Question on TS fence rear glide/support

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Forum topic by Mike_D_S posted 06-06-2016 02:47 PM 345 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mike_D_S's profile


174 posts in 1637 days

06-06-2016 02:47 PM

So I’m getting ready to finally start on my out feed table rebuild. My table saw is a Steel City hybrid with a Biesemeyer style fence. On the back of my fence, there is a little foot on a threaded rod that sits on the back rail to support the rear of the fence.

I’d like my out feed table to be fairly tight to the rear of the saw to minimize the chance of catches, better dust control, etc. This would mean removing the foot. I can replace it with UHMW glide strips at the rear of the fence to ride on the saw top, so I’m not that worried.

But I’d like to tap the LJs to see if there is something I’m missing about the rear foot. Its purpose seems obvious and it seems like some fences don’t have one anyway. Is there something I’m missing here or can I just remove this and go about my business?


-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

8 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4408 posts in 3382 days

#1 posted 06-06-2016 03:03 PM

I’ve never had a prob with the standard “foot” setup on my Grizz. The Shop Fox Aluma Classic is the fence.


View dschlic1's profile


324 posts in 1392 days

#2 posted 06-06-2016 05:24 PM

That rear support is just to keep the fence from dragging on the table surface.

View jerryminer's profile


498 posts in 863 days

#3 posted 06-07-2016 03:34 AM

^^ what they said. I don’t know that fence, but the Biesemeyer just uses a plastic pad that rides on the table surface. Works fine.

View JBrow's profile


749 posts in 342 days

#4 posted 06-07-2016 03:44 AM


The rear fence support helps the fence bear the weight of auxiliary fences, etc. mounted to the fence. As long as the rear of the fence is fully supported, I fail to see a problem with modification.

When I made my outfeed table, I beveled the outfeed table edge where it meets the table saw as insurance against catching ends.

View realcowtown_eric's profile


557 posts in 1359 days

#5 posted 06-07-2016 03:47 AM

do you have the little nylon/teflon slide on the end of the threaded rod? you didn’t mention it


-- Real_cowtown_eric

View Mike_D_S's profile


174 posts in 1637 days

#6 posted 06-07-2016 04:04 AM

There is the little nylon glide foot on the end of the support.

But it sounds like the rear support does exactly what I thought it did. Occasionally, I think things are a certain way and I miss some clues. Like the time when I just turned 16 and I put power steering fluid in the brake reservoir (I mean it’s right behind the steering wheel right?). So sometimes it’s worth a double check, especially when it involves sharp spinning items.

I have a whole roll of the UHMW tape they sell at WC that I use for different things. I’ll just install a strip of that on the far side of the fence. It’s only about 1/32” thick, so should take care of the weight distribution without altering the geometry of the fence.

On a side note, I’m planning my new outfeed table along the lines of the shop notes assembly table, so we’ll see how it comes out.

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View MrUnix's profile


4033 posts in 1621 days

#7 posted 06-07-2016 04:10 AM

Traditionally, the rear rail on the Biesemeyer was just there to hold up the extension table, and the fence did not touch it at all. There was a couple of pads on the bottom of the fence that rode on the table top. At some point, they started using that little do-dad on the back of the fence to ride on the rail instead.

There is no reason you can’t put some pads on the bottom of the fence and use it like they used to be, allowing you to essentially ignore the rear rail, or use it for some other purpose such as a mount point for your outfeed table. Anything sufficiently hard/slick would work. The original pads on my older BC50 were what looked like small rectangular pieces of laminate – so run down to the cabinet section of your local BORG and grab a couple of those little laminate sample chips, which work great. Or you can cut some small squares out of old milk jugs (HDPE) and glue ‘em on. Or you can use some of that UHMW self adhesive tape… or….


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Mike_D_S's profile


174 posts in 1637 days

#8 posted 06-07-2016 11:57 AM

Thanks Brad, I like the idea of the laminate chips. Then I could bevel the edges to improve sliding.

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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