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Accurate repeat bevel cuts on TS3650

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Forum topic by siouxdawgs0409 posted 04-22-2010 02:43 AM 1518 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1751 days


04-22-2010 02:43 AM

Hello all.

I am looking for some ideas and tips on getting accurate repeat bevel cuts on my table saw. I am making a shelf in the shape of a box that I do not want any endgrain displayed on the top, sides, front or bottom of the box. So I figure I will bevel the those sides to 45 and piece them together. The only thing is that I need these pieces to fit together as tight and accurate as possible. Since I have not a whole lot of experience doing this on my saw I thought I would ask for some tips on achieving my goal. I have acheived accurate cuts if I only have to make one or two cuts but with this project I am going to make a few more cuts and I need my saw to remain accurate. The pieces are approx 8 inches by 8 inches and 5/8 inch thick. Thanks for all your input. I would also like to add that I do also have a router mounted in a table with a nice fence that would make accurate cuts as well.


8 replies so far

View Gofor's profile

Gofor

470 posts in 2444 days


#1 posted 04-22-2010 03:33 AM

I also have the 3650.

Inserting 1/2 (added after the following): First run scrap strips to make sure the blade is exactly at 45 degrees. then:

1st: You have to have a miter gauge that cuts the same every time. The stock gauge is sloppy in the slot, and the slot probably is tight at the front and back ends. I bought an Osbourne EB-3, and also had to do a little filing on the front and back of the slots to open them up. The stock gauge maybe can be tightened up by peening the edges with a nail set or center punch. You will need to add a good solid straight fence to it. Also, when pushing the miter gauge past the blade (whether stock or after-market), always put a little pressure to either the outside or inside of the miter slot. Does not matter which, just as long as you do the same thing with every cut. I go to the outside, so that if my hand slips, it is moving a way from the blade.

2nd: An option is to make a 45 degree bevel cross cut sled. With runners in both slots, the wiggle will be less. Longer runners in the slot will also reduce any deviation.

3rd: The pieces have to stay flat on the table, (or sled) as well as not move sideways, so a hold-down centered on the runner is needed, or a good large flat push block. You can clamp a feather board or block of square stock to the miter gauge fence to do this, also. Just make sure all saw dust and chips are clear from the fence when you put the work up against it. A 1/64th inch wood sliver trapped between the fence and your work will really screw up a miter cut (DAMHIKT)

4th: To prevent tear-out, make a Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI) (Not needed if its a dedicated 45 degree sled)

5th: Add splines to the corners as mitered corners make mechanically weak joints.

I guess the best way would be to make a good sled, especially if you have a lot of pieces. If you can afford to buy a good after-market miter gauge (Osbourne, Incra, etc) this is the time. Unless you have some good quality material on hand to make the sled, you will end up spending half the price on the miter gauge for the materials to make it.

JMTCW, but I hope this helps

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15698 posts in 2875 days


#2 posted 04-22-2010 03:47 AM

I assumed you were talking about tilting the blade? The easiest way to make sure your blade is set at 45 degrees is to use a digital angle gauge like this:

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1751 days


#3 posted 04-22-2010 04:07 AM

Does the TS3650 hold the beveled angle of 45 degrees cut after cut?

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

1722 posts in 1766 days


#4 posted 04-22-2010 04:23 AM

What Charlie M. said, with one other suggestion- Make sure that where you put the table saw is level at the flat part of the saw before you make angle measurements. You can verify it’s level with a standard spirit level to within one minute of angle.

View Les Hastings's profile

Les Hastings

1275 posts in 2430 days


#5 posted 04-22-2010 04:37 AM

All of the above is great information, but I’ll add one more thing.

Double cut all your miters…........Leave half the thickness of your saw blade on the first cut. Then re-set and re-cut the piece to the final width removing only half the thickness of your saw blade on the last cut.

This will give you a much finer and straighter cut resulting in a better fitting joint.

-- Les, Wichita, Ks. (I'd rather be covered in saw dust!)

View siouxdawgs0409's profile

siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1751 days


#6 posted 04-22-2010 05:17 AM

I was looking at the Incra 1000se vs the EB-3. I do like how the Eb has the 45 angle on the blade side to help with what I am trying to do here. As I would have support almost all the way to the corner of the bevel. Has anyone used the Incra in a situation like this and just had the piece extending past the fence of the mitre?

View mancave's profile

mancave

114 posts in 1721 days


#7 posted 04-22-2010 02:46 PM

I vote for the digital angle gauge. I love mine

View bladeburner's profile

bladeburner

88 posts in 1744 days


#8 posted 04-22-2010 02:58 PM

Everything mentioned already is good info, but don’t overlook the blade alignment when tilted. The blade may be perfectly aligned at 90deg, but may heel or twist at 45.

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