow version, I used mortise and tenons to register the bed rails in position (no blocking required). The joints are dry, with no glue, and secured with threaded bed rail bolts.

Hollow leg version: http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/38289

Solid leg version: http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/37705

Hardware: Rockler or Mcfeeley s

- pintodeluxe

Thanks, that’s the same hardware I planned on using to make the connection.

-- Gary

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