LumberJocks

Farmhouse Table Sketchup

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by myxology posted 06-10-2016 02:31 PM 518 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View myxology's profile

myxology

47 posts in 707 days


06-10-2016 02:31 PM

Hello all,

I am trying to build a farmhouse style table, for the first time. I’m only about 2 years into woodworking and I’ve never built a table, that I can remember. A few cabinets, but not a free standing table like this. I could use your help looking over my plans to see what rookie mistakes I might be making here.

This will be an outdoor table. I plan to stain and seal it and I’m going to be using 2×4 and 2×10 douglas fir boards. Trying to keep the cost down. Most of the design is pretty straight forward, but I’d still like to hear what you guys think.

My current plan is to take 1/8” off each side of the boards to remove the roundover. I was also thinking I might run the table top boards through the thickness planer before assembly to get a smoother top. I am thinking of making the top by using biscuits and glue and would love some feedback on that idea. Then I was going to use a powered hand planer to flatten the top and then I suppose I will be sanding for days. :) Also, I’m a bit concerned about milling the table top pieces and then how long I should let them sit before I do the glue up as I don’t want them to twist. A day, a week, a month? Longer?

I think the rest of the construction; legs, aprons, etc. look pretty good but any feedback is welcome. I am sharing the link to my sketchup file here for anybody that might want to look at it in detail. That would be really cool, so long as you don’t make fun of what I named the components. :) Such a rookie.

Thanks in advance to all your help! Very much appreciated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b3l3iev0piam7v2/farm%20house%20table.skp?dl=0


5 replies so far

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1809 posts in 2548 days


#1 posted 06-10-2016 04:12 PM

If the boards are kiln dried you should be able to use right away. I use biscuits for glue ups like yours. Helps keep the alignment. Make the sure the bread board end floats!

I have run a lot of 2X through the table saw to remove the round over and run through the thickness planer to clean them up. Works fine. Look at a router sled for the milling operation. Unless you want to hand plane it.

Start with 80 or 100 grit paper. Anything courser will leave deep cuts that will take days to get back out. The plane should get you close to finished though.

You also might have to glue the top in two or three steps depending on the working time of the glue.

Clamps, clamps and more clamps.

-- Chris K

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1818 days


#2 posted 06-10-2016 06:47 PM

Kiln dried construction lumber is only dried down to 19% MC. That is pretty wet for furniture. Ideal is in the 6-8% range. I would mill it then let it sit for a few weeks, stacked and stickered someplace dry. Looking at your drawing I would be concerned about the joinery between the long and short stretchers. I can’t really tell how that joint is going to be done.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

978 posts in 920 days


#3 posted 06-11-2016 05:27 AM

Buy Select instead of #2 Common.

If you buy green (CCA) treated lumber be sure to collect the sawdust as CCA sawdust is TOXIC.

The most important step in wood stabilization is to get equal finish on all faces quickly after machining. Machine & build & finish with no delay for best results.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

303 posts in 1929 days


#4 posted 06-11-2016 02:18 PM

The rail/ stretcher joint is unresolved in that plan…. A split rail meeting up with that long stretcher will sag no matter how you join it… It’s suggest a solid rail and the stretcher being mortised into it. I hope that makes sense.

The bread boards will need to allow for wood movement.

I’d consider using a really durable wood like Teak for an outside table- I know cost is a concern, but there is a good chance you rebuild that table in the near future with below ideal materials… Just a thought.

View myxology's profile

myxology

47 posts in 707 days


#5 posted 06-11-2016 07:01 PM

Thanks for all the input guys. Ummm, I’m trying to make sense of everything. :)

bondogaposis – I actually may be able to let it dry that long, so thanks for the tip. Do you think I’ll have to mill it again after? it my bow or twist or something, right?

MadMark – Thanks for the tip, I’ll but Select. And I will be doing dust collection as I go, even though I’m not using treated wood.

bondogaposis and Logan – I THINK you’re talking about the long board on the bottom where your feet would be and the short boards they are connected to, correct? Is that what you call the rails and the stretcher? If so, my plan is to notch both boards, one on top and one on bottom and glue and screw them together. I don’t know what you’d call that joint, but that’s the plan right now.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com