Ripping Hardwood - Bad Finished Cut - Circular Markings

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Forum topic by dcase84 posted 06-10-2016 09:29 PM 1715 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 1176 days

06-10-2016 09:29 PM

I recently upgraded from a Delta/Rockwell Unisaw to a newer (36-869) version.

The last saw wasn’t exactly high quality, so I didn’t put much effort into alignment or blades, but it served it’s purpose. Now that I upgraded, I’m trying to dial everything in the right way.

I have the blade and miter slot aligned, as well as the fence and miter slot. Rear of the fence is kicked out .003” to the right. There’s about .004” run out in full blade rotation. Just installed a 30T Woodworker II.

My test piece is 1” thick red oak. Even with a skim cut about half the blade kerf I’m getting circular saw markings on the cut surface. Based on the arc of these markings, it’s telling me they’re coming from the front end, vs material hitting the rear of the blade. The markings are shallow, but I can still feel them.

I did notice with the saw running, the belts kind of flop around, but are tight when not running. This saw is very close to new, I’m not sure what it was used for, but I see practically zero wear in the machine.

Is the Woodworker II 30T just too aggressive for 1” Oak? Would my .004” run out cause this?

12 replies so far

View Woodchuck2010's profile


718 posts in 977 days

#1 posted 06-10-2016 09:45 PM

I had trouble with my Woodworker II 40T blade also. It had excessive tear out. I was advised to send it back with an example of the cut. They ended up reworking the blade. It’s much better now, but still not as good as my Premier Fusion Freud blade. If everything is lined up, you might want to give them a call. I’ll be buying Freud from now on.

-- Chuck, Michigan,

View teejk02's profile


484 posts in 1244 days

#2 posted 06-10-2016 09:55 PM

30T seems to be a little aggressive…will cut quick but speed comes with the trade-off of marks. I have a rarely used 80 on the wall but find that is a little hard to control. I stick to 40’s…

View pintodeluxe's profile


5741 posts in 2932 days

#3 posted 06-10-2016 10:12 PM

Make sure the test board is freshly jointed, so there is a true reference surface. Then try a 40 tooth blade, and see how they compare.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View clin's profile


920 posts in 1115 days

#4 posted 06-10-2016 10:50 PM

I’m new to these sort of table saw details, but wouldn’t 4 mils of run out explain this? Perhaps more so with a 30T blade.

Inquiring minds want to know.

-- Clin

View TheFridge's profile


10113 posts in 1605 days

#5 posted 06-10-2016 11:00 PM

I wouldn’t use 30t for finishing cuts.

Sounds like your fence needs to be pulled in a hair

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2670 posts in 3041 days

#6 posted 06-11-2016 12:33 AM

I use 24 teeth blades for ripping and get zero saw marks.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

View dcase84's profile


16 posts in 1176 days

#7 posted 06-11-2016 01:05 AM

I have a 40T on order now. If that produces similar results, then I’ll know it has to be something in my setup.

View AZWoody's profile


1396 posts in 1343 days

#8 posted 06-11-2016 04:34 AM

I have a 40T on order now. If that produces similar results, then I ll know it has to be something in my setup.

- dcase84

You might want to see if you can adjust the runout better before dropping money on a blade for no reason.

Glue line rip blades are 30 tooth so I don’t know why people are saying to go up to a higher tooth count.
Sure, it may look a little better but it would only be covering up the problem in the alignment that’s already there in your saw.

View DirtyMike's profile


637 posts in 1021 days

#9 posted 06-11-2016 05:17 AM

I wouldn’t think tooth count is your problem. Do you have another ripping blade to try?

View knotscott's profile


8122 posts in 3495 days

#10 posted 06-11-2016 05:26 AM

My experience with the 30T WWII is that it’s very good with only very minor milling marks….nearly as good as the 40T WWII. As mentioned, it’s important that the board is flat and straight. Another decent quality blade could help rule out that the 30T WWII is defective. If other blades show milling marks, it’s something in the saw….arbor flange runout, pulley misalignment, bad belt, bad bearings, etc.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MrRon's profile


4991 posts in 3363 days

#11 posted 06-11-2016 04:18 PM

My money is on the .004 runout. If the blade wobbles .004”, then you would be able to feel the markings. Also make sure you don’t over-tighten the arbor nut, as that can distort the blade.

View dcase84's profile


16 posts in 1176 days

#12 posted 06-12-2016 05:01 AM

Tonight I checked run out on the arbor flange. .001, or less in all directions.

I may have found a potential cause. Apparently the handle to the lock knobs are just spinning on the shafts. I’m sure the threads are somewhat seized up, no clue how I’ll remove these. I only have .50” at most to grab on to.

Would the angle and height adjustment running in an “unlocked” state cause enough vibration here to create the milling marks?

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