Finish for Purpleheart tabletop

I like to let Purpleheart set for a few days after cutting and sanding to get the nice deep purple color. I generally use varnish or shellac. For the durability, varnish or lacquer would be the way to go.

Try out the rounding on a scrap piece first, but I think you will find it works fine. As you can see on my cutting board , I rounded all the sides on both the top and bottom. No difference in the Purpleheart and Maple on the rounded edges. I also cut some coves on the undersides of my chessboard , and the Purpleheart was fine and sanded smooth.

Good luck and I am looking forward to seeing your project soon.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Thanks Bill, I am new to woodworking and the finishing part is what scares me the most. Hopefully I will get some time to work on some projects over the Christmas break. I will definitely try any modifications out on some scrap first.

Love your cutting boards. I’ve been thinking it would be nice to get some kind of branding iron for that personal touch.

-- The Christian Home is the Master's workshop, where the processes of character molding are silently, lovingly, faithfully, and successfully carried on.

The branding irons are not too much, less than $100 from Rockler or Woodcraft. I think several other places have them as well. Mine is the electric model, so I just plug it in about an hour before I am going to use it, to make sure it is good and warm. It does a good job, and lots of people seem to notice it on the pictures.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

I’ve always like shellac on Purpleheart (another member posted a similar question just a few days ago).
As Bill stated lacquer would do very well also. I’ve not used since I don’t have the equipment to spray
it on, but would if I could.

Purpleheart will oxidize after exposing the grain through a range of colors, usually within
a day or two of cutting/sanding it. If left completely on it’s own, it will pass the purple/deep
red hues and continue on into a ruddy brown. A sealant coat of shellac/lacquer will ‘freeze’
the hue where you want it to stay (to a point).

-- Still learning everything

I used Cabot’s SPF outdoor stain for my purpleheart and cedar bench. It has high UV protection which means it includes pigment but as you can see from the photos the pigment did not hide the purpleheart color.

It has been outside almost a year and still looks fine. Although it is in a shaded backyard ( not direct sun );

These are the orginal photos. Don’t have a recent one. Purpleheart Bench

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "

I love purpleheart. Do you have any pictures?

I will try to take some pictures of the table over the holidays. Would love to get it finished up, but am working on many projects around the house.

-- The Christian Home is the Master's workshop, where the processes of character molding are silently, lovingly, faithfully, and successfully carried on.

Cool, I’m like 6 years new myself to working w exotics or hard woods, and purple heart sure it tuff. I still have a plank sitting right over there>. Let me know what you decide to use or do to finish your table top, I’ve been trying oils and wax’s lately, for indoor works… think my favorite is watco danish oil finish, if you don’t want to start a chemistry experiment. It stays true to the solid great wood tone, I think. Let me know. Patrick Miles . ny

-- PJM.`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ ><((((º> ""BY HAMMER AND HAND ALL ARTS DO STAND""1785-1974 nyc Semper Fi, Patrick M

How did your finishing go? We are looking forward to some pictures soon.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Can’t wait to see the purple heart..

-- PJM.`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ ><((((º> ""BY HAMMER AND HAND ALL ARTS DO STAND""1785-1974 nyc Semper Fi, Patrick M